orion_sonya

Hola fellow sport wankers, Most of the fixed draws at WWI have been replaced today along with the worst of the old bolts and chain link hangers. If anyone had project draws or fixed draws that they want back send me a PM. If I don't hear from you prior to spring, the salvageable goods will be used for cluttering some other back woods crag. Orion

Maybe I do pick the wrong resorts...It definitely has not been my experience that only a select few are off the hook shit holes on the weekends. We must really travel different paths since I rarely encounter hordes of "douches" while I am touring. I give. Your penis is bigger. For $140 a night, I'd head north to Canada from Seattle. Definitely a longer drive to inland BC, but much better mountains than Hood. If you haven't been Revelstoke, Fernie or Nelson are all awesome. Classy guy, I would have guessed you for a taker not a giver... I agree though, from Seattle I would head north or ski local. Mt Hood is not worth the commute or lodging expense. Red Mountain and Schweitzer are two other good resorts to add to Mr. Conway's list.

Maybe I do pick the wrong resorts...It definitely has not been my experience that only a select few are off the hook shit holes on the weekends. We must really travel different paths since I rarely encounter hordes of "douches" while I am touring.

+1 The truth has been spoken...

If it is cold enough, I would split my riding time between meadows and ski bowl. Head up to timberline for dinner one night - the lodge and summer camps are the redeeming qualities that timberline offers imo. The Mount Hood Inn (Best Western)in Government Camp is an OK place to stay and has the pub right downstairs. I wouldn't say it is cheap though - bet it is 100-150/night. Maybe someone else can chime in on a better deal for lodging/tickets. If you ski MHM excusively, staying near Hood River is an option or at Cooper Spur.

if you are taller than 5'6" or so and not a girl, just do the big move. Rudy's beta is spot on for the midgets though :kisss:

M, You should get a hold of Josh. O

I have the 32L BD anarchist with the avalung and have been very happy with it. It is very simple and fits me well. The features I appreciate are top loading with lid side zip access external shovel/probe pocket decently light I agree A 30L pack is IMO the best one size pack for touring. Plenty of room for an extra jacket, food, light rope,... but can be compressed for less gear. The avalung is integrated nicely and I think I would end up not bringing it if I had to pack it separately. I am a skier so I can't comment on it's usability for snowboarding. Side note: I find the push back against avalungs a little curious. I certainly haven't used it and would like not to, but the same goes for my transceiver and almost no one thinks it is a good idea to head out with no transceiver. My guess is soon enough they will become standard equipment. Orion

does a single note played sincerely and ignorantly beat a symphony of notes that you don't care to listen to? really, who doesn't like native American drumming? side note: B and D got our new si draws - you up for the work party?!

I don't believe that leave no trace exists. Most sport climbing jives fine enough with me for leave little trace. What are the outdoor sports that qualify to compare it to? Motorcycle riding? Snowmobiling? Mountain biking? Hiking? Hunting? Yachting? NASCAR? Beach Volleyball? Did you really mean sports? Look, sport climbing has more impact than some other kinds of climbing mostly because it is so popular. And it is popular because it is fun and relatively safe. I personally think that is ok. The impact to the environment is small relative to the enjoyment that we as sport climbers get. I understand you don't feel the same way and as far as I can tell don't believe in relative truths, but I am comforted to know that there are many, many places left in the world and in our area to have a solitary, no bolt climbing experience that you and I and others appreciate and seek out. And many of these places that have that non-sport climbing experience are protected both naturally due to logistics as well as legally through national parks and wilderness areas. It is true that you will not be able to have that experience anywhere you want and it may take more work than sport climbing, but that is the cost of being in the minority - tyranny of the majority you know...

Not sure if you have seen this... But sky valley is a good guide and definitely has a few more routes in it.

That looks great - thanks for the stoke and the great pictures!

If you came in under lookout point from the main gully near the insect wall, you didn't walk by Private Idaho, but you probably did hike right by Peanuts to Serve You. That route starts off the trail on a ledge that requires a little brush scramble to start and is easy to miss. But if you were hiking under lookout point moving east to west, then yes, you probably walked by Private Idaho. The trails are a little convoluted up there but I think Darryl's or the Cummin's guide has them pretty well mapped. Trail Map

I would be interested in knowing more about that route too; I couldn't keep my eyes off that steep wall to the left. The big corner of Hell Bent for Glory looked intriguing as well...

It was good to briefly meet you two and we appreciated the gear beta. Sonya and I took the rest of the afternoon to get up that thing! Ahh Index grades, you have got to love them ... and it was cool temps even. Sonya and I agree the route was fun and worthy of a repeat. Protection bolts had all been upgraded to stainless and the natural protection was all good providing you had enough small cams and nuts. Also, for an upper wall route, it was pretty clean but there were some rough spots - the first pitch crux traverse looked to have a recent scrub, but the upper dihedral was a little grassy and there was a tree that was interesting to navigate. Nice pictures and nice TR - thanks! Orion

So what's the skinny?

I think the original name is 'Snapper'. My favorite of the more recent names is 'Debate Club'.

If your belayer is on the upper ledge - maybe. Or take the victory whip instead of clipping the chains.

Zeke's Wall has a handful of sport climbs, but it is not a sport crag - you would be disappointed to be up there with no rack. There are a few other sport crags off of highway 2, but unless you have ticked off the Index classics, your best bet is to stick with the Upper and Lower Town Wall. My TL to you... **Country -Cunning Stunt -Climax Control -Wham -Kite Flying Blind -Little Jupiter **Blues Cliff **Upper Wall Multi-pitch Sports Climbs -Heaven's Gate -Golden Road -Tempichuous **Ear Wax -Sideshow -Everest Without Lycra -Raggedy Anne hopefully I am remembering route names correctly

you probably found this... but fwiw...linky

There are a hand full of good ones around Portland...

Definitely a fun line. Jumped on it early in the season and there was no sign of a hornets nest. We were able to do two raps from the top with a 70M rope - p3 to p2 to ground. The last rap put us on a ledge that required easy scrambling down some downed trees/boulders. We did the left line and although it was scruffy at the start, climbed pretty and protected nicely. A #5 WC was really useful to walk up the wide crack, but there are other gear options if you don't have a big piece. This pitch could use a little brush love though... The line to the right looked from too. It's nice to have options. Orion

Nice Job Jesse and Mark - proud...

Fromage, I suspect your estimation is accurate, but I thought I might as well try. I will take your advice and try to broaden the scope of outreach and look into the Rap Wall thread. Also, my intentions are more to mitigate further friction than to get my gear back - although that would be nice too... Thanks

Thanks everyone for the comments. The loss of gear is inconvenient, but replaceable. I think there is enough collective motivation among the developers to not let it slow us down too much. Also, no one yet has contacted me and I haven not learned anything more about the motivation or intentions of the mystery vigilante or perhaps bandit. So, another invitation, if email or phones do not suite you, I will be at the cliff this weekend and you are welcome to meet me there. Thanks again, Orion