orion_sonya

Aren't you suppose to be playing with electricity? And, are you referring to Reptiles or Jug or not? both are the best routes there. I will go ahead and fix some draws. good idea. I know you're being sarcastic - hope so at least - but how about replacing those wierd Burdo bolt/anchor things where he cut grooves in the rock to avoid buying a bolt hanger? Those things have seen a LOT of traffic over the years. I would hate to see someone take a real lead fall on one. That is a good idea and I know I have flaked on you getting up there to make it happen. That said every time I have pulled one of the old chain hangers and bolt, I am surprised how well the bolt/cone and sleeve has held up. They are weird though and I would like to get rid of all of them at some point.

Aren't you suppose to be playing with electricity? And, are you referring to Reptiles or Jug or not? both are the best routes there. I will go ahead and fix some draws. good idea.

exactly, hang some more draws and keep climbing.

Were you up there when they were taken? Bummer about your draws, hopefully you get them back.

Ha, it didn't seem like he asked if people would welcome his dog at city of rocks but rather if City of Rocks is suitable to bring a dog. We have not had any problems bringing our mutt there. It can get hot and there are bunnies to chase. Orion

The more I think about it the more I remember a little excitement on the top... Good on ya for scrubbin - thanks!

That is a great route. Isn't there a large ramp/ledge where the bolts space out?

Very very nice; well done.

I think that route is DGS. Darryl's site has beta for it. There is also a thread on that site regarding Dana's arch. edit: I agree Rattle Tail and Private Idaho all have a good selection of 5.10 and easier.

That is a nice find CC . What was it on top of?

Hi, Thanks for the feedback. Have you gone up and checked them out or do you think they stand out based on the picture in the thread? I personally think they are not any more obtrusive than what was there before. That said, a coat of gray paint on them would be fine by me. Perhaps when I heal up sufficiently to hike back up there I will haul a can of paint up... Orion

that video is terrifying!!!

Did she really get laid at taco bell? edit: that sounds like a suck fall...

Where/When did Kate Rutheford take a 100ft fall? I liked the video. 50ft+ fall are definitely big whippers in my book. I need to head down to Beacon and watch the action; I've heard 50 footers are no big deal there.

Is the route free-able?

I've heard, and seen from topos, that it isn't just a straight bolt ladder sport climb and needs some extra gear. Yes? No? I think he is talking about his pre-bolted ascent.

They were replaced with long draws, very long draws.

ahh summer. thanks for the pictures.

Thanks Micah - We did replace the fixed draws on all of those routes, so i may have your draws in the mega pile of tat. Let me know if you want to arrange a time to look through it. Orion

Yes, I meant on Saturday we primarily replaced hardware as opposed to adding hardware. I have only been climbing at Si for 6 or 7 years, but the amount of fixed draws is about the same as is has always been during that time. I am not sure what to tell you about the beer... I am pretty sure there is no DNR rules against alcohol there. I will check it out though as I do enjoy having a beer for the hike out.

I am not sure if you were trying to imply this or not, but I just want to clarify one thing. For the most part, no additional fixed draws were added. Mostly it was a remove and replace operation. Carry on... Orion

I also partake in the nylon jug at times, so I initially shared your concern regarding grabbing draws. But, I have been pleasantly surprised at how tacky the rubber feels even with a sweaty hand. Time will tell how they perform though as the rubber ages and gets people's grimy, sweaty, chalky hand funk on them. I hadn't considered rodeo clipping, but i would think they would work OK. The gates are actually aluminum, so the action is pretty smooth. That in addition to the extra mass from the steal body, I would think they would rodeo clip even better than a traditional draw.

Thanks for sharing your perspective. I look forward to discussing it with you at the crag sometime. Cheers, Orion

Hmm, I am not entirely sure we got to that one! We are scheduling a follow-up day this winter to tie up lose ends and I will make sure that gets attention if it didn't this weekend. Orion

Yup, those are the ones. A big thanks to Climbtech who gave us a sweet deal on their Perma-draws as well as the folks who donated their time and money to the cause.