NTM

Rad, after having worked the route on TR or bolt to bolt on lead, then move towards this. One of the ways it helps is to break the route into sections and then train yourself physically and mentally to climb through each bit. Often, people will fall mid-crux time after time and there is a mental block that is created, i.e. "this crux is way too hard, no way im going to send this" when the truth is that you can do the moves. I do virtually the same thing, but instead of going top down, I go to the last bolt before the place I am falling, rest, then climb through the sequence to the top

what's the best approach for this route? up towards burgundy col, then bust right from the knoll?

I'm going to try to follow this routine from Sonnie Trotter and see if it helps: http://sonnietrotter.com/2009/05/01/xfittoughcowboy/

i was beginning to think i was the only one thinking this, troggie... brett, if you do plan on replacing some of the old fixed draws out there, i'd be happy to donate a few of mine to the cause.

if it were dead vert perfect hands before and after i would say .10-, if it went on like that for 30m (up, out, up, out) i would rate it .11-

super cold over there. it hasnt gone above freezing since it was cold on the west side. i just talked to my dad (who has no climbing experience)and he said there are a lot of thin blue ice bands all over the face. im not there but if i had to guess, it would be brittle and thin.

If anyone has any way to get in touch with squid, I need to talk to him asap. please either pm me his info or get my info via pm and have him contact me asap. This is important. Thanks.

It depends on how badly you want to send it. I have a friend who tried a route for an entire season, then took a season off from it just to stay sane, then got back on it the 3rd season and sent it mid-way through that. On the other hand, I have tried some routes that seem like something I am interested in linking up and after several tries, realized that I would get more climbing in if I just let it go. If it's truly important to you, train more. If it's a mental and physical drain, let it go.

i like pete's eggnest, about 10 blocks north of mae's as an alternative for b-fast, although voula's is my greasy spoon of choice. the traveler on leary ave that opened about a month ago is a bit overpriced for most things, but the sweet potato fries with chipotle aoli hit the freakin spot!

John, you going to make it up with a PDX posse?

yes, acopas are totallyfuckingawesome.com i have had many pairs and wear through them until they are no longer useful. if i remember correctly, if you order them online and they dont fit, you can just mail them back to re-size. also, i emailed john when i wanted to try a different model, gave him my street shoe size, he emailed me back with the correct size for that shoe and they were spot on. i also think that climb max down in pdx has them if yorue ever there and somewhere in oly reportedly has some acopas

The food at Maritime is pretty good too. I dig the L'il Mahis. the isn't half bad either

I've really liked La Isla on 24th and Market in Ballard. The Dish for breakfast food on Leary.

Memorial For Ryan Triplett 1977-2008 Sunday, September 14, 4-6pm Amphitheater @ Volunteer Park (North of the Reservoir) Come help celebrate Ryan’s life with friends and family this Sunday @ Volunteer Park on Capitol Hill. There will be a slide show, Ryan’s favorite music, and a small group of speakers sharing thoughts or reading selections that honor Ryan’s commitment to living each day to its fullest. After the memorial, we’ll walk down to the Canterbury to share a few beers and memories. Things to bring: Blankets & chairs Pictures of Ryan to paste into a memory book for his family Donations: for a small memorial to be placed near one of Ryan’s favorite crags, or for the Ryan Triplett Memorial Fund, managed by the Access Fund. You can also donate to the Ryan Triplett Memorial Fund online, through the following link: https://www.accessfund.org/secure/giving.php Please include Ryan's name in the "Recipient Information" section below where you enter your billing address. If you prefer to send your donation, please make checks payable to The Access Fund and mail to The Access Fund, PO Box 17010, Boulder CO 80301. Ryan Triplett Memorial Fund should be included on the memo line or with an enclosed note. Ryan's family will be notified of your donation.

Patrick, Thanks for the great write-up. I feel lucky to have known Ryan and been able to climb with him. As you said, his motivation was endless and he was a constant source of inspiration to me. -Jeremy

The Hills is the only show I make sure I am home to watch. There is no other show on TV that amuses me as much as this one.

that just made my day. thank you.

I think the Trango is the best kid's harness out there...

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Going out for my first training ride of the year. Anyone else going to race this fall? A little stoke: H_W8AsilPMM

an amusing blog post given the discussion in this thread about commuting: http://bikesnobnyc.blogspot.com/2008/07/indignity-of-commuting-by-bicycle.html

http://www.marmotmountain.com/MMWmain.asp?Option=Detail&StyleID=11418

Methow Cycle and Sport in Winthrop

sounds pretty close to the race course from the indie series 2 weekends ago: http://www.indieseries.com/map_methowcourse.jpg

cman and I did not bring a dog. maybe a local one?