sweatinoutliquor

I head that the ice coring trip was an adventure... Apparently there were many feet of ice and snow on that lake still. Sounded like a soppy adventure though. What the hell is Oregon's best burger? Nice work

Shitay!

Arrgh... What's the deal? Have any of ye mates spotted what these land dogs be using lately for the gulletspit? bowel openers Alas tis a sad day me maties. Me last trusty rusty blade sailed her final journey to the bottom of the seas in the gullet of the captain of the HMS sensitivo. I be looking for this model but preferabally with more rust. I'm also looking to replace my old trusty pocket knife if you know when I can get one with suficient rust. I especially like the eye spit option shown at lower right...

Arrrgh, Timmy, I vote for Wills. Like the guy? Maybe we could type something like :arghthat'smetypeofpiratebooty: and she would pop up. Sweet! I mean, arrgh! It works!

Those are awesome pictures guys. I hate it when y'all have to go and remind me that not only can you be having a great time climbing, but you can be enjoying what seems to be the best time of the year for backcountry skiing. This theilsen trip seems to be a sweet balance of the two!

How long ago did this happen? Something similar happened to me about a year ago. Didn't seem too bad, and only bothered me on certian holds (like pockets). I stayed off it for a week and iced my hand every now and then. Take some ibuprofin. When I got back on it, I just took it way easy. If anything hurt I stopped. Took about a month to go away. Sounds like you are going to have to use your best judgement as to when you are ready to get back at it. Obviously don't push it, and no lunging for pockets! Good luck!

Ahhh, maybe we saw someone else... Sounds like there was a group of three... We just saw one person, and it was probably too early to have seen the other party if they had left T-line at 5:30.

Crazy! I think we may have seen that guy from high up on the reid headwall! We heard and saw him come scraping down from the Illumination saddle. Didn't make much sense at the time cause it was so early and the snow/ice was super hard. Guess if you were trying to circumnavigate that would explain why he was there, but still seems a bit crazy. Glad he is okay, and a huge to rescuers, who pulled (literally) off what sounds like a really hard rescue!

That's hilarious signed, fucking totally impressed

That's awesome! Schweet photos... I hope I can get in there sometime this spring.

Yes, I think the exit step may have been my favorite part, but the exposure that followed really impressed me too. I was thinking it would spit us out somewhere on the queens chair, so I was pretty suprised to see that the cool part wasn't over yet! I believe that was the bit of steep traversing with all the air under you that would have made me soil myself had we been sans rope. So far it's my favorite hood route, but I hear that in good conditions the North face routes are superior? Anyway, maybe I'll test that theory next fall if the conditions get betta.

My gallery for bigger photos Here is another shot of a group of 3 heading for what I think was the 14a? variation which tops out on the west crater rim. If you guys are reading this I have a few other pics of you traversing if you would like to pm me.

Climb: Hood-Another Reid Report Date of Climb: 5/6/2006 Trip Report: So, I gotta start by saying hell yeah to you guys who have soloed this route (sky, vw, flatnose, and others). That is quite an accomplishment, and I found the route to be harder than I expected. So, my buddy Jason (sparverous?) and I climbed the Reid headwall yesterday under excellent conditions. Firm neve all the way from bottom to top. We brought a 30m rope, 4 pickets, and one screw. In retrospect, a 50m rope and 6 pickets would have been better because we ended up swapping 10(!) running belay leads cause we didn't have much gear and the rope was so short. Placed the screw twice in a couple of bomber WI spots. It was nice to have, especially to protect the short exit gully step. Amazing routefinding through canyons, under towers, etc. The topout above Leutholds is in an amazing position: exposed, steep, and with amazing views of the Upper Buttress of Y-ridge. No pic, I got sick of taking camara batteries out to unthaw. Here are the pics: Climberz approaching Leutholds Cool clouds over the Reid glacier Jason under some Reid towers Jason at a belay early on the route Jason approaching the short exit step (fun!) Gear Notes: 30m rope (shoulda had 50?), 4 pickets (shoulda had 6?), one ice screw (handy and sufficient given conditions) Approach Notes: Skis to top of lifts... Only way to go.

Photo of Hammer Version

Thanks for sharing that. Glad your okay!

Very good read + photos. Crazy shit for sure.

I would say that "said ice" would be getting rotten and sketch after another month or so, assuming that it stays sunnyish and warm like it has been. It's also likely that "said ice" could be buried in "said snow" making it not the best icy year, but a great snow year. While those routes Chris described are (supposedly) quite good when cold and snow covered, they can become ugly rock/ice/snow fall chutes as the snow starts to melt off... In my opinion, the best time to get to dem sistas is sooner then later...

Nice dude! We dodged crowds this weekend by heading up Stander (sp?) ridge. Lot's of fun and short easy - moderate stuff up there! Didn't see a soul until 4 in the afternoon when we worked our way down to adit rock. Fun to get away from the masses though! Koala is also on the list for some busy weekend day.

Conditions better this year or last? We were sitting in the parking lot (planning on reid also) and whimped out cause of the wind, but it would have been funny to run into you up there again! Guess your more hardcore than us! Ended up going to smith instead, which worked out okay, but wasn't what we really hoped to accomplish with this "nice" weather.

Great report fellas, and nice photos! That route looks like a lot of fun when the conditions are in!

blow dartz

http://www.backcountry.com/store/BLD0826/c5/s54/Black-Diamond-Venom-Hammer.html Seems to be what you are talking about

I die at 34 in the same chimp uprising that claims RojerJ. But how come he get's to live till 92? Maybe the uprising happens 7 years from now, and he has to go into exile for the next 60 some odd years?

Ummm... What happened to no interesting variations? Personally, I would say skip out on the cooper spur. You are going to have to swing some sort of obnoxious car shuttle, and have a longer than average approach. If you want to go up a different way than down, why not climb wy-east, leutholds, reid, west crater rim, etc? All of which don't require a shuttle, will get you away from the standard crowds, and are more technically appealing. Just my $0.02... Go for it, but if you are going over to that side of the mountain, I would say hit sunshine, north face, etc... I'm also biased cause for some reason cooper spur scares me. ~Nate

PS. I have been with at least 3 groups who have recieved tickets a T-line for not having their snowpark permit. I would say get one. If it's still necessary, I would bet there is someone who is gonna check, especially on a saturday. even though the sign that says you need one is buried under a snowbank ()