sweatinoutliquor

Garmin RINO 530! It only costs, like, 6 million dollars, but shit, it's got a built in 10 mile radio and picks up weather channels. Color display. Huge memory. Barometric altimeter. Etc etc. Sure it's awesome. Right for you? Unless your in the "wealthy" category I doubt it. Maybe kinda heavy. I dunno, I want one, but they cost what I make in a month. ~Natro

Whoa! Glad you guys made it out! Bummer of a night in a cave I'm sure!

Gosh those pics are great!

Burley... I went up to solo that 3ish months ago and the crack was filled with ice. I threw out a big "f that" and kept going. Maybe interesting in crampons though? I would say sure 5.4 when it's all dry, but each time I've been up it always been moist and seems harder that 5.4. At least that first bit. Any pics? ~Nate

Great Photos guys! Looks like a great trip! Thanks for posting! ~Nate

What is her hand resting on here?

Good luck up there if you go! Make sure you know the best way off that beast! These dudes were pretty lucky in last year's attempt! link!

Any purdy pics? Sounds like a fun workout!

Oh my! Great pics! Crevasse fall didn't actually sound all that sweet. Glad you made it out okay! Did you freak out a bit after you fell in, or were you pretty calm? How did you get out? I'm not looking forward to know what that stomach dropping out feeling is like. Anyway, again, thanks for sharing, I'm glad your okay! ~Nate

I wanna say they are right behind our flying friend Shawn.

I'm jealous dude... Great job, and hey screw it, I like the photos! They show it like it is, which looked dark, solo, and pretty awesome. Looks like you made pretty good time up there as well. Thanks again for posting the writeup!

Yet another trip report that is making me kick myself for not leaving the office this weekend! Great photos! Looks like a schweet spot to camp! Thanks again for the TR!

Looks like fun! Thanks for the report! forweezer to get back to your car you can descend either cooper spur, sunshine, or the easiest is the standard south side route, but that involves a mandatory car shuttle (unless you want to hike an eatra 12 miles or something like that).

Goddamn you no questions in the TR forum!!! Just kidding of course! Eugene is a cool town dude. Pretty alternative, but lot's of folks like it. As for climbing, I dunno where you are coming from, but ice climbing is certianly not something that the area is famous for. You can find some mixed stuff if the conditions are right, and on the north side of hood there are a few pretty amazing ice lines. Area is better for proximity to Smith Rock (3 hours) and for alpine routes in the Cascades. For the most part forget the oregon coast or coast range. Sure there are a few chossy gems, but nothing to write home and tell your parents about. You do have the Columns, or skinner butte, right there in town, which supposedly is an okay spot to stay in shape (basalt columns, single pitch if that, small area). You will be within 2 hours of a few intersting Cascades mossy gems such as Flagstone. So yeah, I dunno, it's not a bad area if you don't mind spending 2 hours in the car. Wait, shit, you coming from NH? That's where I came from. Damn brokofsky, don't expect much granite. The big hills are sick though. ~Nate

Keep in mind that our happy Utah soloist would have to cross two significant glaciers to get to sandy, and I know that sandy does have the potential for deep crevasses... While coverage seems good at this point, I personally wouldn't take the extra risk for a route that doesn't seem to be much harder than leutholds couloir (I'm refering to sandy). Reid is spicy enough to have a great day on. I mean shit, it's your first time in the cascades, and lot's o' folks would think a solo of the reid would be a heck of an initiation. If you really want harder than that you should spend the 2 days and hit the north face. As for weather, I would try NWS Portland, sick!, and of course, the ol' standby weather.com Remember that if the weather is crappy in Government Camp it's more than likely gonna be really crappy up on the hill. Don't waste your time in a storm up there, just go to Smith and climb rocks.

Hmmm... North face is certianly the classic I would say. Problem is getting to it now. I'm sure that the approach is long, and no public transportation really get's you to that trailhead. If you want to do that route you should probably hook it up with a local who is heading up that way (sorry, I can't do anything till I finish my thesis, shit I don't even have a car so what am I talking about). Other options that may be a bit more accessable but slightly less spectacular are the Reid headwall and the Devils Kitchen Headwall, both of which are accessed from the popular Timberline Lodge parking lot high on the south side of the mountain. A search on this site should yield photos and possibly route descriptions. I also recommend getting your hands on a copy of Jeff Thomas' book "Oregon High", which has excellent photos and route descriptions. Maybe at your local public library, or certianly in portland somewhere. Don't expect too much quality water ice on the south side right now... My understanding from the TR's is that lot's of what's up there is good 'ol crumbly rime. Hey, don't forget that if the weather craps out, you can always go to Smith too. Good luck dude, hopefully that helps!

Success!

Can we break over a page of spray before we actually get more details? I'm doing my part...

Nothing to do with this... link ?

You guys looked rad up there... I was scared enough looking down into the cirque with my feet on solid ground!

Climb: Bachelor Summit Photo - Date of Climb: 2/8/2006 Trip Report: Taken from the summit of bachelor yesterday. Not sure who the dude in the paraglider is, but it looked like a lot of fun! Sorry about the huge pic, but whatever, I guess I'm really not sorry. Gear Notes: Should have brought my parachute? Approach Notes: Chairlift

web page ?

That's some sick skiing guys, way to go!

For a second tool get something with a hammer rather than an adze. If you think that there is a chance that you may at some point want to get into more technical ice climbing, then consider getting the hammer version of a nice tool set (example petzl quark or aztar with hammer). It's gonna be more expensive for a nice technical tool, but then if you do choose to try some 2 tool climbing, you only have to pay for the other one, rather than a whole set. Chriz's route suggestions are great! Lot's o' people say that curved shaft tools aren't idea for alpine stuff cause the shafts don't plunge as well as a straight tool, but I have found that my quark plunges quite well, and in general, if I'm climbing softer stuff where I'm doing a lot of plunging, the second tool isn't out so much. Good luck!

Sweet link of me and my friends playing add on.