pup_on_the_mountain

Any one been up these routes recently? Any updates would be great. Pics showing the conditions would be even better. TIA.

Awesome job and great pics!!! :tup:

I've to be in Calgary on Friday, July 27, till around noon, and then have to be back there on Monday (July 30) by 2 pm. I'd like to get some climbing in the Canadian Rockies in between. I've been to Banff/Canmore/Parkway for ice climbing the last three winters, but have not done any alpine routes yet. Was eyeing some classic lines such as Athabasca NF subject to conditions or other routes of similar technical difficulties; but am also open to suggestions. Any one interested in hooking up? I'll be driving to Calgary with all my gear, and hence could meet you wherever. FYI Seattle homies.. Alaska has RT non-stop flights to Calgary for $256

Good job and nice TR! Looks like a fun climb indeed.

You lazy bum ! Approach is same as that for NR and Adams Glacier (Killen Creek TH). There are detailed driving directions in this thread. If you want more details, check this set of directions from Google Maps. The route is on the climber's left of NR. You top out more or less on the expansive summit plateau. Descend the NR. There is another less popular climb called Stormy Monday Couloir between the NR and Adams Glacier. Lava Glacier headwall is covered in Nelson's guide, Vol 2 as well.

Good job Rob! Looks like you're getting out quite a bit.. keep it up!

Awesome job!! :tup:

Its only a half-mile of extra walking to the Killen Creek trailhead as per this TR from a week back. You guys should be able to do it in a day.

Good job! Calm down dude... you can go somewhere else safer for practice.

Those are some awesome pics on your web page. Thanks much for sharing!!

Trip: Mt Daniel - Veggie burrito de Mundo, Daniel Glacier style Date: 6/22/2007 Trip Report: Here's the recipe for the most awesome veggie burrito you can ever have! Gear: crimini mushrooms - full in a Snowpeak 700 ml cup; sliced 1 bell pepper, diced small 1/2 onion sliced 1 roma tomato sliced spices - 1/2 tsp each of cumin powder, coriander powder; and a pinch of gound cloves (a pinch of asafoetida if you have it ) 1/2 clove garlic, crushed whole wheat tortillas 2-3. cheese - smoked Gouda or extra sharp cheddar salsa verde sambhal Oelek (Rooster sauce) - optional; for the brave souls essentials: butter, olive oil, salt, pepper. The Approach: Saute the mushrooms in a thick-bottomed saucepan in 1 tbsp of butter and 1 tbsp of olive oil under medium high heat until brown. Set the mushrooms aside. In the remaining oil/butter, saute the onions and bell pepper for 3-4 minutes. Add the spices, salt to taste, and crushed garlic. Add a little bit of water to make the sauce, put the mushrooms back in the mix, and cook for another minute. Add herbs if desired to top it off (chives or thyme work well). Sprinkle a pinch of salt on the wheat tortillas. Place appropriate amounts of diced tomatoes, extra onions if desired, cheese, 2 tbsps of mushroom curry, one tsp of salsa verde, pinch of rooster sauce to spice it up (wimps can use crushed black pepper instead), and wrap it up in a piece of aluminium foil, and keep it safe in your backpack. Make the burritos the night before you leave for the climb. Note: Vegans can replace the cheese with boiled rice. The climb: Take a day off work (or call in sick last-minute). Pick your day carefully - you should NOT expect perfect weather. Go do Mt Daniel via Daniel glacier with a friend as a day trip. Enjoy your delicious veggie burrito de mundo after the summit scramble!! Here are some pictures. Filling up water at Peggy's pond. It was cloudy and gloomy till that point: It started to clear out a bit on and off though: Clouds are back at the exit to Daniel Glacier: Approaching the summit: It was blowing pretty bad on the summit even as we made our way back... but it cleared out on the South side! Cathedral Rock: This is the Nepali "TNF" pack that my buddy got several years back at Namche Bazaar for $20-odd. Its time for a new pack: All in all, a fun day out to eat the veggie burrito de Mundo!! Gear Notes: We roped up for the glacier on the way up, but found it really mellow. So, we did not rope up on the way back. Approach Notes: Trucks and other high clearance vehicles are AID!

I think we might've met you on the trail on Friday. We were the group of two (Indian) guys coming down. You talked to us about Lasik... We had a fun day as well. We walked the road up and down. It was the first climb in the Cascades for my friend - a good intro climb, complete with the extra road walk .

Thanks for the updates. Phew. . Yet another climb that has a bunch of road to walk this year. Mmmmm... Cascades!!

Does anyone know whether the road (NF 4330) is drivable all the way to the Hyas Lake-Deception pass trail-head? Are there any washouts? 4WD/high clearance required? TIA!

Thanks guys! From what you said (slogon), it should be right on the side of the road - just not marked on the USGS topo.

We (Sudipta and I) are postponing our plans as well (we were thinking of one of the routes on the North side). The forecast is iffy enough for the 6+ odd hours of driving (for me) to reconsider. Plus, we might be able to call in sick during the coming week . If anybody goes up there this weekend, condition updates would be much appreciated! BTW, folks at the ranger station said 2329 is drivable up to Keenes Horse Camp (taking the directions given by Paul_K above). Google maps will give you the same directions if you search for "NF 120 WA" (say, from Randle). At the same time, I couldn't find Keenes Horse Camp on the USGS topo. I'm looking at the Green Mountain quad (the one right above Mt Adams West). Horseshoe lake and campground are listed. Just above that, they list a Spring Lake campground. Is this the same as Keenes Horse Camp? In any case, it looks like a 1-1.5 mile trek (at most) to the trailhead, so shouldn't be bad I suppose.

Depending on the weather, my friend from the West side (Redmond) and I (from far East - Pullman) are planning to get to Mt Adams (North side) for the weekend. We are planning on meeting at Yakima tomorrow (Friday) night and driving together in one car from there (to sort of even out the driving distance for both of us). Is there a safe place in or near Yakima where I can leave my car for the weekend? TIA.

Thanks for the comparison data Mark! Very useful indeed.

Good work dude! Looks like you had a fun time.

Those snowshoes might be the ones left by this party. Edited to add: Hmmm.. so there are several pairs of snowshoes up for grabs I suppose.

Okay.. this is not my hand(s), but a rock bigger than a bowling ball crushed by little toe at the base of what turned out to be my last rock climb last summer. I climbed through the pain in fall, and in fact there was some pain well into the ice season.

"It was quite icy, but at least we had only one axe!" Good work!!

Hell yeah!!! Fuck'n Awesome :tup: .

Okay.. I don't know whether I can come out any nicer. Good to know you had fun up there, but, honestly, I'm more happy that you made it back without killing yourselves. In fact, I have the same feeling every time you post a TR. If you sincerely want to find experienced partners to do climbing with, deeds such as this one (and posts such as this one) are not going to help you. The common theme in most of your TRs has been "it was looking tough and dangerous, but I still did it. I'm a stud". You have more of the same theme in this TR. Most climbers would instantly dismiss you as being "crazy and stupid" after reading your TRs, and would think hard many times before climbing with you. On the other hand, if you change the theme of your posts to "it looked dangerous, and so I decided to back off", you will find many people to climb with. For instance, If you had gone all the way to the base of the summit block, and decided not to climb that choss-pile, people would think "this dude has made a good decision". In the same way, if you had said "it looked rocky and dangerous to glissade, and so I plunged down", people would've loved you. Unfortunately, free soloing chossy 5.2 does not make you a climbing stud. On the other hand, you could've died trying to get off that summit block. Similarly, glissading shitty 45 degree snow weaving your way through rocks also does not make you a climbing stud, but you could've hurt yourselves hitting a piece of rock. Its good to know that you have adequate control to weave through rocks when glissading, and you can free-solo 5.2 rock. At the same time, you would've won more praises if you had shown the presence of mind to decide not to do these things, despite knowing you do have the ability to do them. If you haven't read it yet, read this TR. Ryan has many years of experience climbing and skiing, and is real good at them as well. Think a little about how and why he turned back. The day you post a TR where you say "I turned back because it looked iffy", you'll find many climbing partners. You can get farther and higher with these partners.

Thanks for asking, but its more or less the same as what it was before . I have gotten a new chair to position me better in front of my computer at work, and started using a wrist guard with a splint. The wrist guard is not perfect though - the split goes from inside my palm over to my forearm. It might be better if I can splint the side of my hand instead. I couldn't find a wrist guard that immobilizes that sideways movement (think about moving your mouse left to right on the mousepad while keeping your elbow more or less fixed). I'm doing high-rep exercises to strengthen related muscle groups. May be it'll get better in a few weeks. Technical climbing is out for a while I suppose .