Just a quick update on the conditions: the runnels were not in as on Sunday. A strong team couldn't make it up, and we decided to take the
bypass rather than wait to be the third in line to try the runnels. Ultimately, all four teams took the bypass. There was a small patch of ice at
the entrance of the route, and a smear here and there on the bypass, and again on the exit pitch out of the second couloir. We could not
place any screws though. One of the teams dislodged a huge block that was loose just before where the rap anchor to drop down to the
second couloir is. This block was a disaster waiting to happen, and luckily, no damage was done.
It would've been more fun had the runnels been in, but the route is in good shape otherwise.
PS: I'm trying to get pics from the others - may be a TR will follow then.