jmace
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Everything posted by jmace
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[TR] Wedge Mt.- NE arete 9/19/2004
jmace replied to fear_and_greed's topic in British Columbia/Canada
hey how did you put that photo in there, I cant seem to right click and find the properties on the larger size photo, only the thumbnail allows me to do that? works now!! Untill I figure it out, heres a shot of the NW ridge of joffre last weekend,I cant say I wasn't told that there was snow every where, but I'm glad I stayed away from any glaciers. Shortly after this picture was taken I watched the entire NW face of Matier cut loose, quite impressive. That being said, on Wednesday the freezing level shot up to 3000m and it has stayed that way and will continue to stay that way for the weekend. Looking at the whistler cams shows absolutley no snow, this weekend looks good for one more stab at some alpine climbing!!! I should probably bail on Skaha and go be a real man in the mountains, oh what to do? -
As MattP said Pressure and altitude do not have a linear relationship, they more or less have a exponential relationship. Therefore using the ideal gas law as Gary suggests wont really work at altitude. What density would you use? What about liquid and water vapour in the air...?What you want is the hypsometric eqaution. This gives you everything you need including liquid and vapour water loading effects on density. Ill leave it you to search out the eqn if you like, its quite simple.
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Climate is very interesting, just like the oceans we are very far away from a complete undeterstanding. Thanks for the article Lowell I love this stuff Jesse
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There was just some cool air from the North it snowed 20cm + in Fort St John, 22c is the high for tomorrow in Edmonton, it will be fine.
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I usually use a wired nut, just push the nut up the wire a bit then slide the wire over the loose bolt cinch the nut down and twist till its tight.
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First of all all of those sites use computer generated icons, even environment canada. The computer chooses what icons to display based on what the forecaster types in, the forecaster also only can type a few words in to the bottom of the space. Second winter time, forecasters can only forecast 3-5 days out with any sucess, summer you can take that to 5-7 tops!!!!! Here on the coast. As bogen says take a look ot the sattelite, that will give you look at whats out there then have a look at the jet stream current and the forecast that will help you in deciding where the storm will travel. As well you will be able to see if there is any ridging in the forecast which will block weather and promote clear skies. Or pay a couple of bucks and phone the professionals for a personal forecast, if your climbing in canada phone Environment Canada and get the goods otherwise keep on looking at crappy websites that are meant for mommies wondering if they should pack a rain coat for their kids.
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What influences the weather there? The Rockies, Stuff from the Pacific? Yep. Stuff from the Arctic? Yep. Are there any general insights, like sucky weather here means sucky weather there two days later? Pretty much, hence the reason its easier to forecast weather down the line since we can tell them whats happeing and give detailed weather data unlike here on the coast where we have no one to tell us whats going on out on the Pacific.
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SO Ivan is the next hurricane on the radar, what happened to Georges and Hermine? anyone know?
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Taking care of himself and his buddies, making some cash. Why is that so hard for people to understand?
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Condition of Ice face on North Ridge of Forbidden?
jmace replied to The_Inscrutable_Gargoyle's topic in North Cascades
Juan, first realize I am in no way attacking you or your opinion just having a discussion, im sure you havent taken anything personally. "We have a serious global problem on our collective hands." That statement is what got me going, it seems as though you are declaring yourself an expert and have decided that global warming is caused by humans and needs to be stopped by humans. "Whether it is a normal climactic change that is naturally in fast motion, or one that we are speeding up by our actions and inactions, or both, it is still not good for life here on earth" This is more reasonable, a lot of qeustions need to be answered before we can honestly say we have a serious climactic change that needs to be curbed by humans. J -
Condition of Ice face on North Ridge of Forbidden?
jmace replied to The_Inscrutable_Gargoyle's topic in North Cascades
"I agree with Lowell that getting down to bare ice, as is the case in so many places now, suggests a large-scale problem." A problem for who? Climbers, thats it. I have been following what has been going on with the rest of the world and yes it is sad that our RECREATION activities are being messed with. I just think that because we have had a few years of some warmer weather everyone wants to jump on some global warming doomsday forecast. its much too soon to predict this,we cant even predict this weekends weather right. What happens if this warming trend is normal, this may be the next path the earth goes down, probably better than another ice age. Unfortunatley we dont control this and this is the problem people have, along with change people just cant accept it. You might as well get over it,the earth will change, climate will change,and hopefully humans will be able to adapt quickly enough. If you want something to worry about why not worry about our water supply and how we pollute it, I'm sure no clean water will kill us off way before it gets too warm out, maybe will have to harvest the remaing glaciers just to drink, then for sure no climbing. Just my 0.02 J -
Condition of Ice face on North Ridge of Forbidden?
jmace replied to The_Inscrutable_Gargoyle's topic in North Cascades
We have a serious global problem on our collective hands. why? Cause we have had a couple of warm summers? -
BC Mountain Weather Forecast available online?
jmace replied to payaso's topic in British Columbia/Canada
This link will give you a freezing level, if thats all your after. E.C. stopped giving detailed forecasts after they realized that the general population doesn actually use that info, too bad. http://www.snow-forecast.com/maps/van_3days.php If your looking for more detailed info you will have to become your own forecaster, Don Serl gives an idea on how to detrmine freezing levels in a post in the ice climbing forum about Lillooet temps and calulating nearby temps at higher elevations. when you get to the site, click on the temperature maps. -
"a strip club porn? pffft! i just had my first encounter with a strip club recently and all i can say is that i was/am disappointed in the overall experiece. i even fell asleep as the entertainment was anything but." You know thats the first sign eh? Might wanna immerse yourself with some more naked women to counter any effects that might be going on. Really gotta watch what you eat, definetly no quiche!!! Good Luck
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I dont think much will be burning after this weekend.
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I suppose you havent checked the weather forecast, possibly may want to stay away from squish this weekend.
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BC snow/ice alpine routes (fall/early winter?)
jmace replied to Chad_A's topic in British Columbia/Canada
I wonder if this new "whitecap" fire is totally ruining any chances of ever getting in there or maybe its clearing out all the bush. Does any one know if the fire is any where near the acess to N face of whitecap? -
left car at 7 arived at dark, so 2- 3 hours to lake approx. Then left lake at 6 and were climbing by 8:45, couple of hours from lake to base. so about 4-5 hour approach, seems like thats about right. I think the guide qoutes about an hour from rugged lake to the base of the face which appears to be alittle bit fast for the youngins with the big racks!! Cool to see this route getting done.
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How long from the road did it take you to reach the face? Which side of the river did you go up, did you start across the broken bridge or go up before the broken bridge? 2 parties ahead of you, wow, the place is getting busy!! J
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Thats what I figured, care to add any thing else about it, beta wise. thanks
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Why is it always in the same tray and why does that tray have so many water drops all over it, unlike the one beside it. Is water dripping on it?
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Any one had a look at the N face of Weart recently, or been in the area and wants to specualte on its current condition. Thanks in advance Jesse
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[TR] Joffre- Flavelle-Lane 8/12/2004
jmace replied to glassgowkiss's topic in British Columbia/Canada
that sucks about the central pillar and the Flavelle Lane, I wouldlike to hear any one elses comments about these routes. How did the North face couloirs look, barren or climable? -
ITs Drivable with a H-C 4WD and some skill, the bridge is gone across the river it is however easy to cross, in daylight!!!
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[TR] Boston Basin Area- Torment-Forbidden Traverse 7/25/2004
jmace replied to adrianburke's topic in North Cascades
all you do to put pictures in your post is go to the gallerey click on your picture, large size, right click on the picture,click on properties, copy the link ends in .jpg go bact to your TR next to the gremlins is a link that says image, click on it paste your copied text from the gallerie into the window, hit ok and your done, repeat as many times as you like, if you have a MAC then I dont know how to do it. J
