corvallisclimb

So im off on the time by 10 minutes, sorry. Hand drilling still sucks if you dont have to. No. As usual, you were talking out your ass about something you know nothing about. You're probably off something more like 20-40 minutes, of course you wouldn't know that because you clearly haven't taken the time to actually do it. Hence the reason I am willing to bet $100+ you couldn't. I disagree, hand drilling does not suck. How the hell is he off by that long are you seriously saying it would take 50-70 min to hand drill?? if so you in fact are off.

Thats funny that you mention it because no more than 10 feet to the right of the photos kevbone posted is where the plastic sport route was. It has since been chopped but the scars are still visible.

if they sold chisel tipped 17/64 SDS bits then breaking bits wouldnt be so much of an issue.

chop em... thats on mini half dome? or that area?

Just go buy a power drill! Fuck hand drilling. You might as well take a horse to the crag instead of you car. I guess... I would suggest drilling your first bolts by hand so you can appricate how it used to be done. Then once you feel you can progress to the power drill without over doing it... go for it!

do not hit the drill while twisting, twist then hit. doing that causes the bit to get stuck more, or break if they are weaker bits.

1/2 x 4 inches in basalt? seems overkill unless youve got a power drill and are sponsored by asca... no but really in solid basalt you can get away with 3/8"x2.25" if you have to hand drill.

john- hey i just saw this thread, i have a 4 yr old gas powerd drill that works but needs a new throttle cable installed. id hook you up with the drill for cheap or free. it was used a lot around to sea so some parts look a little rusty but everything seems to work fine. pm me.

I noticed mountaingear.com has a 5.10 resole kit for sale. I'm about to head down to south america and many of my friends have trouble getting new shoes, because its impossible for them to get a resole. Wondering how this kit works, any one used it? Woult it be worth buying or continue bringing down massive shoe orders with me?

I've got a tripod bivy and I really recomend it if your trying to go super light, pleanty of room to roll around and read a book, tho yes getting clothes on and off is a little bit of a challenge. With that said spending 6th months in Patgonia you will find your self in many situations I imagine where you might want a little more. When ever I am alone in Patagonia I usually just sack up and carry a I-tent or Eldorado(the small one can never remember), that or a one of the BD equivelent tents would be awsome. From my personal experinces in Patagonia its always nice to have it a litte plush down there, as you may find your self stuck in it for a while.

seeking someone to climb a secret spire with me, the ascent involves some aid so competence with that would be crucial. pm me as the weathers looking to shape up to be quite nice.

Im in the market for a light-weight backpack good for an over night trip, an alpine ice climb or a day at the crag. what are peoples favorites these days? plus's for me are lots of extra straps and durability.

I will be in patagonia from early dec thru march. I will be in the Puerto Natales area. If you would like some beta on climbing send me a pm including some specifics on where and such. I have spent almost a year living there so I have a little bit of knowledge about the area..

smith is usually in a rain shadow... so when its raining in madras and redmond its dry out at the park. i experince this a lot on those days with that 20-30 percent chance. so hopefully this holds true for you.

your answer might be here... otherwise im sure markd prolbably knows and will chime in.

The upper bolt ladders where re-bolted in 2004. You do have to do some 5.8 ish moves off the sling belay now tho.

fun mellow weekend. thanks timmy for the beer, nice to meet you and some others i hadnt yet met!

i've been working on replacing bolts out at smith with lots of brand new hardware from asca. since i havent had time to climb all routes out there, im looking for input on routes and anchors that still have old 1/4"s or shitty homemade hangers. this also applys for other high traffic areas in oregon, ive got tons of hardware that i would like to put to good use... so post up when you see work that needs to be done. old and new rap anchor from bettes needle on staender ridge

any one up for smith or anywhere else tue-thur? pm me

I dont know, but I cant get in to the gallery either. It shows a blank white page and reads: "Could not connect to User databaseAccess denied for user 'ccthredz2'@'66.33.192.0/255.255.224.0' to database 'threads'"

you will be fine, if some how you couldnt find a spot in the immediate campground you can continue up the dirt road to one of many more secluded spots.

i will show up but im not old enough to drink so dont worry

anyone want to go down to the valley and do a wall? something shorter, prow, ten days after, mideast crisis or reanimator? willing to leave when ever

thinking sometime next week if that narrows things down... im flexable now tho so let me know.