wimsey

Just looked at my notes. We were actually only a bit under 3 hrs not 2.5 hrs,from Pole Creek to summit of N when we did the traverse. Regardless, I doubt 7 hours is the average time.

I know many who are not marathoners or uber anything who've done it in three hours. We did it in 2.5 when we did the traverse and I couldn't run a 3.5 hr marathon if you paid me $500. Don't know about the NE ridge on South but the N ridge, which I thought you were talking about, is class 2.

Assuming you mean N. Ridge South Sister, one can avoid any 4th class by traversing up and right at the red band. Horrible scree but never technically difficult. This is talking about September, of course, when you can go for it in shorts, t-shirt and running shoes. A spring attempt is a whole other ball of wax. Probably not much scree though. This seems a bit slow. North is frequently done from Pole Creek in under 3 hrs. I'm sure it's been done under 2hrs. Are there really people taking 11 hours to summit? Sounds like torture.

who's that leading Gold Standard aka Alchemy? pretty proud lead!

Good to hear about the trailwork. That must have been quite a project.

Pack animal direct?

I'm sure NOLS/OB groups have nothing to do with the trash you see. They usually pick up after others as service. Many camping and living at the grasslands are not climbers.

Re getting a good look at the north ridge of South Sister: We found it hard to see any detail while approaching because it was back lit and lots of glare. There was no missing the ridge but we had no clue how we'd get through the headwall. As it turned out, there was no problem; when we got to the red band, we just went right, then up and right on scree (what else)without any exposed climbing. I think those that are finding South Sister cruxy are taking on the headwall too directly. Concur that North Sister is not bad, even kind of enjoyable in current conditions. Though we must have been off route for parts of the SE ridge (even with full daylight; navigating by headlight must be slow work) because we encountered the most exposed scary climbing of the day along there. Re the traverse as a whole: Ten years ago I hiked South Sister and vowed never "blech, never again". Well, the marathon is ten times sloggier and more scree infested. Yet with an element of challenge and adventure, it was strangely entertaining. Funny how the mind works. Mini TR: Sunday 9/14 pleasant temps, no wind. Left Pole Creek 6:50, summit N 9:45, summit M 11:15, summit S 2:00, arrived Devils Lake 3:30. next time: scree gaiters, more pizza

What is the fastest known time for the marathon, Pole Creek to Devil's Lake? I bet it would go under 7 hours, if it hasn't already.

Central Oregon: I'm planning to bike from Bend up Cascades Lake Highway, climb S. Sister or Broken Top and bike back, fitness outing, guessing about 8 hours. Anyone interested in coming along? This Friday or Sat? I was biking down from Bachelor last Friday and saw a couple guys heading up on bikes with trail shoes bungeed to their camelbacks, so I know you are out there. Open to other adventurous endurance suggestions as well Cheers

On a dogsledding trip in the Boundary Waters of northern Minnesota in 1996, we had 5 days that never got over -20 F. We're not sure how cold it got as our thermometers bottomed out, but a nearby govt weather station recorded -60 F, the coldest official temp ever recorded in Minnesota. Someone's personal thermometer in the area went down to -74 F. I've also been out in -20 F with 40-50mph winds, which was considerably less pleasant. Probably the worst is days and days of +28 to +35 wet snow, sleet and rain.

Unless you think they would enjoy a ride up Zion or Monkey Face, skip Smith and give them a nice peak ascent in WA. The guide scene at Smith is a clusterf*ck and it's not just from too many guides. The quality beginner and intermediate climbs there are few and far between. There are a couple of nice adventure scrambles off the beaten path but for the most part, all of the fun moderates are a toprope factory mill.

Wartleys Revenge feels much easier on repeat. If you climb through the right bits without stopping to place gear, knowing confidently about the upcoming rest stances, it's more like a mid 5.10 than 11b.

best in lower gorge: cry of the poor last chance badfinger etc etc etc pretty effing great and no chalk (personal favs) bold line lion of judah southern cross night shift full court press soft touch (cause i like one star routes that are better than Moonshine) Nice to see the Bush Doctor shot. Does that climb see 2 ascents a year? I doubt it. Masquerade is likely unrepeated on lead. Watts' talent is underestimated. If anyone can pull the direct start to Lion of Judah (12a?) I'd love to see it done.

Nice job on Supercrack; I don't think too many have sent that. You'll certainly like some of our grad level fissures here in central oregon. In particular, I think you should check out Redsides. I'd be honored to hold your rope.

1: The lower gorge is not the closest to sandstone splitters in the NW or even central oregon. 2: Last Chance provides fingerlocks just as nice as any "sweet ass Squamish fingercrack."

Central Oregon crack climbing is excellent but it's sweet spot is in the solid 5.10 -5.11 range. Great for tuning up or getting in shape but not really beginner territory. That said, the lower gorge is the place to start with some nice easier routes that, as pointed out, don't require pure jamming technique ( but allow you to work on it.) Then head to the outlying areas for jamming nirvana.

I think it is excalibur

Are you talking about the Salathe or the Steck Salathe? I don't know who Jacko is but I know there is a big difference between those two routes. A talanted beginner could second the Steck free after a few weeks in the valley. Only a couple of people have ever freed the Salathe. But jugging it is no big deal.

You were through the scariest bits when you rapped. The next pitch actually has a fair amount of gear compared to the two previous pitches and the bolt in the roof is new, as are the bolts in the next anchor. The two 5.9 pitches to the top are kinda runout but REALLY fun (best pitches on the climb, or at least you can relax and enjoy them ) and no worries compared to what you made it through. You make me feel good about myself as I climbed it off the couch this spring after nearly a year off learning to be a dad. I also drew the odd pitches and was thinking of asking my buddy to take the second roof pitch but didn't even consider asking after seconding the 10b pitch between the two. He was pretty strung out when he got to the anchor. I think that pitch is the crux, though I still contend all the 5.10 moves on the climb are well protected and I don't remember any 40 runouts after the first 2 pitches. Thanks for the write up.

The Dike Route on Castle Dome is one of the best grade III's I've done. Fun sustained 5.8-5.9 for nearly 1000 ft. The few 5.10 moves are well protected.

Go do a few routes in the L.G. Start with "Night Shift" for a warm up, then get on a few of the "R" routes.

Lacking granite sadly, but not lacking splitters at all. Plenty of crack nirvana.

Better than the Dike Route?! I found the Dike Route to be rather excellent. I'd be curious to hear from anyone who has done both.

Red Zone is an outlying area of Meadow Camp.