eldiente

Of course Fairyweather would, he likes how Bush is running things. Maybe he works in the defense industry, he probably got a pay raise. There are certainly a very small group of people that have done well in the last 8 years. I don't think even this small group of people "likes" Bush, but they are doing well because of Republican policies and are going to keep backing the republican ticket in hopes that things will continue to go well for them. How big is the group? 5% of America? Maybe less maybe more? To get enough votes they'll latch on to some touchy issues (guns, abortion, etc) to drum support from the un-educated in middle America. Of course this is the biggest irony is the people that need the most help (low income middle America) get none of that from the Republican Party.

Yes, we waste billions of dollars and piss off the Arab world with our support of that Church-State called Israel. Mostly because Jews in this country seem to give lots of $$ to just the right people.

How is this news? Some guy rolled his ankle playing tennis last night at the local Y, where is the film crew? The bolt is actually in a good spot and not all that dangerous as the landing is flat and sandy. Although for the new leader this might not be best choice of routes to break into the grade. I'm not even sure if you could get that bolt with a clip stick, it is a ways up there (how tall are clip sticks anyway?)

Yes, it is mostly just a snow walk-up, no need for ropes etc. Be careful of the elevation as it hit me harder than I expected. It is nice to acclimate at the hut, but at the same time hanging around the hut makes you feel bored and lethargic. Also, the hut is indeed loud and a crazy mix of people, both climbers and non-climbers. Bring earplugs and/or an iPod or be prepared to suffer through all night conversations about Jesus. Not sure about guides but the route is so straight forward I would think anyone could do it. Getting to the hut is done by asking around town for one of the locals to drive you up there in a truck. Don't worry about setting a pick-up as there is trucks going to the hut every day and you can always ride back down with a different drive if your driver isn't there.

This thread needs to be moved somewhere else, clearly this has nothing to do with the original TR. Move to spray please. -Nate

Good topic. If the grade is moderate, I actually prefer not to read the any beta just for funs sake. Drives my parter nuts as I'm always getting lost just for the hell of it. On harder stuff, I'll study every known detail of the route to stack things in my favor. Although I must say that sometimes trying to memorize beta gets me into trouble. I'l spend so much time trying to look for that "mandatory" crimp that I'll mess up what would otherwise be trivial moves.

I went up the N.Side of Hood in October last year on cold clear day and found no falling rock, a bit of smear ice was "in" but other than that it was easy walking. Also note that some years there is a bit of snow on October to help you out.

Yeah this sounds like a bade idea. Not every cam needs to be extended, and taking a big whip onto webbing that was tied onto other webbing would make me nervous

Trout Creek has many a hard O.W, several of them are still waiting FFAs.

I found them! Thanks for the help.

Impressive, more so because of his age. Most folks in their early 20s lack the mental discipline to pull-off something like this. One as to wonder what he'll be doing when he gets a bit older. Side note, I have to imagine that it is really fun to climb like this, walk up to a monster route on half-dome and cruise to the summit before lunch.

These polls are useless. The only thing that matters is the the state by state polls as we don't elect a president by popular vote. Looking at the State level, BO is doing OK, as he is up in every state that Kerry won and tied in several of the swing states. I have high hopes he'll take Colorado.

For summer climbs where you might get rained on, make sure to bring a light waterproof shell. Use this waterproof shell as a windbreaker instead of bringing a windbreaker and a rain jacket. I used to always carry a rain jacket in the bottom of the camelback and wear my wind breaker, this is sort of redundant and adds weight. I'm now a big fan of just wearing my cheap-o Marmot Precip jacket as a windbreaker and if it starts to rain I'm already wearing my rain jacket.

I know nothing of this route and can't seem to find much beta online. Grade? -Nate

Yeah I used to recall working out at a 24 hour gym. Every time I'd check in some guy with big arms would tell me how scrawny I was and if I'd train with him I'd get "bigger" I always had a good laugh. But overall I liked the 24 hour gym I went to, they had everything, pool, sauna, racket ball etc. If you've got to go to a mega gym you may as well go to one that has fun toys to workout on. As for the agro/ignorant trainers. What you gonna do, they get paid to tell people what they want to hear. They are their to make money so getting an un-biased and/or informed opinion is probably not going to happen. As with most workout "programs" everyone seems to have an agenda and a secret sauce that they think works best. I'd like to find a trainer who advocates drinking more beer for better fitness.

Hands down the best TR ever on CC.com. Although my boat hasn't done anything fun like go to Hawaii, she is a great approach vehicle for climbs around Squamish. And really, a Cal 20 that far offshore?

I think the conservative males out thee have found a new object to put into the spank bank.

Thanks for the tip! I hope these are them. -Nate

Anyone? I'd be bummed to lose two pairs of shoes in the same weekend. -Nate

last weekend I left a pair of 5.10 pitons and yellow murias at ozone or beacon. At ozone they would be by the humbling, at beacon they would be @ YW. Help please?

Yes I really like that 2nd pitch on YW. Pulling into that finger crack is fun, if only it could be longer. I was there on Sunday and made an effort to look for the rotten rock/bad pro on that pitch and I'm not seeing it. I do recall a sort of hallow sounding flake way back in there, but the gear (blue or green Alien) is on solid rock and the under-cling flake right below the finger crack feels good. It would be fun to try a more direct line on YW that goes straight up from the belay on pitch two. Right now it looks dirty and maybe some small pro for nuts would do it. Anyone tried this or thought about it? always seems a bit odd to go way left than right on this pitch. -Nate

Lame.. I can't stand climbing at that place. It is sad what has happened to it, seems like there is not shortage of ass-holes to mess that place up. -Nate

Why not, holding steady at 142.

I'd say Tieton would be a great spot for a new leader. Bolted belays, soft grades, and lots of good pro. Squamish would be a great place too, but the crowds on the "mellow" routes can be a real problem to the point where you could sit and wait all day for a trip up Diedre. Do you really want to be learning how to place gear with 30 French Canadians crawling up your ass? Outside of the PNW, I'd say Red Rocks is the best new trad leader place that I can think of. Unlike some places, the "easy" long routes at Red Rock are full-value with quality moves and airy positions. Many of the moderates at Red rocks have huge face holds surrounding the crack so your not having to learn how to place gear and learn how to crack climb at the same time. It is amazing how much experience you can pack in just by climbing a few long easy routes at Red Rocks. -Nate You can climb 1,000+ feet of 5.6 on steep rock and feel like a rock-star.