eldiente

Yes the range is kinda poor on these guys and they do feel a bit soft. I have some that I use in the middle size range as you can buy two for the price of a BD. A good way to go for doubling up on size for a long hand crack. In the smaller sizes (alien sized) the Flex Cams are useless. I like C3s.

There is a a few routes at Trout that are wide and hard. I think of specific names, buy if you go to the main wall they will be obvious. -Nate

Haydar is a good man.

Anyone want to climb Smith or Trout Creek this weekend? Weather around PDX is looking iffy this weekend, I bet it will be prefect temps down at Smith. I'm game to climb just about anything. I can drive from PDX. -Nate natetack@gmail.com

yeah that's lame. The last few times I've been there I've had issues with rednecks and large generators running at all hours. For a good night's sleep, I prefer to pay a few bucks and stay at the bivy sites at the park. Bring a gun and carry it at all times.

Oh yeah that thing is way fixed. Climbed that route today and that piece is there to stay. Sorry for your loss. Thanks for coming out to the boat John, it was a nice way to end a good day of climbing..

Sorry to hear that Mark. I was going to go out there myself but went for a wet bike ride instead. Was the rock a little slick up there? -Nate

No topo needed there. The climbs are obvious. The ones that are steeper are a little harder.

I've put in several TR anchors out there over thee years and they get chopped as soon as they go in. No joke, 24 hours after I put them in, they are gone. I would encourage you to install these anchors, that would be nice of you, but I bet some child molesting church goer from across the street will chop them. It looks like whoever does it is using a power grinder as they aren't even removing the bolts, just grinding them off. I'd like to bivy out there some night to see who is doing this. As they go to chop my anchors, I'd push them off and that would be the end of them. Really what an awful crag. The climbing could be good there, but without decent anchors it is a real pain. Nobody can honestly say there are preserving the rock by chopping the bolts when the place is a quarry, and there are junk TVs at the base of the routes. Official bounty notice: Anyone who know who chops the bolts out there? I suspect it is a local land owner, not a climber. $100 to the person who PMs me with name of whoever chopped my anchors. -Nate

Nice work! Anyone know if you can walk-off in climbing shoes? Thinking about doing this route this weekend and I'd rather not drag a small pack through the O.W sections.

I Love that route.. That last pitch is pure joy.. Although even with a 60 you still wish you had a few more feet left to take you all the way to walk-off. Although the rope drag from such a long pitch really sucks when belaying up the second. What a great route. Nice pics. I'm always having so much fun on that route that I forget to shoot any pictures.

Posting pics of yourself soloing moderate routes and bragging about them? I hope your trying to be funny.. I need to find that pics of myself hiking out in the woods the other day. I soloed some hard wet trails..

We were up there on Sunday AM trying to climb LC but bailed due to early morning rain showers and bug issues. No joke, I've never seen mosquitoes like that, belaying would have been impossible without a bug net on the first pitch. Just curious, how did the weather shape up for the rest of the day? Did it rain anymore on Sunday?

Awful thread. Mods can we remove this? These types of conversations are silly and draw unneeded attention to a local crag. kevbone can you please not post useless BS about Beacon? We try to keep things quiet out there and topics like this don't help at all. If you have a legitimate question about Beacon, go out there and ask a local. Be a little respectful. -Nate

My partner and I are thinking of hitting WA Pass this weekend and are seeing if there is anyone that would like to car-pool up there. We'd be leaving Friday afternoon from Portland and could meet up with anyone along the I-5 strip. We'd be in a Subaru wagon and could fit another pair of climbers in there. Help driving the car and few bucks in gas would be nice, but not necessary. Seems like a waste to drive a half empty car if there were other people going that direction. Ping me if your interested. -Nate natetack@gmail.com

Nice work guys. A big thanks! I won't be out till next week but I am very much looking forward to it. -Nate

I did a trip up there late July one year and it was even lamer than Hood normally is. There was ash everywhere and than only section that had snow on it was short bit below the summit and it was solid blue ice.. Go hit the beach instead..

That's real classy, talking shit about someone who is dead. A little respect please.

This conversation is about sooo 3 years ago. Really there is a CC thread that is 10 miles long arguing about the bolt placements on that route. If you feel the bolts are to close for your taste don't clip them. If they are too far apart and your feeling a bit sketch, maybe you should bail. The school of thought I heard was that the route was to be viewed as 2 parts, upper and lower separated by some 4th class choss. This seems about right as in the middle there were a couple of hundred feet of scrambling to get to the upper part of the route. Think like Squamish where you have to scramble through that steep forest above the Apron to go up Squamish buttress to the summit. Also, as a side note I just climbed Green Giant Buttress last weekend and found the climbing very similar to Infinite Bliss. Lots of bolted slab. How come nobody complains about that wall?

Was up there last weekend. Road is doable in car but a little rough and you will scrape the bottom a few times. There is enough room at the trailhead for a 10 point turn to turn-around. The hike in is a grind with some snow on the gully below the wall.

The rock doesn't look to bad. Is that the East face were looking at in the pictures?

Anyone been up to Washington Pass recently? I was thinking of going up there next weekend to climb but I'm worried about the rock still being wet on most of the routes. Any of the routes up there dry out fast enough to climb while there is still snow around the base? Liberty Crack would be on wish list for this trip, maybe the 1st pitch of that route is so buried with snow that you'll actually be starting on the second pitch when you rope up. Any beta would be helpful.

Wow, this is funny. I was up there on Saturday and saw these questionable guided groups up there. I was thinking that I've never seen a a true accident in the mountains before but I was going to witness one right there. These groups ( I saw at least 3 or 4) were literally falling down the mountain and had it not been for the guide holding the break they all would have perished. This scares me silly. A large group of people tied together rolling down the mountain is a major hazard. Talk about making the people around you feel unsafe. If your going to be falling, place some pro, pleasssssse. With a zoo like Hood there is no way your going to be able to not climb under/or over other people on the South side. One person falling solo is going have less of a chance of snagging another party on the way down than large party of roped climbers tied together. That's funny you mention that famous accident where a roped team fell. I've always thought it was a shame they were all tied together. Maybe if they hadn't used a rope, two of them would still be alive? Of course it would be hard to charge a client big $$$ if you told them they were going to responsible for their own safety and would need to know how to self-arresst.

Anyone seen the west side of Hood in the last few weeks? Going up there this weekend (12th) and am wondering how the hike up and ski down is going to be.

Looks like there is finally going to be some sun this weekend. Anyone from the Portland area want to hit Trout Creek or Smith? Tieton might be another good option if the weather looks good up there. PM me or shoot me an email and we'll figure something out. -Nate natetack@gmail.com