eldiente

Awful thread. Mods can we remove this? These types of conversations are silly and draw unneeded attention to a local crag. kevbone can you please not post useless BS about Beacon? We try to keep things quiet out there and topics like this don't help at all. If you have a legitimate question about Beacon, go out there and ask a local. Be a little respectful. -Nate

My partner and I are thinking of hitting WA Pass this weekend and are seeing if there is anyone that would like to car-pool up there. We'd be leaving Friday afternoon from Portland and could meet up with anyone along the I-5 strip. We'd be in a Subaru wagon and could fit another pair of climbers in there. Help driving the car and few bucks in gas would be nice, but not necessary. Seems like a waste to drive a half empty car if there were other people going that direction. Ping me if your interested. -Nate natetack@gmail.com

Nice work guys. A big thanks! I won't be out till next week but I am very much looking forward to it. -Nate

I did a trip up there late July one year and it was even lamer than Hood normally is. There was ash everywhere and than only section that had snow on it was short bit below the summit and it was solid blue ice.. Go hit the beach instead..

That's real classy, talking shit about someone who is dead. A little respect please.

This conversation is about sooo 3 years ago. Really there is a CC thread that is 10 miles long arguing about the bolt placements on that route. If you feel the bolts are to close for your taste don't clip them. If they are too far apart and your feeling a bit sketch, maybe you should bail. The school of thought I heard was that the route was to be viewed as 2 parts, upper and lower separated by some 4th class choss. This seems about right as in the middle there were a couple of hundred feet of scrambling to get to the upper part of the route. Think like Squamish where you have to scramble through that steep forest above the Apron to go up Squamish buttress to the summit. Also, as a side note I just climbed Green Giant Buttress last weekend and found the climbing very similar to Infinite Bliss. Lots of bolted slab. How come nobody complains about that wall?

Was up there last weekend. Road is doable in car but a little rough and you will scrape the bottom a few times. There is enough room at the trailhead for a 10 point turn to turn-around. The hike in is a grind with some snow on the gully below the wall.

The rock doesn't look to bad. Is that the East face were looking at in the pictures?

Anyone been up to Washington Pass recently? I was thinking of going up there next weekend to climb but I'm worried about the rock still being wet on most of the routes. Any of the routes up there dry out fast enough to climb while there is still snow around the base? Liberty Crack would be on wish list for this trip, maybe the 1st pitch of that route is so buried with snow that you'll actually be starting on the second pitch when you rope up. Any beta would be helpful.

Wow, this is funny. I was up there on Saturday and saw these questionable guided groups up there. I was thinking that I've never seen a a true accident in the mountains before but I was going to witness one right there. These groups ( I saw at least 3 or 4) were literally falling down the mountain and had it not been for the guide holding the break they all would have perished. This scares me silly. A large group of people tied together rolling down the mountain is a major hazard. Talk about making the people around you feel unsafe. If your going to be falling, place some pro, pleasssssse. With a zoo like Hood there is no way your going to be able to not climb under/or over other people on the South side. One person falling solo is going have less of a chance of snagging another party on the way down than large party of roped climbers tied together. That's funny you mention that famous accident where a roped team fell. I've always thought it was a shame they were all tied together. Maybe if they hadn't used a rope, two of them would still be alive? Of course it would be hard to charge a client big $$$ if you told them they were going to responsible for their own safety and would need to know how to self-arresst.

Anyone seen the west side of Hood in the last few weeks? Going up there this weekend (12th) and am wondering how the hike up and ski down is going to be.

Looks like there is finally going to be some sun this weekend. Anyone from the Portland area want to hit Trout Creek or Smith? Tieton might be another good option if the weather looks good up there. PM me or shoot me an email and we'll figure something out. -Nate natetack@gmail.com

Yep Extras on the 1" and 2" size are the ticket. I seem to recall using 2x .75 on the undercling pitch.

Sounds like a Troll to me.. Wasn't this a popular topic ohhh about 2 years ago? The route is fun but not good enough to be classic and draw lots of crowds. Approach was at least an hour if not more in very dense jungle bush whacking. Although there now might be a better trail as we climbed it a few years ago. 10b seems right on for a grade although that is sort of misleading as there is so many low angle 5th class pitches mixed in. The 10b parts are short and welcome changes from the slabs below. Simul climbing is a wise move, bring as many draws as you can carry and you can link many pitches together. I would think a strong 5.10 leader would only have to have a proper belay for a handful of pitches on the whole route. And yes the descent is shitty, so low angle that it is hard to get a proper rap. -Nate

Man does anyone ever post anything useful here anymore? Starting a post with "hypothetical" just to get everyone arguing about the same gay issue.. Spray it is.. For the record, that route is just fine as it is. The slab up there is exciting but not that big of a deal. That route is crappy anyway, as are most of the routes out there. You could install a bolt every 6 inches up there and it wouldn't make a lick of difference to anyone.. Just another greasy urban crag close to Wendys and the outlet mall.

You can see this master topo at PRG on the wall. It is actually a really good topo, you couldn't get lost if you tried. It is all shiny and laminated. I see that you can buy it from some website but now I can't remember the URL. Something like Mr. Piton maps or something. Anyone else seen this topo?

Seeing if anyone form the Portland area would want to meet-up and climb Smith or Trout Creek this weekend. I'll lead 10-11+ and follow or belay on anything. I prefer trad but I've got a few bolted projects that I'd like to clean up. Mostly looking forward to seeing the sun for a change. Carpooling down would be idea but I can drive myself if need be Any takers? PM me or hit my email. natetack@gmail.com -Nate

Trout creek would be fun. Can we do Saturday at Trout, Smith on Sunday?

Wow, that is really ugly. What a shame. And for what purpose? Squamish is such a beautiful place. It is a real tragedy that it isn't better taken care of.

That is some awfully good beta.. Sounds like someone has done this link-up before.

No more so than you being a home owner and some wanker comes along and starts telling you what you can and can't do with your freehold tenure that you paid for. You guys have a problem with it, get your checkbook out and deal with it like the FMCBC et al did across the road a bunch of years back otherwise bite your tongue; unless of course you want to promote a society that thinks it OK to pass idiotic bylaws that purport to fine property owners $10K/tree for unauthorized harvest. Are you for real? There are all kinds of laws governing what one can and can't do with thier own private property. I live in crowded city but want to turn my backyard into a a slaughter house for the pigs I'm raising in my front lawn. Is there a problem with this? Yes because although it is my property, cutting up pigs on my lawn is going to negatively effects my neighbors. Cutting down trees on the Malmute is shameful and negatively effects the entire Squamisha area as whole, not just climbers. The only economy Squamish hasa left is tourists. Tourists don't won't come to look at clear-cut.

Maybe you and Bush should good get together for lunch and trade stories as your both full of shit.... 9/11 had nothing to do with Iraq, this has been proven and well known for sometime. The Democrats as passing a useless funding bill with no teeth. If you actually read the spending bill, it has no way of ending this war and is in fact funding it for as long as Bush wants to wage it.. What a bunch of Nancys.

There is a lot of unknowns with this and it is silly to sit at a computer and try to say what happened. That said, given what we know I'm OK with this guy going to jail for murder. I don't have a problem walking around the woods armed, that's your business. The real kick is that if you are going to own/carry a gun you need to be prepared to make some good judgment calls and realize that that if you screw up you might shoot someone that should be alive. If you fuck up than, than your going to jail. In this case I'd make an example of this guy and send him to jail for a good long while. Might make other people think twice before taking their gun out while on nature walk.

I've seen a small hand crack on the Wells Fargo building downtown that might be doable. Although it is a bit shallow and about 100m long...

Yeah, the wind looked ugly out there this PM. Damn, I was afraid of that. Anyone up for some other spot? Madrone might be good and out of the wind. Nate