eldiente

5.14 time climbing on a 70 degree wall? Is the route covered in ice to get that grade? I'm not sure when a slab becomes a face climb. I get frustrated with slab climbing so anytime I'm making moves with smearing feet I say "this slab sucks" even when the route is overhanging.

That's a rad name for a bouldering problem. Yeah boulder problems count, V8? Yikes that's some low angle madness.

Good list of some rather hard slab routes, I hadn't heard of that one at Suicide Rocks. Hard slab routes of that grade are hard to imagine. Even in the .11/.12 grade, the wall is already blank on low angle slab. With steep sport, you can at least see the sequence and envision that if you were stronger, you might be able to make the moves go. And on that thought, what is the lowest angle slab route that you can think of? I'm thinking it still needs to be an actual pitch, not a 4th class approach pitch. Could there be a 5.10 slab at 50 degrees? I've seen a few routes at Squmish that don't look to be any steeper than 60 and are still rated 5.10ish. Maybe something inTuolumne?

My worst nightmare, hard poorly protected slab climbing. David is clearly a master of the trad game, one has to wonder if there will be some friction over the grade, downgrading it 3 numbers is a hell of a downgrade. And why were talking about it, any ideas on what are the hardest slab routes in NA? And no Dreamer won't be on that list. I was thinking of something in Yosemite, maybe a Caldwell route? I heard something about a slab that he repeated on Half Dome that he graded .14. Any thoughts?

Worst CC thread ever. Can we have a vote? -Nate

Thanks Marcus.

About 1 mile West of the exit for Roster Rock State park there is a small pull-out on you right. Park here. Wall South 100 yards and pick-up RR track/road. Walk .5 mile East along track/road to base of climb. Take note, parking here is illegal as is hiking along the tracks. The safer bet would be to park at Roaster Rock and back-track 1 mile East along the freeway to join up with the above beta. The descent is grim, I'd park a car at the summit or hitch-hike back down to your parked car. -Nate

Please report back on what you find. I'm stuck at work all week.

Shot this pic on Sunday. No ice of any kind, frozen moss and dry tooling was the the sport of the day.

Yeah the tress at Steamboat can be epic on a good day, but aside from there isn't much else going on. Maybe not crazy steep, but unlike most NW resorts, there is some serious vert to be had.

Thanks for the update! It is very kind of you to post this info on CC. Keep up the good work! -Nate

The rock gear works better for me anyway as I don't know how to place screws.

What's the old rule of thumb? Put a 10 gallon bucked of water outside and when it freezes solid it is time to go climbing.

Will it be dry tomorrow? Anyone going out? Looks a bit iffy, but maybe doable. -Nate

Ozone or Broughton are the safest bet. Lately Beacon has been ice cold with the wind, but if your feeling warm and don't mind being blown off you feet, go do Beacon.

check your pms

Ahhhh you actually read koran you'll see that Islam is very violent, it is not a religion of peace. However, most modern followers have learned to disregard the teachings of Islam and follow a more moderate "peaceful" Islam. This is also true of people that follow the Old testament of the Bible, very violent and intolerant. It would seem that there are some followers of Islam that actually read the koran and take it literally, these would be people we call terrorists. They are a bit behind the times, much in the same way the the Christian faith was very violent before most of "them" decided not to follow anything from the old testament and stopped taking everything so literarily. (although it seems there are some folks in Christian faith that haven't gotten the memo and are in fact more closely aligned in ideology to a Muslim extremist) It just gets on my nerves when everyone says "Islam is peaceful, the koran doesn't preach violence" The modern flavor of Islam might indeed be peaceful, but only because these people have chosen to disregarded the what is laid out in the Koran. -Nate

Why is this a surprise? His kids are going to private school for the same reason that Obama doesn't fly coach or take the bus to work.

From this past weekend. I didn't go to the summit, only crater rock. Very thin up there right now, a few inches of wind-blown on top glacier ice. We made a few good turns on the way down but mostly it was survival skiing.

Will do. I'm still trying to decide if I'll make it up there or not. I'm a tad lazy so the decision would be a lot easier to make if I knew the road was open. Looks like a bit of snow is coming in on Thursday so it could change.

Does anyone know if the gate is still open? How far can you drive for the Colchuck trail head? I'm thinking of doing some recon this weekend. -Nate

i'm waaaay past you - i: - run a half-marathon everytime joe quotes someone and then writes a full paragraph point-by-point retaliation - do 50 pullups everytime pink puts in a pop-up lizard - do a brace of bench presses using me wife and 2 kids each time kevbone posts ANYTHING - run 3000 vertical feet on the stairmaster each time geoff can be dragged out of his lurker-ness to weigh in - and jerk off w/ a self-imposed deadline of 30 seconds anytime i double-post b/c i'm so haaawt waiting for the next reply Now that's what I'm talking about!

Quick question, have you guys ever considered how much time you spend talking about Beacon online. Rough guess? Let's try this, every time your tempted to post something about Beacon on CC go do some training. Get a hang-board, do pull-ups, run TR laps, lift weights. You'll be so fucken strong that you'll hike every route out there and even the most obscure line with shaky holds will feel easy for you. Bolts at Beacon, you won't need them as you'll be so strong you'll just run everything out between bomber natural pro. Loose holds, you won't care as those routes are soft and you can just campus past the. I'm not joking, let's try it for 8 weeks and report back to me with your fitness level. I bet you'll add-on at least two full numbers grades by converting Beacon Rock online spray into training time. -Nate

I also wonder if the TJ cabin will even be open at all. Usually they stock it with wood and do the maintenance during the Fall. With the road closure I suspect that they haven't done any of that this year. Even if you could sneak in on snow covered ground, the cabin might be all locked up or un-usable. Has anyone heard from the group that maintains the cabin to see if they have been up there? The skiing is good around TJ, but without the cabin it becomes less attractive.

So I take it the Cloud Camp Road is closed for the rest of the Fall? Anyone heard otherwise?