eldiente

Yeah I use to go up Vomit Launch with no stick-clip. Then all of the sudden that starting foothold started feeling really slick the last few times up it, so I wussed and grabbed the dead tree stick clip up there and used it. The fall is very short but onto some nasty rocks and a long roll down the hill.

Huh? What sort of joke is this?

I've wanted one every so often, and I have to admit I've used make-shift clip sticks from branches for a few routes (Vomit Launch comes to mind) Overall I'd say no, it just isn't a fun way to climb. Feels whacky. Also, if the landing is decent (ie not huge boulders) it is kinda fun to treat the opening moves like a bouldering problem. I'd prefer to drag a crash pad with me rather than a clip stick. Plus, if I'm really having problems making the moves to the first bolt, the route is probably not going to happen no matter what sort of tricks I use.

Remove them

[ I'm basically just trying to figure out what would be substantially different between doing it at the Bat Wall and doing it on one of the Fremont Bridge pillars besides a shorter walk... ] Funny as I've always though those would make good gym routes, bolt on some holds, install bolts and climb. No joke, I bet some of those pillars are 30M+ tall and even have overhanging finishes.

Again, I'll say that this has nothing to do with climbing, bolting, ethic, trad or the usual things we yap about. This is just simply a case of some people leaving behind a bunch of metal junk that is of no use to anyone (climber or non-climber) and it should be viewed as litter.

Oh and btw Crimper you have plate numbers or anything about their car? I'd be in favor of calling the cops on this and/or drowning them in the river.

Sounds like they may be non-climbers, like the sport rappelers you'd see every so often back in the Midwest. This isn't bolt vs no-bolts, this is just someone out vandalizing the rock. No different than if someone went out there and bolted a metal staircase to the wall or cut a tree down to practice using their chainsaw. Could you report them to the cops or the Park Ranger? It might be good to let the Ranger know that this was not climbers, just some red-necks testing out their new drill. -Nate

Practice bolt ladder? Huh? Why? Even if your a total rookie, surely you could go down to Classic crack or any of the other cracks around town and practice aiding. If your really green and don't trust your bomber cam placements, drop a TR down classic crack and aid with a fixed rope on you. Ethics aside, who the hell has the time/motivation to go through all that trouble to fix bolts that they themselves will probably only use once? Who are these people? If you know to place a bolt, surely you'd know how pointless a practice aid ladder is. -Nate

These are good friends and many PDX climbers know them. This is sad beyond belief.

Anyone been up to Beacon lately? How's the wind? Looks dry enough but I'm seeing reports of strong winds up there. Anyone going to brave the cold and do it this weekend? -Nate

Any updates from this week yet? I was up there on Saturday and it was solid ice on Palmer, horrible skiing. Any chance it will thaw out and offer some Spring skiing in the next few days? -Nate

5.14 time climbing on a 70 degree wall? Is the route covered in ice to get that grade? I'm not sure when a slab becomes a face climb. I get frustrated with slab climbing so anytime I'm making moves with smearing feet I say "this slab sucks" even when the route is overhanging.

That's a rad name for a bouldering problem. Yeah boulder problems count, V8? Yikes that's some low angle madness.

Good list of some rather hard slab routes, I hadn't heard of that one at Suicide Rocks. Hard slab routes of that grade are hard to imagine. Even in the .11/.12 grade, the wall is already blank on low angle slab. With steep sport, you can at least see the sequence and envision that if you were stronger, you might be able to make the moves go. And on that thought, what is the lowest angle slab route that you can think of? I'm thinking it still needs to be an actual pitch, not a 4th class approach pitch. Could there be a 5.10 slab at 50 degrees? I've seen a few routes at Squmish that don't look to be any steeper than 60 and are still rated 5.10ish. Maybe something inTuolumne?

My worst nightmare, hard poorly protected slab climbing. David is clearly a master of the trad game, one has to wonder if there will be some friction over the grade, downgrading it 3 numbers is a hell of a downgrade. And why were talking about it, any ideas on what are the hardest slab routes in NA? And no Dreamer won't be on that list. I was thinking of something in Yosemite, maybe a Caldwell route? I heard something about a slab that he repeated on Half Dome that he graded .14. Any thoughts?

Worst CC thread ever. Can we have a vote? -Nate

Thanks Marcus.

About 1 mile West of the exit for Roster Rock State park there is a small pull-out on you right. Park here. Wall South 100 yards and pick-up RR track/road. Walk .5 mile East along track/road to base of climb. Take note, parking here is illegal as is hiking along the tracks. The safer bet would be to park at Roaster Rock and back-track 1 mile East along the freeway to join up with the above beta. The descent is grim, I'd park a car at the summit or hitch-hike back down to your parked car. -Nate

Please report back on what you find. I'm stuck at work all week.

Shot this pic on Sunday. No ice of any kind, frozen moss and dry tooling was the the sport of the day.

Yeah the tress at Steamboat can be epic on a good day, but aside from there isn't much else going on. Maybe not crazy steep, but unlike most NW resorts, there is some serious vert to be had.

Thanks for the update! It is very kind of you to post this info on CC. Keep up the good work! -Nate

The rock gear works better for me anyway as I don't know how to place screws.

What's the old rule of thumb? Put a 10 gallon bucked of water outside and when it freezes solid it is time to go climbing.