eldiente

We came down from Chair Peak last night in poor weather. There were 2 other parties that started up at about the same time we did but we didn't see them on the top or descent. I'm a little concerned as it was dark when we hiked out and their cars were still there we left the parking lot. We left word with the night security guard at the ski resort to keep an eye out for them. Anyone know anything about these climbers? I'd like to hear that they made it out OK. It would have been a cold night to sleep out. -Nate

Anyone been up to Snoqualmie since the rain stopped? I'm wondering if any of the peaks around the pass would be in condition after all that rain we had followed up by the cooler weather that has settled in. Any info would be helpful. -Nate

No I didn't summit. I turned around after I made it up onto the Spur. I wasn't really planing on making it to the top as I started late. I stopped for break on the Cooper Spur and could see you guys about 1,000 feet above me about to enter the rocky section.

That's funny. When I was crossing the Elliot I saw you guys up on the ridge. It looked like the wind was going to blow you guys off!

Did I see you going up the Spur on Sunday with another guy? Yes it was very windy Sunday morning on the hike in but it eased by noon. The ice that I went up was very thick and stable in the center of the above photo. I ended up traversing right near the top of the ice and finished via climb the rock on cliff to the right of the main flow. If the road is still open this weekend I bet it would be a lot of fun.

Thanks! Bill's tools worked out very nicely. My footwork could use some help, feels like I'm climbing around with roller-skates on my feet.

I went up the North face of Hood yesterday (Sunday) and was surprised to find good ice. On the shoulder of Cooper Spur there are several thick runs of ice 200 feet long in good shape. The parts that I climbed were thick waterfall ice. Climbers left there were a couple of pillars that looked very steep but not all the way down. Looked doable for someone with good mixed skills. The road to to Tilly Jane is clear and open, although that might have changed today with all the rain were having in PDX. Link below for pictures. http://picasaweb.google.com/natetack/ClimbMountHoodFall07 -Nate

Ahh here's an idea. How about non-verbal. Nothing ruins a nice peaceful crag day than everyone screaming up and down at each other. Seriously. A few tugs on the rope is adequate in most situations. Much safer as your not going to get confused when another party screams up "Off belay" As for established signals? I didn't know there was an "official' rule book on this. I'm going to say whatever works to keep you safe is the established method. I want to invent my own set of rope commands. From now on instead of calling for a "take" the leader now has to yell "I'm a vagina." Please though, no more screaming commands at the wall.

ahh yes by this upcoming weekend it looks like the snow returns. I should have gotten off my lazy ass and went last weekend..

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Very tempting. Looks like a bit of snow on backbone but not too bad. Very tempting. Especially as there probably isn't anyone up there this time of year and no permits. Has anyone had any experience with a late season run up backbone or serpentine?

Has anyone been up to Colchuck Lake recently? With the recent dry weather I'm thinking about going up there to do something on Dragontail. Is the road still open, how much snow is on the trail/peaks? Any info would be helpful. Thanks! -Nate

Yes the range is kinda poor on these guys and they do feel a bit soft. I have some that I use in the middle size range as you can buy two for the price of a BD. A good way to go for doubling up on size for a long hand crack. In the smaller sizes (alien sized) the Flex Cams are useless. I like C3s.

There is a a few routes at Trout that are wide and hard. I think of specific names, buy if you go to the main wall they will be obvious. -Nate

Haydar is a good man.

Anyone want to climb Smith or Trout Creek this weekend? Weather around PDX is looking iffy this weekend, I bet it will be prefect temps down at Smith. I'm game to climb just about anything. I can drive from PDX. -Nate natetack@gmail.com

yeah that's lame. The last few times I've been there I've had issues with rednecks and large generators running at all hours. For a good night's sleep, I prefer to pay a few bucks and stay at the bivy sites at the park. Bring a gun and carry it at all times.

Oh yeah that thing is way fixed. Climbed that route today and that piece is there to stay. Sorry for your loss. Thanks for coming out to the boat John, it was a nice way to end a good day of climbing..

Sorry to hear that Mark. I was going to go out there myself but went for a wet bike ride instead. Was the rock a little slick up there? -Nate

No topo needed there. The climbs are obvious. The ones that are steeper are a little harder.

I've put in several TR anchors out there over thee years and they get chopped as soon as they go in. No joke, 24 hours after I put them in, they are gone. I would encourage you to install these anchors, that would be nice of you, but I bet some child molesting church goer from across the street will chop them. It looks like whoever does it is using a power grinder as they aren't even removing the bolts, just grinding them off. I'd like to bivy out there some night to see who is doing this. As they go to chop my anchors, I'd push them off and that would be the end of them. Really what an awful crag. The climbing could be good there, but without decent anchors it is a real pain. Nobody can honestly say there are preserving the rock by chopping the bolts when the place is a quarry, and there are junk TVs at the base of the routes. Official bounty notice: Anyone who know who chops the bolts out there? I suspect it is a local land owner, not a climber. $100 to the person who PMs me with name of whoever chopped my anchors. -Nate

Nice work! Anyone know if you can walk-off in climbing shoes? Thinking about doing this route this weekend and I'd rather not drag a small pack through the O.W sections.

I Love that route.. That last pitch is pure joy.. Although even with a 60 you still wish you had a few more feet left to take you all the way to walk-off. Although the rope drag from such a long pitch really sucks when belaying up the second. What a great route. Nice pics. I'm always having so much fun on that route that I forget to shoot any pictures.

Posting pics of yourself soloing moderate routes and bragging about them? I hope your trying to be funny.. I need to find that pics of myself hiking out in the woods the other day. I soloed some hard wet trails..

We were up there on Sunday AM trying to climb LC but bailed due to early morning rain showers and bug issues. No joke, I've never seen mosquitoes like that, belaying would have been impossible without a bug net on the first pitch. Just curious, how did the weather shape up for the rest of the day? Did it rain anymore on Sunday?