selkirk

I've taped fingers joints a bit. Whenever I boulder the first joint of my fingers (down by the hand) seems to stiffen and ache a bit and taping tightly seems to help a little? Never done it for wrists though. Only seems to be a problem in the gym though.

Sweet! Congratulations on getting schackled

Go-Lite Coal if you can find them also friggin cheap and not quite so bit as the 6-month-night Had mine for a couple of years and does a nice job! Prett sweet at $30

my bells are small enough i can wear a sweater over them if need be. Won't that inhibit theyre jingling though? their a match maid in heven Your just envyus of her belles and my spelling!

this whole thread just begs for more off color comments! Especially about Minx and her love of off widths

my bells are small enough i can wear a sweater over them if need be. Won't that inhibit theyre jingling though?

So is anyone other than CBS and the Olyclimber/Alpinefox monstrosity going tonight? I'm hungry and desperately need a drink!

I didn't say she wouldn't look fabulous Besides, it'll make drunken stalking easier if all the girls wore bells

I'd like a more informed opinion

I thought fast was bad?

Won't wearing bells be chilly that time of year?

I'm not quite sure wheter to or The wife and I bought our first house last week and moved in Saturday! It's a cool house, nice backyard, free apples and strawberries But my summer climbing season has gone to shit Haven't been on the rock since mid June. Have had 1 good glacier climb and one failed ice climb since then Not even any gym time! I had such high hopes, and between aborted jury duty screwing up plans, and buying a house, they've all gone to shit I guess there's still this fall to hope for

I think we should make anything with a higher risk of death the terrorism illegal. Then terrorism would definitely be my my highest safety priority.... Of course we'd have to get rid electricity. And boats would be right now. I'd say we could all ride horses to work, but those things are probably much more dangerous per/rider-hour than terrorism. Heck, we might even solve global warming that way!!! No one has ever implied we should ignore terrorism completely. But there are 6 times as many deaths per year in the US alone, due to work related injuries, then there are in the entire world for a year due to terrorism. 3 times as many fire deaths, 42 times as many automobile deaths, 3 times as many drownings, and an equal number of deaths due to accidental firearm discharge. I wonder what the amount of money spent per life saved is, for money spent on drunk driver education and treatment, or on worker safety improvements compared to terrorism? It's not the bogeyman, it's not the end of the world or our civilization unless we take the actions they want us too. Which is repressing civil liberties, restricting speech, dissent, and other basic freedoms. The whole point of terrorism is to use the fear instilled in people to cause the government to take actions that will induce the people to revolt and/or turn to supporting the terrorist cause. Killing people is collateral damage, and nothing compared to what we do to ourselves in response. Certainly it deserves attention, resources, and people combatting it, but it doesn't deserve the fear and panic we alot it. Or to have so many resources thrown at it that the rest of the country suffers. oh and belated

Any one care to put the numbers in perspective? Say... the number of people in the world killed by terrorists vs say the number killed in car accidents, or heart disease, or accidentally shooting your lawyer buddy in the face while duck hunting?

Please feel free to tell RUMR to fuck off whenever you like. He enjoys it in his own special way

Bite the bullet and go to Leavenworth. You're whole post just screams R&D. Besides, then you go out for good italian food afterwords, and what chick would'nt dig that?

Then you'd better be thorough. Seeing as no one is going to be left we might as well start dropping nukes. I have yet to see anyone with the stomach to actually do this, but I think it's been shown again and again that when fighting a a war against a resistance drawn from the entire local population, 1/2 measures dont' cut it. Israel's done a pretty good job of showing that killing 50% of them only pisses off the other 50% and you end up with the same number of suicide bombers and terrorists. So sure, keep blowing them..... It's done a bang up job of achieving peace in that area so far. I'm sure more and bigger bombs will scare them into settling down

Probably no need to post the full trip report but I thought I would update the conditions on Shuksan. High Camp: The rangers don't realy like you camping at the little saddle just past the official "high camp" as your too far away from the composting toilets. Even if you have blue bags.... Also, they don't like you sleeping anywhere but on the snow. Glacier: Cracks are starting to open up. Saw a reasonable number of 6 inch to 1 foot cracks last weekend mostly in the flat area below the summit, with a few larger ones off to climbers right on the ascent. Snow conditions were great, well consolidated snow, no post holing at all, and made for an easy climb/descent. Would have been nice to have a slightly lower freezing level as the snow was pretty soft (I had a little bit of balling), even at 3:00 am. The summit pyramid seemed easiest to access high and climbers right. The slightly shitty loose gully is of course slightly shitty and looze. Trail: Black flies galore, move fast or bring bug repelent. For some reason they like to fly into my ears. Are they that enamored with ear wax? Bugs cleared a bit once you get onto the ridge leading to the saddle, and cleared completely once on the snow. All in all it's in great shape to get!

for the exact same route, trying to climb it trad (placing your own gear on lead) requires more strength, and more endurance, as it takes longer to place your own gear than it does to clip a bolt (as you would in sport climbing). Trad also take more mental poise as you spend more energy placing gear, often spend longer above your last piece (while you place another one, or climb further to conserve strength by placing fewer pieces), and because placing your own gear is inherently less reliable than bolts. All said, it take more focus and attention to detail because mistakes tend to be much more dangerous.

Mostly... it's the size of the cahones it takes to do it. Hard sport climbing is hard. Hard trad climbing is hard and and f-ing scary

Was there any liquid water at the high camps (5,400-6,800ft) or just snow? I think I'll be heading up this weekend and as always would rather not melt water unless it's necessary Cheers and thanks ahead of time for any beta! Josh

Calamity certainly spanked me! That's the hardest move I've had to pull on lead. It made me wish my fingers were much smaller so I could actually lieback through the whole thing!!

Once you put in a power point and fix the lengths between each piece and the power point, then they're all the same. Equalized in only one direction but with no extension should a piece pull. Now I guess if you want to start tying individual knots in the strands running to different pieces to try and set up a sliding equalization with only minimal extension in case a piece falls, then maybe your right. That's way too damn much work for me though!

I've gone to using a web-o-lette almost exclusively. Seems to work great for slinging stuff, threading around blocks, and equalizing anchors just fine. I'm not often in a position to need to leave rap slings so that's not a big concern. I usually carry a couple of double length (4'?) sewn runners anyway for leavers and for slinging sap covered trees It all works so no worries.

Anyone been up there recently? Or even just been up there? What's reasonable to expect this time of year in the way of snow/ice conditions, steepness, how sustained etc. Any info at all would be appreciated! Thanks in advance!