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    From Tacoma, Now in NYC

HakkTW's Achievements


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  1. IMHO Grivel are the best picks out there, especially out of the box. You don't need to do anything with the teeth, just keep the spine of the pick really sharp. File down the entire first two or three inches from the pick back, making the spine more of a knife edge. I.E. as is the spine blade has an angle of maybe 45degrees as you look at it straight on, file it down so the angle is more acute. Then to clean you give one good jerk to cut the ice above the placement and then lift the pick out. If it still doesn't clean then you are overdriving it.
  2. In the case of wanting them for other than strictly ice, then yes they are fine tools. They swing much more naturally than Fusions (like Vipers as I said before), not as good for mixed as fusions, but much better overall tools.
  3. They climb basically like vipers. That said, after climbing with Vipers for two years and generally being a diehard BD fan, but trying Reactors side by side with Nomics on grade 4 and 5 ice, there is unfortunately no way I could even consider getting the Reactors. The Nomics are a world apart in their stick, but much more importantly in their grip. Mind you the grip may be a different matter for you. Hope this helps.
  4. I have been in Scarpa Alphas for 3 years, and have played with the Omegas to compare them. Basically the Omegas are very similar to the Alphas except they have a little more flex in the tongue of the boot, have a lower-profile rand, and a slightly wider toe-box. Compared to the invernos they are obviously much lighter, but not as warm. Stock they are great for spring/summer mountaineering. They are also damn near as good as leathers for vertical ice IMO. I bought a pair of Inverno high altitude liners which I use in my Alphas and that noticeably increases the warmth. I also know people out here in the northeast that put Intuition liners in them and that makes them really warm, and improves fit universally. As long as the fit is good for your foot, I completely recommend the Omegas (except for aforementioned differences, they are the bloody same as the Alphas) I have loved mine, and the flex and weight really make long approaches nice. They are great, versatile boots.
  5. Email me at HakkTW@gmail.com or call at 360-866-6548. Cheers!
  6. Climb: Colchuck-North Buttress Col Date of Climb: 6/17/2006 Trip Report: sjwages and I climbed the NB col on Saturday. Left the trailhead about 0345. Was cramponing up and on the route about 0645. Great snow conditions, especially on the backside as you approach the summit. There are a couple of interesting rock steps in order to avoid schrunds at various points in the route. We summitted just before 1100. Descent was uneventful, Colchuck glacier was in fine condition for sledding down. Unfortunately, after we had started descenging my dumba@@ realized I had let my camera case come off my pack in the boulder field between the summit and the Colchuck glacier, so I had to ascend back up and find it. That was fun. Anyway, fine day of climbing. really was a good route. Were back to the car by 3:30pm and off to Gustav's. Gear Notes: Crampons, I appreciated my short axe Approach Notes: Nothing noteworthy
  7. So I was home planning on doing allot of soloing, but after knocking out Gib Chute the other day I have realized that changes in life make me not want to solo anymore. Looking to climb as much as possible next few weeks while in town. Game for almost anything, with preference for Rainier. Can climb to Grade IV, and can climb ANYTIME the next few weeks. email me at HakkTW@gmail.com or call 360-870-0894 if interested. Cheers
  8. Looking at the Edelweiss Sharp 8.5 to replace crampon'ed Beal Ice Lines. Love everything about the ice lines except durability. Anyone have experience with Edelweiss ropes? Hand? Kinks? Durability? Looked at Mammut Genesis too, but really want 70m length. Thanks.
  9. I have both the Etymotic ER-6 and the Shure E-2's. I think you can get either for under $150. They both are noise blocking and work great. The Shure's give slightly better sound quality and bass, but are a little bit of a PITA to put in because they have to go up around the ear. The etymotics go in much easier b/c they just insert without any acrobatics. Sound is good, but on windy days you hear a little bit of whistling, and the rubber around the wire is thinner so you are prone to hear it rubbing along your clothing. All that said, I use the etymotics most of the time b/c they are easier to put in/take out while walking around
  10. HakkTW

    REI tents

    I also worked for REI for a number of years and have been using a HalfDome+2 for the last two years for backpacking and mountaineering. REI tents are good quality. In general, I think their 4-season and convertible tents basically suck compared to MH, SD, etc. They are heavy, awkward, and not nearly as strong. The Halfdome simply rocks; you can get its minimum weight down to 4.7 pounds, its twin doors/vestibules make it very easy for two people to share it with full gear, and guyed out properly I have slept in mine in 50mph sustained winds and 70-80mph gusts at Ingerham Flats on Rainier. Mind you it was bending enough to bump me in the head with the poles, but it stood all night and that was enough for me. One simple and cheap modification that adds allot of strength is to wrap the pole intersections with shockcord as tight as you can when you pitch it ala Sierra Designs.
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