TrogdortheBurninator

Wouldn't the hat totally compress under a helmet, eliminating any benefit of the high quality down? Lofting materials work best when they are used at maximum loft, otherwise, it wouldnt take much compression before the dry warmth of the hat decreased below fleece. Does look like it'd be cozy for camping, bouldering, or other helmetless pursuits.

had a full set. used them a handful of times. never liked them much. range feels like nothing and i never got a warm fuzzy feeling placing them. master cams are way way better imo.

one downside IMO is that the picks arent super delicate. Nice for durability, not so good in cold swinging ice. Only other criticism is that head (at least on x-monster) is kind of light compared to shaft. Again, more of an issue in cold ice where you want head weight.

"If I have seen further it is only by standing on the shoulders of giants."

So, because you dont understand certain techniques, you assume they are unsafe?

how is that an example?

http://www.ems.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3656649&cp=3893527.3940258.3982248 adze and hammer $99 each

road adds a few easy miles. maybe 1.5 hrs extra. Snow might slow things a bit, but there is usually a cattle trail to the lake. I'd figure that dragontail approach in winter/spring is fairly close time/effort wise to prusik in summer.

2 days is pretty standard. 1 day is not out of the question if you are fit/competent. 3 days will ease things, but probably isnt totally necessary. Dont go with sketchy avy danger. Aside from the obvious risk of being swept to your death, you will be wallowing more and having less fun.

45L +- 5L. I have a Cilo 45L, but plenty of other good ones too.

Crazy! Nice work spreading the knowledge Drew.

last I checked, the two cameras that really stood out were the Panasonic LX3 and the Canon S90. Most others seemed to be a pretty big step down from these two. If I was buying a new camera, I'd definitely look there first.

ditto, will that upper grip rest fit old quarks?

So, how'd the new petzls look?

I have had Cholatses for a couple seasons, and picked up Nepal Evos this year. My Cholatses were size 43 1/3, Nepals are 44s. If I did it again, I would have gone the next size up in the Cholatses (but still a .5 size down from my street size). Cholatse fits my foot like a (loose) rock shoe, applying even pressure all the way down the forefoot. Volume IS way lower in forefoot than Nepal. Nepals have a very roomy toebox, Cholatses do not. I mostly use rigid Rambo4 crampons, so sole stiffness was not my biggest concern (aside from being sstiff enough to stay in the bails). I do use old BD bionics on occasion, and the cholatse's flex has never bothered me. No matter how tight you crank the Cholatse, for better or worse, you will not get much ankle support.

[video:youtube] another movie from last weekend

Shoot. I must have misread it, also thought it was $100/set. Maybe the guy edited. $200 is a fair price, but not mind blowing. They could be had new a year ago for about that.

wow, that is a deal. josh, you should jump on this.

not cutting edge, but here are some tools for $40. http://www.mountainproject.com/v/for_sale__wanted/fs_new_helmet_new_rope_bag_old_tools_a_simple_alpine_harness_and_some_good_boots/106648090 might be too late already though.

The N. Face and NW Face have a bunch of moderate technical alpine routes. The lack or presence of ice typically dictates enjoyment level. Typically they are done in spring, but favorable fall or winter conditions can bring things in to shape. IMO, the routes on the NW face are some of the best looking ice/alpine climbs in the state. Unfortunately, I never had a chance to do them. Popular routes include: Triple Couloirs The 1971 N. Face Route NE Couloir The NW face routes are less popular, but look more spectacular. Info in Beckey, Nelson Select and WA State Ice guides. Or search the trip reports here.

Got a helmet cam for xmas, so trying my hand at making some movies. [video:youtube]

Awesome pic Rudy! Question, and no disrespect to your son, as he climbs way harder than I ever will, but is city park still 13c for him, or is there a hand/body size benefit (obviously subjective)? Has he top roped other 13c s of various styles (as well as a s and b s)? Obviously continuously overhanging pin scars are gonna be hard, but I have to think a 10 year old's fingers are a bit closer in size to the #5 hb offsets I send that climb with.

not sure how tyrolean = handicapped sidewalk seems like a tyrolean would be the best solution. perhaps efforts could even be made to have it approved by the forest service.