Chad_A

This one's on my list... http://www.coldcoldworldpacks.com/chaos.htm

"no eat some of my food, first. Here have some of this...and this too. And while you're at it, take some of this, as well. It'll make my pack ligh...Oh, I mean, you'll feel better". Oh, and Bronco, no, you're SUPPOSED to have Dan do the approach for you, oh, I mean with you. (Have him break trail, or find the way, and follow accordingly) Hahahahaha....

There's so many projects and repairs that the NPS can't pay for, as it is, that repairing and maintaining that culvert would never make it to the discussion. Never mind the lack of funds for another "visitor center". The WSR is fine the way it is. It's NICE to be able to go to a corner of the park, and not see the crowds of Paradise.

Is the new management plan viewable online? I'd like to check that out. I hope what you're saying, Billy, is right. The problem is, what I'm reading in the WSJ article above, is that the effort to "wring more income from commecial enterprises" would almost have to come from more climbers, although maybe I'm missing something? I'm no business major, that's for sure

Nothing to fear at the PRG. I go there with the g/f on the days we have off together (rare) and to keep a little in shape for the rock, when I'm not in the alpine snow/ice. I never have a problem there. The new facility is pretty nice. I think that you can find cliques wherever you go, if you look for them.

Interesting, Donn. It's such a mess up there, as it is. I can't imagine more guiding outfits trying to squeeze into that route. I'd guess that increasing competition will lower the all-around costs to the new climber, opening up doors to more, and ending up with more total climbers on the route (eventually.) Seems kinda crazy to me.

That is essentially what happened; on the way in, we were suckered into following the boulderfield (evidently, according to those who say you don't have to stick to them to gain the upper valley) by cairns and orange flags that were hung on branches along the way. On the way out, we stayed lower longer, and eventually ended up on the boulders because of postholing through snow patches and wading through bog below the boulders. I'd like to try it again someday just to see what the approach is "supposed" to be like.

Thanks for the great TR, Donn. Accurate as could be had. Dru, I understand your point, but the angle there, combined with the snow conditions, were more than conducive to self arrest/team arrest. No pro needed. Guess you had to have been there.

Criticism aside, I just hope the outcome is for the best. Doesn't sound so good for now, though. My thoughts are with the families and the rescuers.

Same here, put my envelope in in April; received it today. Gracias, MRNP!

Thanks for the kind words. Honestly, felt it on the too "mushy" side after writing it, but chose to leave it alone, as it was obviously what I was feeling at the time. Thanks, ken4ord, for doing that. For some reason, when I tried, a whole bunch of weird characters and random numbers popped up when I posted it. Strange.

Well, here it is. I intended to write up a TR, and thank Oly for going ahead and doing it, because it took on kind of a "project" feel, and I ended up writing it to send to family and friends, who don't hear about my climbing endeavors that much. Oly was pretty gentle with me and my "falling" episodes on the way in (I still don't know what was up with me, but hey, I'm new to bushwhacking, and everyone can have a bad day). SO, enjoy. I don't care if anyone flames; it'll only serve to entertain me. It's long, so grab your favorite and read on. Edit: It didn't copy and paste well, so I entered the word document to click on. See the attachment. 361954-Stuart.doc

Nice pics Iain Good job on doing the route, Ducknut! Man, all this weather looks like it's kept it in spring conditions up there. Doesn't look too different from when we did it in early April. How's the schrund on the Hogsback looking these days?

Ok, here's some pics. First, Stuart as we were walking up. Us roping up near the left side of the moraine. Snow hard enough now; throwing on the crampons before going through the icefall. Oly leading above the icefall, before getting to the schrund. Me leading after going left above the schrund. Stayed left close to the wall to get across. View from the false summit. Looking up from the descent route. Celebratory cigars afterward. Awww-yeaaahh. Sorry about the poor pic quality, but with my record of cameras, I refuse to take anything nice up there anymore. Not bad, though, considering the throw away I used had a large hole in the side of it from the fall I took from the approach

Phew! Thanks for the TR, Oly. I started typing up a word document to copy and paste as a TR, and it took a turn toward an essay...something you would put on a webpage. Glad we got out and did it bro, even with our late start. Hopefully we'll get some WI in this winter on the east coast, eh?

Wow, pretty impressive. I'd like to see them up close sometime

Aw, jeez. Not much to say, but my thoughts are with the family, the partner and the rescuers, for sure. Guess I'll be doing LR next year. Bad vibes, indeed.

Cool, thanks for that, Bug. Sunday, it's supposed to be 5000 foot freezing level, so might give it a go. Man, Ice Cliff, or the NEBC. Hard to choose. Wanna do 'em both

Very nice! This was on the 29th? Hmm. Freezing levels are dropping for this weekend. Might think about it. What was the general angle of the couloir? I looked down on it from the cornice after doing the NBC a little while back; the lower section looked 45-50??? but looks like it was way steeper, to 65 toward the top? Just a guess; let me know what you all think. Good TR, glad you guys nailed it.

Thanks for bringing that up. Funny, for some reason, I thought Stuart would be farther east. Huh. Well, I'll have to save this as a reference point; I seem to get geographically confused

Or send a different link? Sorry, can't get it to work. I understand what you guys are talking about. I also understand that it's not an exact science; but it is nice to have an idea of where the meteorological crest is, for weekends like mine that I have coming up (Saturday through Wednesday.) I'm hoping to sneak in the Ice Cliff Glacier on Stuart, if possible.

Just wondering; when checking out weather forecasts, one might hear "east of the Crest" vs. "west of the Crest". Rainier? Stuart? Forbidden? What draws the line? Obviously, it's not straight. Just looking for some insight, especially for when I want to get into the North Cascades, but want to try to stay out of the weather. Thanks for the input

They may be a bit heavy, but I've climbed WI4 in them, and done basic glacier climbs in them, as well. My other crampons are now relegated to my g/f and others who need to borrow a spare pair. I do everything in the Grivels.

Looks to be in fab shape Now, if this damn weather would ever settle down....then again, it might be unique to be able to climb it in August

I'd agree on the Sirrus SL. I've heard that, from many people, that I shouldn't expect it to last long with harness wear and the such, but I've had no problems. It is a bit short, though. I've considered, if I were to wear this one out, that I might replace it with a Theta SL; same jacket, but a bit longer, and a couple more pockets. Only two more ounces, to boot.