Chad_A

Yeah, I'm just chicken when it comes to that stuff getting warm and wet (my girlfriend was my climbing partner, and, well, if I get squashed by a falling piece of ice or serac, then it's my problem. But, with her with me, I wasn't willing to endulge. If you have more insight on this, and if I am being too big of a wuss, then state it; I'd like to know. I just heard a few things creak and moan up there and that called it...

Wish I would've taken some pictures, but from what I remember, there would definitely be some turns up there to be had. If not, the beers are on me, but I'm pretty sure theres some good continuous white stuff up there waiting for you...

Headed up there today; much too warm (coulda guessed that from the parking lot, but didn't have much else to do). The icefall section doesn't have much to climb right now, unless you go up to the top section of it to climb on the seracs. The lower section of the Elliot is just starting to open up, but nothing to drop down into, and play in. Of course, this is what I saw from about the 7700 ft level; didn't have much time to skirt around to the top and look down. Maybe had I had enough time (read: gotten an earlier start), I would've found something, but then again, maybe not...everything is dripping wet up there, that I saw, with melt off.

Nice pic! Looks like fun! We're there... rbw, where's your office at? Maybe we can fake your death, and you can come along

Has anyone seen the glacier lately? The g/f wants to do something different on Wednesday, and I thought I'd take us up there and set up some ice climbing on TR if it's looking open enough. Beta? Thanks in advance.

Good TR, Stewart! Glad to see you had another chance to get out. Keep in touch! ---Chad---

Haha...cool, Donn. Glad it worked out. Hmmm...I'm sensing that you're beginning to enjoy your TR contributions, now? Kudos to you guys for a great outing.

Damn, that's awful. What's the best way to keep current with the fire? Forest Service websites?

Haha, no shit, ivan! Seth- Yeah, she said she's definitely game for something a bit harder next time. Donn had mentioned Glacier Peak; I'll have to look into the guides, and see what I can scare up for her Hannah- You should come along sometime! I'd like you to get to know Megan, if you're so inclined. She'd be well served to meet another female alpine climber to identify with, if ya know what I mean;) Let me know if you have an easy objective in mind...maybe we can talk Seth into coming, too

Climb: Sahale Peak-Quien Sabe Glacier Date of Climb: 7/10/2004 Trip Report: My girlfriend,Megan, and one of my best friends, Rob, had never been up an alpine outing; I figured it was about time. Originally, the plan was Adams (chill enough, but somewhat boring), until a pal of mine, Jaime, mentioned Sahale Peak while on our trip to Colchuck. After showing Nelson's description of Sahale to Megan and Rob, they were sold, and so was I, since I'd never been up to Boston Basin, at all. I helped them get packed, and they did quite well with their own rationales of how to do things, considering this was their first time. Nothing major was forgotten, and in the broad spectrum of things, everything went off without a hitch. Here's a shot of Johannesburg from the approach: And, another of the two of them on the approach: After setting up shop in the Basin camp, as usual, we were visited by many, mostly of the furry type. One, while we were asleep, saw fit to chew a hole in Rob's new Chaos pack to get to a bag of dried cranberries he'd forgotten, and to gnaw on his trekking pole straps. Here's the mule deer of terror: The next day, Friday, we threw together a small pack each, with glacier gear, and went up to the lower glacier/snowfields to practice a z-pulley, and they both did well. We had an occasional view, but mostly, the mountains were socked in. After this, we headed back down to the camp, ate, and were in bed at 7 pm. We awoke at 12, only to find pea soup outside the tent, and at 2 am, I woke us up, in the same conditions, and just admitted we'd be walking up in a mist. On the way up, the clouds did break a bit: One of the summit awaiting: Here's a shot of them, by the schrund; socked in again: Finally got a shot of Forbidden from the Col: From the Col, we headed up next to the cornices, and then up and onto a short section of wet, exposed rock. I had them take off their crampons, for they'd never walked on rock w/ crampons before. I had Megan stay on the snow, to be able to arrest if I should fall, and she "prussiked" me across. Once over the rock and onto the snow again, I hammered in a picket, and belayed them across. Once again, the crampons were donned, and were were on our way. Once up to the base of the rock summit, I pounded in another picket, and belayed them past me, and up to the rock slab, and then climbed up to them after they were safe and off the slope. From there, I did a running belay, using a nut and a cam, on the way to the summit. From there, I put them on top rope belay from the rap station above, and belayed them up. Before they knew it, we were all on top: We smiled, lots, and then I had them downclimb, still on toprope, and then I downclimbed myself, and we made our way down without a hitch. In camp, they were beat, but smiling. I'd say that Megan will do it again, but Rob, well, it may be a while! Whenever you're ready, man, whenever you're ready Gear Notes: Standard glacier attire, but route could be soloed. Schrund easily walked around. Approach Notes: Trail is as usual. Got a bit off route on the way back through the avy debris, but no big deal. Oh, by the way, the road to the TH should be open within days, according to Marblemount

Ok, here's a few pics; damn, wish I had a digital! Morning sky, looking north, at the saddle: Us, at the bivy, all smiles in the sun: Seth, starting his nice lead of the KER: Finally, a shot from the summit, looking south: Sorry I couldn't contribute more; these guys are much better at taking the photo opps

Nice TR, Donn! Glad you two posted the great pics...I have a couple, as well. I'll post them tomorrow a.m. over coffee.

Hell, yea...#13. Good job, Hannah! Man, I gotta quit workin', and start climbin' more

Man, now I REALLY can't wait to get up there

Nice pics; can't wait to get up there

Hmm. I have the Big Wall Bivy, and love the thing. I'm 6 feet tall; no broken zippers, either. Someone mentioned that I may have the older version, though, before they were made overseas?

Nice send, gents! Glad you had a good time.

Actually, I've done some pretty good mileage with my Chernobyl, overloaded, on approaches, and it doesn't get too bad; and I'm 145 lb, 6 foot tall pencil-neck, so if an overloaded pack is going to give anyone trouble, it'll be me. Not the same pack, but the same type of frame. I'd imagine that it'd be okay past the 45 lb mark; a friend of mine has one (a Chaos), and uses it for standard backpacking trips, as well, so I can ask him how his shoulders feel. I know that he doesn't carry "light" either; he packs in the whole house, sometimes. I'll post his response soon.

This one's on my list... http://www.coldcoldworldpacks.com/chaos.htm

"no eat some of my food, first. Here have some of this...and this too. And while you're at it, take some of this, as well. It'll make my pack ligh...Oh, I mean, you'll feel better". Oh, and Bronco, no, you're SUPPOSED to have Dan do the approach for you, oh, I mean with you. (Have him break trail, or find the way, and follow accordingly) Hahahahaha....

There's so many projects and repairs that the NPS can't pay for, as it is, that repairing and maintaining that culvert would never make it to the discussion. Never mind the lack of funds for another "visitor center". The WSR is fine the way it is. It's NICE to be able to go to a corner of the park, and not see the crowds of Paradise.

Is the new management plan viewable online? I'd like to check that out. I hope what you're saying, Billy, is right. The problem is, what I'm reading in the WSJ article above, is that the effort to "wring more income from commecial enterprises" would almost have to come from more climbers, although maybe I'm missing something? I'm no business major, that's for sure

Nothing to fear at the PRG. I go there with the g/f on the days we have off together (rare) and to keep a little in shape for the rock, when I'm not in the alpine snow/ice. I never have a problem there. The new facility is pretty nice. I think that you can find cliques wherever you go, if you look for them.

Interesting, Donn. It's such a mess up there, as it is. I can't imagine more guiding outfits trying to squeeze into that route. I'd guess that increasing competition will lower the all-around costs to the new climber, opening up doors to more, and ending up with more total climbers on the route (eventually.) Seems kinda crazy to me.

That is essentially what happened; on the way in, we were suckered into following the boulderfield (evidently, according to those who say you don't have to stick to them to gain the upper valley) by cairns and orange flags that were hung on branches along the way. On the way out, we stayed lower longer, and eventually ended up on the boulders because of postholing through snow patches and wading through bog below the boulders. I'd like to try it again someday just to see what the approach is "supposed" to be like.