Chad_A

Still for sale?

Hmm. I don't know about that. That doesn't really take into account objective hazards, that send you home, that happen on climbs in "good conditions". objective hazards = marginal conditions. there will always be another time with lower hazards. seracs, rockfall, forest fires, wet cracks whatever. Ok, let me back up here. Are we speaking of "failure" as in " simply not getting to the summit as a whole"? Or are we talking about the failure that one can do something about, but couldn't or didn't do?

I have fingered and fondled Mr.E's dovals. I like them, but my one complaint is that it is tricky to tell which way "up" is with them. That is, which side the gate opens on. Otherwise, nice lightweight functional biner that is good for racking gear and general stuff. For biners on draws/slings, I prefer an asym biner like neutrinos, trango superflys, whatever. Noticed that, too. Had some stoppers on some, and glanced at it...opened the gate the wrong way, and promptly dumped a few off. Able to retrieve them later, but still...guess maybe "which way is up on a glance" comes with using them all the time. I don't trad lead that often.

Hmm. I don't know about that. That doesn't really take into account objective hazards, that send you home, that happen on climbs in "good conditions". Yeah, probably failure. Or, as a copout, a "diversion"? Probably succeed. If you struggled into the unknown with the skills you have, and deal with obstacles necessary (even though unplanned), fair is fair, and you did the route. Oh, and to stay on topic, Baker was the difficult one to get, for me. Well, I could've done the C.D. route and tagged it, but I didn't want to do it that way. 3 failures on the North Ridge, and one failure on Coleman HW. Finally, success this year

Hard to guess what the Max slope angle was, but I was certainly needing to swing overhead in a couple of spots, so I'd guess 60+ degrees, and as gentle as 45 degrees in spots. Nice meeting you all up on the hill. Bit of a small world, eh? Actually, I'm surprised we didn't see more people, with the goregeous weather. I was quite surprised to have the route to ourselves.

Thank you all for stopping in to take a look, and for the compliments!

Good job, Oleg! I think the only two things that I remember differently, are the elevation of the bivy---8100 ft, and the line that we went through on the route. Still, that's a perfect TR. It was great fun, and right up until the nasty ice crust during the traverse, totally secure. Here's some pics: Baker Splendor: A better picture of me...that one from Oleg's post is the worst I've seen...hahaha: The Headwall: Colfax: Hotel Anderson: Getting warm in the sun in Hotel Oleg: Oleg and Colfax: Oleg at the crevasse rest on the Headwall: Oleg on the final slope of the HW: Oleg on the summit: IPA goodness post-climb: And finally: The route. Forgive the crude red line! Don't have photoshop, darnit. Oleg was a great partner. Have to do it again sometime, man!

Very, very nice, Ade

Leaving Portland today, and going to sleep at the Heliotrope Ridge TH tonight. If anyone wants to climb, we're still looking for a third. Call at 503 679 1187 if you're interested. Steep snow and ice experience necessary You can email me, still, or PM me, up to about 11 am. After that, we'll be on the road.

I'll take the reverso. Let me know how you want me to pay. I live in Portland; prolly won't be down to Bend for a while. You can PM me or email me at anderson7149@comcast.net Thanks!

Teehee.....man, I'd almost pay for your plane ticket at this point

Aww..c'mon..I'm not that bad of a guy No one wants to go out and play on a snow and ice route this weekend? The weather forecast is stellar!

I own a Sirrus SL, and although I can't vouch for the technical weight of the XCR, I can say that it's definitely of the lighter version. Makes sense; I think the jacket weighs 11 ounces.

Looking for viable partners for the North Cascades this weekend. Buckner or Baker; freezing level looks nice for a Saturday night/Sunday morning climb. Probably leave Portland Thursday night, or super early Friday morning for an approach. PM or email me at anderson7149@comcast.net if interested. Not looking for someone who's new to this type of terrain, by the way; existing skills are necessary. Not being a dick, just realistic.

Check yo PMs.

Cool, thanks for that

www.mtnphil.com ??? Who's climbing webpage is this? I imagine that he's on here, somewhere? Can someone direct me to him, or have him PM me? Thanks in advance.

Should be pretty snow free; I know that the road (Pamela Lk road? Can't remember the exact name) starts low at 2300 feet. Can't remember the exact elevation of the trailhead, but I think that Jefferson Park itself is at around 5000-5500 feet? If it's anything like at Timberline lodge (~5900 feet) the snow should be reasonably patchy. Certainly above, though, where you normally camp on the moraines (~7500 feet) there might be postholing. I'd suggest a lightweight set of snowshoes? Anyway, it's my best guess from what I remember from last year. Hope it helps, even a little bit.

Willis Wall beautiful? Errr.... Anyway, I concur on the others. I, myself, want to do the Mowich Face. Still, even though it's prolly a bit *easier* than the others, LR is an undeniably attractive line.

You da man, Wayne. That thing looks spicy. Wish I had the time (and probably a bit more skill )

That freakin' rocks. Man, that's a good looking heap of rock and snow

Hey, your welcome. Sometimes I forget about that.

We parked in about 6 inches of snow, and it thinned for a bit, going through the trees, so it was encouraging...until we got past the 21 mile marker, and it seemed to get deep fast. We were on snowshoes. At the final road switchback, we were in a full foot of new, I'd say. We called it quits just as the *trail* (I'm guessing that we were on the trail, but there was so much snow, that you couldn't see where it was anymore, save for the trees to guide you) comes out of the woods, and traverses toward Cascade Pass; I'd guess that we were a matter of minutes from it. With the sun hitting the slopes, the snow started giving signs of being unstable, and I saw slide activity that had happened on the slopes of Cascade and Johannesburg. So, I bagged it. Then again, I was just guessing. I might've pussed out early. By the way, the road is gated at the 20 mile marker. There's been more rockslides on the road (one in particular that comes to mind), and I'd expect that the road will continue to be gated until they get that cleaned up, even after the road dries out.

Was going up to check out the area, and maybe get something done. We were surpised by the amount or new powder up there; it was obvious relatively quickly up there that nothing would be "in"; I snapped some photos of the area; thought I would share. Enjoy, y'all. These are the small photos...I've noticed that people don't like their photos HUGE here, so if you want the hi-res versions (really big, really high def), they're in my gallery, probably under my user name, I'd imagine.