Chad_A

any word on those pics?

A trick that you can use with nylon webbing is folding an end into a v-shape and melting it into that shape permanently with a lighter (assuming you're making a piece or two to have on your harness before you're on the climb.) This helps your v-thread tool grab it a bit easier. I have no problem rapping off an Abalakov made with 16cm screws, in good ice. I believe Craig Luebben's book has some good test info on v-threads; can't remember any numbers off the top of my head. Not that I'd recommend it, but my pal had to retreat off a face in Peru a year or two ago with v-threads made with a 10cm stubby. Guess you take what you can get if the ice gets a bit sketchy.

Wow, purty Thanks for posting the pic and info.

Out of your league :lmao: Just kidding dude! Sorry couldn't resist! Check yer PMs for location Haha! You're not sayin' much, because it doesn't take much to be out of my league, heh heh....I'll check the PM. Thanx!

Nice TR. Where is Starvin' Marvin?

Shit, I'd like to know that story.

Check your PMs...

While I'm uploading photos, here's some from today; took a walk up to I-Saddle to see what the Reid was looking like these days. Enjoy yourself, it's a celebration (bitches).

Haha, well, the rest of us are mere mortals, Superman! Good for you for getting out. It's funny you should say...on the way home, I took a look at the stuff that was there, and I told my pal "it's climbable...if you're Marcus or Wayne". Go figure:) Anyway, here's some pics I snapped on the way through the Gorge this evening. The Ainsworth area looks incredible.

Ooohh, looks like fun

How much off the top of the price, if we include a picture of a girlfriend? Granted, not my girlfriend...could be someone else's.

Mike, Three years ago, diagnosed with achilles tendinitis, and plantar fascitis, r/t too much trail running on shoes that didn't fit my foot pattern. Doc did the big no-no and gave me a cortisone shot in my achilles, and it worked. Orthotics seemed to have helped the whole issue, overall. No aching in the bottom of the feet, etc. On the other hand, I invested in a 30 dollar pair of "Sole" thermomoldable inserts, and I have them in my Alphas, and have done some long days in them, with no worries. Overall, not sure what good the 350 dollar custom orthotics have done for me.

Last year, I started my first year of ice, with Quarks and Clipper leashes. Didn't use the hand pommels, either; used strictly leashes. Over the fall, I experimented with the hand pommels in the crevasses, and grew to like them alot. On toprope, I practiced, and got to know the advantages (no leash restricting the bloodflow of the hand, being able to switch hands, learning to use the leashless feature to drop my hands quickly to keep them warm, etc, etc) and quickly realized I wouldn't want to go back to leashes anytime soon. After a trip to Hyalite and another to Canada, I've spent some time with a set of Ergos that I picked up cheap last spring, used. They are absolutely a joy to climb with, and the versatility is amazing. Admittedly, it helps that the tool matches my natural tendency to swing hard. It has a wonderful headweight to it; just get that weight ripping, and the tool does all the work for you. I don't worry about dropping a tool, and neither do my partners (they mainly climb leashless, as well.) I'd suggest trying it and making a decision for yourself. I won't engage in a pissing match about whether it's aid climbing or not; I really don't give a shit.

Then Americans need to suck it up and make the requisite 13 hour road trip. Too cold? Bullshit

Tonight: Snow showers likely in the evening...then a chance of snow showers. Colder. Snow accumulation up to 1 inch. Lows 20 to 25. West wind 5 to 15 mph. Thursday: Partly sunny. Colder. Highs 25 to 30. East wind 5 to 10 mph. Thursday night: Mostly clear. Lows 15 to 20. East wind 15 to 25 mph cascade locks westward...and east wind 10 mph near hood river. Friday: Mostly sunny. Highs around 30. East wind 15 to 20 mph cascade locks westward..and light wind near hood river.. Friday night: Mostly clear. Lows 20 to 25. East wind 10 to 20 mph cascade locks westward..and light wind near hood river.. Saturday: Partly sunny. Highs 30 to 35. Saturday night: Partly cloudy. Lows 20 to 25. After this, it gets reasonably warmer, again. I guess things could set up, but driving through the gorge last night made me think that the best chance would be to stick to the "weepy" climbs. Most of the stuff out there that are substantial flows are running at a very good rate...start looking for the nooks and crannies, and maybe something will be found. Obvious? Probably... Now for another beer.

I'll bet Jim at PMS had climbed with AztarExs, but I could be wrong. Might want to ask him. And, as far as the BullDog goes, that seems to be the going rate for them (I have a set, my first tools, and I won't even try to sell them)

Thanks for the continual input on the jackets. Looking forward to picking something up tonight...

Will take a look at this too.

Hmm, no, haven't seen that one yet. Still haven't bought anything yet, so I'll take a look at that as well.

What? Oleg on Hood? No! Just kiddin; Good job; love that route. Best bang for the buck on the west side of Hood, IMHO. Nice pics, too

It might be a simple result of the same size being different in two different brands. The L Alpha Comp Hoody fit great in the Torso, but the arms were a tad short. I'm 6' even, and my ape index is about even, as well. The L Ready Mix has much longer arms; it's a tad big for me in the torso, but I don't mind that, so long as it STAYS DOWN WHEN I LIFT THE ARMS (pet peeve). Could be I'm comparing apples to oranges. If I see a Figure Four on the rack when I'm at the store this week, I'll try that on as well. Might, in fact, be cut different.

No, not really. Thanks for the reply. It just seems to have longer than average arm length, and a generous length, while still having the "athletic cut" that I appreciate. For shits and giggles, stopped by the US Outdoor store today to check out the Alpha Comp. Sadly, it doesn't fit me (Arms are too short). Not so bummed about the Ready Mix being a full softshell; from what you've said, it sounds like it does what I'm looking for in a jacket.

Cool, thanks much for all the posts. Good to hear that there's some nice alternatives out there. Also looking at this (Ready Mix jacket): Anybody own one? Fits really well, no jacket-lift with arms overhead, and pretty light (14oz). 199 bucks, or less for me at local retailers here with my PRG discount.

Thanks, Joseph. Took a drive throught the Gorge with visiting family yesterday; interesting looking smears up there. No, not climbable, but interesting to see what could potentially form up.

http://www.blackdome.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=31 Not very pretty, and wouldn't want to climb anything too terrible with them, but they're cheap and easy to find. Looks like they're available from 40-50 cm lengths.