ashw_justin

WTF? 7.1a+

The nice thing about not hiring a guide is that you can make your own schedule. I hired a guide for Cotopaxi in Ecuador, and it was either climb in a snowstorm, or not climb at all and forfeit the fee. Me hice una berga! And of course, the following five days were perfect. (also notice highly technical mountaineering apparel)

throat freshiez

Two quickdraws are the standard, locking biners if you want to be really safe. The self-equalizing action of the "magic X" also leads to extension should one anchor point fail, this is understood to be a bad thing. Of course if the anchors are as bomber as they should be, you'd expect your gear to fail first, and even this is highly unlikely in a toprope situation unless there is unusual crossloading or rock contact on your gear. Specifically regarding your partner's setup, the problem with that is there is only one sling holding the setup together, so if anything goes wrong with that one sling, there is nothing backing it up. Due to the fact that is in the "magic X" configuration and not tied off at the attachment point, failure at any point in the sling will eliminate your anchor.

Yes yes, more sporto boltmonkey action at 32 this weekend. My climbing friends think I have a sport climbing problem... I think they're right...

Haha that's hilarious. But how did you know they were Argentinians?

Your link is awry. Try this: http://www.edgeworks-climbing.com

Or you can toprope easy climbs from the anchors on Repo I wall (exit 32). The guidebook gives directions.

Yeah I always ended up flipping about 50 times a day while kayak surfing. Definitely good rolling/bracing practice. On the flip side, don't go out into the break if you can't roll. I had to rescue a guy who got stuck in a riptide, flipped, couldn't roll, and swam. It took me a long time to drag the dude to shore (it was a strong rip current), all the while getting pounded by the surf and having to roll with a guy holding on to my boat. Oh and he wasn't wearing a life jacket. Oh yeah and watch out for surfers. They're defenseless.

Man, there's a lot more hikers up there than climbers... did you leave a note or something?

Check this site out if you haven't already: http://www.deceptioncrags.com/

Dang, it rained at 38? We were at exit 32 most of the day and it stayed dry. There is a wall that stays dry in the rain by virtue of its overhanging nature.

Not yet... I was thinking that I could just screw together and bolt up a bunch more scrap pieces of 2x4 though. Then again, do I really want people flying around with sharp objects in my garage?

(edited to remove old pictures)

I think it's pretty simple. If you still don't think that wearing a helmet is a good idea, then the thought of several quarts of blood gushing out of your head must not bother you. Me, I don't like the sound of that. But I also don't like the idea of falling at all. You could still fall and break your leg and bleed to death, even with a helmet on. As much as it's a good idea to wear a helmet (and it is), it's an even better idea to do what you have to in order to prevent a fall from happening in the first place. Now I know in our modern sporto/bouldermonkey world people end up falling as much as (or more than) they climb, this is of course necessary in order to work insanely difficult and acrobatic moves. But then hitting your head is a lot less likely on this type of rock, as it is usually very steep (i.e. you fall away from the wall), the pro is safe, or can be stick-clipped, or in the case of bouldering, you have spotters and strategically placed crash pads. So not very many people wear helmets sport climbing and bouldering, and this is understandable. Trad, alpine, and ice climbing are different. Ice climbing is obvious. Alpine climbing is almost as obvious, although a caveat to the helmet issue there is that you simply don't fall on an alpine route. But you still need a helmet for rockfall. Trad climbing, while in the right hands can be just as safe or safer than sport climbing, is pretty hazardous if you're not careful. You have to set all your own pro, which can sometimes be difficult, and sometimes this pro will fail. Hence falls can be unpredictable, and the carnage potential is a lot higher. On top of that, you've already loaded a crapload of gear onto your body, so how much more is really going to bother you to put a helmet on? It's more comfortable than the 16 cams hanging on your shoulder. One more thing--and I don't want to sound like I'm nitpicking, because this is pretty important--on a crag climb (sport or trad) the belayer should spot the leader (as in bouldering) until the leader can clip into their first pro.

So is it the actual crunching that's most annoying, or is it when she shakes and taps the cup, slurping for another tasteless morsel? Sorry, couldn't help it. Sounds like an oral fixation.

You're all full of shit if you think you can debunk scientific findings without actually being familiar with the studies themselves. It's actually quite easy to read a scientific paper and tell whether their assumptions, methods, and interpretations hold merit. The problems arise when people who know nothing about science pretend to understand, merely to justify their agenda. The typical politician has no idea how (let alone the time) to critically analyze a scientific study, and doesn't give a shit about the scientific method unless it involves his fundraising and/or his re-election.

That's it dude, I'm loosening a few crux holds on the home wall, and I'm not telling you which ones!

Oh ok that's central, I was thinking Indian Beach because he's going to Cannon Beach. That or Short Sands.

Where's otter rock? I've been to Indian Beach (Ecola Park) and that gets some good waves.

Yeah the scene description is convincing enough on the helmet issue, no need to beat a dead horse... (luckily, this time that phrase is not in poor taste)

Oh yeah well you're a special case. I got a "Bodyslam-full-nelson-ringlock-bigbird-backstand " waiting for ya next time

The internet: where everybody is pretend invincible. Previous generations didn't have this, they just had to play dungeons and dragons. Cowboys and indians, should you be one of those kinds.

I'd love to see you argue here for once without inevitably threatening to kick somebody's butt. edit: hey where did that last post come from!

Protests? I thought this was the I'm a big tough guy up way past my bedtime thread? Hatred is stupid, mob mentality is stupid. But voting is like, so boring and unradical, man!