John Frieh

And it's not my fault I climb harder routes than you. And what's worse? Someone who posts useful information in a supposed "arrogant" way or someone who posts random one liners related to nothing and inside jokes that maybe 4 people on the board get? It comes down to what you can tolerate. Yes there is some climbing in OR but... it pales in comparison to what WA and CAN have in my opinion. You might actually enjoy short approaches to graham crackers castles... I don't. Even the Bauman brothers will tell you: the majority of the routes they pioneered are not worth repeating. Or at least that’s what they told me.

actually Scott Flavelle used to use a 100m 9mm rope, the leader ran out 100m pitches on easier ground and doubled up and climbed 50m pitches on harder ground. Word up. I do that a lot with a single 8.6 mm 70. Does anyone know who makes offers 80 m+ ropes?

If you are getting rope drag with a half rope system it is your own fault... one of the man advantages of a half rope system is it almost eliminates rope drag. chucK: Obviously there is a fine line between saving time on # of belays vs rack weight... Steve House and friends opted for an 85 m rope on a few of the climbs they did the ruth gorge... I would love to get a pair of 80s but haven't found any yet... but that's me...

And if it was alpine it would be less bolts for me to chop.

Actually we all drive to WA... Don't forget: OR sucks for the type of fall climbing that merits TRs... Give it a few weeks and you should see a few other Hood slogs trickle in.

Don't ruin this thread with arguments over what is alpine... if you guys want to discuss what is alpine start another thread.

WA pass isn't alpine... its just another road side crag just like those in Yosemite... only smaller. Each route will dictate what rope, or lack of, system/length works best... Unless AJ is a trust fund baby chances are he can only afford initially one system... a pair of 60s will do him fine.

What about the hotwires?

The bottom line: we each have all found a certain length that works for us... here are a few TRs I wrote that illustrate why I like 70 m ropes. Don't click them if you don't want to. TR in which linking pitches with a 70 m allowed me to do 3 routes in a day. TR in which linking pitches with a 70 m allowed me to do 2 routes in a day. I avoided a hanging belay on the girth pillar with 70 m ropes and did the pillar in 2 pitches instead of the 3 the guidebook calls for. Numerous other examples exist... Consider reading Twight's discussion on rope lengths/diameter in extreme alpinism... he makes some good points. ChucK makes a good point: if you are new to alpine you will struggle initially with rope management; 70s might be a bit much. 60 might be a good compromise unless you feel certain you can stay diligent in your rope management.

Look at the gear critic thread on mammut ropes; this should help you. How young are you? I'm a youngin (though I am starting to push the limits of what is considered young) also; drop me a line if you are looking for more partners and have an interest in alpine...

People! He is asking about single ropes for alpine climbing ... not clipping bolts at the local crag! The whole reason to have 60 or 70 m ropes in the mtns is: You make your own belays! The less belays you have to make the faster you will climb the route which will make it safer for you! A longer rope allows for less lead swapping! And if you get on some genuine big routes and fail; you can chop rap anchors off the ends of your rope instead of having to carry 50-60’ of rap webbing. Buy at least a 60 if you plan to climb alpine routes.

If you have a history of speeding tickets...I wouldn’t show as judges have the right to raise the ticket amount to "teach a lesson"... you would qualify for a “lesson” at 98. If this is your first one swear up and down how this is uncharacteristic of you and request the driving school option… though this would require yet another trip to OR. You can appeal to the court via mail (you explain your case/situation in mail and they write you back and let you know your options); I would recommend this if you plan to fight it. If you plead not guilty; you will have to come back and hope that the cop doesn’t show… chances are he will… only 1 ticket in the weekend? amateur.

Didn't BD start making wnm's specific gloves this year? Might be worth the look...

Post #398179... where is my email reply? Nothing personal... I would just like to have a few of my questions answered... as probably everyone who sent you an email.

You mean there is a board out there that bans people for their opinions? I wonder if the admins on that site actually keep there promises and reply to emails... assuming they promised they would in spray (or as they call it on that page battlecage)

You are very perceptive... thanks. And no: I won't hit you next time our paths cross... unless the grilling on the page picks up again...

3 weeks of what? Mountaineering? Alpine rock? Where are you going?

Well then you should have nothing to worry about then Rudy... so next time sack up and shake my hand.

Hulked out? All the binging and purging you sportos do to fit into your tights gives you about as much muscle mass as I have in my left nut. If you guys are so weak you can’t use a 10.5 for a redpoint attempt what makes you think you can throw me in the river?

I only hit men... You probably would have gotten a bitch slap.

Nope... haven't registered... I have a hard enough time keeping up with this page. Why didn't you come over and introduce yourself Rudy?

Dear Ascensionist: There’s a new Internet based climbers’ resource—Ascensionist.com. An alternative to other climbing Bulletin Board Systems (e.g., cc.com, etc.); less bickering and BS; more talk of climbing. You’ve received this e-mail because I’ve hand selected you to participate in Ascensionist.com. Please help the popularity and usefulness of the site by registering a username and posting trip reports, conditions, and discussion of all things climbing (access issues, etc.). Naturally, with any new BBS, Ascensionist.com will initially lack content, but with your help this will change. I believe it’s time for a better climbers’ resource; a resource where climbers don’t have to wade through 10 pages of non non sequiturs and useless posts to get to information related to climbing; and a place where people aren’t censored or banned for expressing climbing views and opinions that aren’t mainstream. Ascensionist.com isn’t yet perfected by any means; as the site’s popularity increases, and as I receive user feedback, I will change the site (whether by adding categories, or by implementing greater functionality), to best suit its users. Thank you for taking the time to read this message and please visit: Ascensionit.com! Thanks, The Ascensionist P.S. Please invite anyone you know who can contribute positively to register a username.

Did anyone else get an invite to this board? Just think: you can chest beat and spray twice as much... And all you sprayers better hurry up and go register the_nodder before anyone else gets them...

Do you plan on hauling with one of the lines while the second jugs the other? Do you plan on more alpine rock or alpine snow/ice (or both)? And I second Dru's reverso recommendation...

Mtntools.com has an excellent head to head rope comparison page... Their stock in ropes at times can be iffy (I would caution you against back ordering from them). I looked at the page and it seems mammut has higher impact forces… hmmm. The other thing you should look at is g/meter… though diameter is generally a good guide to how much a rope will weight some companies will offer a super skinny rope, say 9.7, but if you check the g/meter you see that it weights as much as other companies 10.5 ropes… Maxim was notorious for this… they offered a 9.7 and would tout how great the rope was as it could handle twice as many maximum falls as other companies offering in the same diameter but if you checked the g/meter you saw the thing was nothing more than a 10.5 posing as a skinny rope. Take home message: make sure your skinny rope actually matches in weight. As you are only doing ice I would get something in the 7.7 - 8.6 range in either half or twin if weight is a big issue (alpine/multipitch) and if it is not (ice cragging) get something beefier (8.5-9.7) for longevity. If you think you might do some alpine rock get something at the range of 8.5... smaller diameter ropes (8.1 or smaller) tend to get super fuzzy super fast if you drag them up a lot of rock or your partner jugs them... (then again a smaller rope diameter might deter them from jugging). And ropes twisting is generally due to the belay device… not the weave… Hope this helps.