John Frieh

The Roots Tipping Point is for sure hot but 2004 is all Madvillain... "The best emcee with no chain ya ever heard." Good luck finding a better hip-hop album this year, mainstream, undie, or otherwise.

D00d! Just a few of the topos from in there... that should be more than enough to get stoked... mmm... Mt Dickey... Wine Bottle Route... If you want I have some of the older AAJ or mountain back issues I could photocopy... the mountain article about Mug Stumps and Jim Bridwell's ascent of Dance of the Woo Li Masters should get the blood flowing (or get you to cancel your flight). I am fairly certain Alpinist has quite a few photos on their site...

Who is bringing ice? As people are coming at different times (Thursday night, Friday morning, Friday night) can we get people from each time to bring ice? I can bring some Friday night.

Because bolting isn't black and white... its appropriateness varies situation to situation. Most people feel a 6 bolt anchor is to much. Bolts are okay if you can’t naturally protect the route. Done.

Who is hiking out there this weekend? I heard Greg W was willing. Anyone else?

We want to hold people accountable for their actions. We will do this by first raising the issue with them and if this does not result in the appropriate corrective response we will elevate to public awareness as most likely they will want this to not happen. How's that?

Word Dave. People should post replies they get in this thread. Can people also spread the word to other boards?

As of last Tuesday the snow line was itswoot ridge coming in from the dome side. There was an average (much deeper in some places) of a foot of snow before one even got on the Dome glacier... I think the fresh snow will seriously slow you down to the point that you might make it in 4 days but you will be doing some serious slogging and probably not much climbing…

No but you don't need to belay in double/half rope config.... ie belayer doesn't need to have both lead ropes in device as leader leads... one rope is fine. Scenario: Leader should be belayed on 1 rope; as leader leads pitch she/he should clip both ropes through each piece. At end of pitch put both singles into the anchor (therefore leader should be tied in to both ropes) and belay both second simultaneously using reverso or other comparable device. First follower unclips his/her rope out of each piece making sure to not take second followers rope out of piece while doing so. Second follower, who should stay 20-30' behind first follower or risk inserting head into first followers ass if first follower were to fall (Brock are you reading this?) and clean all pieces. If done correctly can be almost as fast as a party of 2. Make sense?

How about this? Have you ever played Drunk Guy Jenga? You keep putting stuff on a drunk piece of shit and whoever wakes him up loses. This particular session shot off to a ballsy start when Leigh did the unprecedented move of putting a human being on the guy. After that it was on. We got a pear in his mouth, then a lit cigarette, then balanced a big pile of junk on his ear and even graced his face with a pair of balls. Previous games have involved slightly more illegal moves like putting out a cigarette on the guy... Discuss.

Are you going to be on the North side of Stuart this weekend? If so... PM me... Jim Nelson/I needs a huge photo favor. Many s if you can help. Thanks for not spraying on this.

I'm right there with you... got feed the rat... just keep telling yourself good ice is still a few weeks off... Do a pull up or something everytime you check the status of you shipment... might as well turn it into something positive.

Colchuck or DT it is. Or Ingalls.

Man Pete you must love your new job...

I thought he said glacier was a requirement? If not Prusik in a day would be great (or anything in there) as oktoberfest is in full swing in 11worth...

Forbidden is the first climb that pops into my mind when I read your requirements...

OldMan: the north face has been done but only in winter so far. I mailed your pics today... enjoy! As far as last great remaining problems (Michael Layton... you like bullshit choss routes... this one is all you) the other butt on the back (NNW I believe) is unclimbed... would make for a true soul searching first few hundred feet as it is that reddish lava flow rock (no cracks) with chicken heads in it. I have pics if you want them Michael… And Wayne: the whole route felt like A5 soloing… especially all the pitches above the saddle… agreed?

Have you used ascenders before or can you follow 5.10/11? All my partners for the weekend are disappearing...

What's the dope? Anybody climbed it? Know if the bolts have been replaced or are they quarters? Any info would be great!

This means UPS has your info (shipping address) and will bill sportextreme.com upon shipping. The order exists... it will just take a little bit to ship... remember UPS generally ships at night so the status won't change until late tonight... Man you got some serious wood for the ice or something...

Rent a it will still be cheaper... especially if you rally 4 people to split costs... nothing like a rental and gravel roads

Remember they are in Europe so responses generally come the next day. I would think an internet site that big would have sent you an order conformation... did you get one at the time of checkout? If so reference that in an email and maybe even call them and leave a message or something. Did your CC get billed yet? When I ordered from them I got an order confirmation and tracking number but shipping took forever due to customs. Hope this helps!

I think the BD version is kinda sketchy based on a few experiences I have had or observed: 1) If one attaches the leash and jerks it repetitively against the buckle/attachment system you can generally get it to release... kinda similar to ski bindings releasing in a minor slip. I can't get my clippers to do this but unfortunately the clipper is petzl specific unless you trust your drilling skills... 2) A few people have reported (either on this page or in person) that if the attachment system becomes deformed (especially the spring) it will pop randomly or slightly loaded. As the clipper's moving parts is contained inside the clip and the clip is a little more streamlined than the android leash I think (merely speculation) the clipper is going to hold up a little better over time. Time will tell I guess... Regardless I think this year in the mtns I will be using a grivel double spring… as long as I don’t hang from it it will do the same thing a leash should do… decreasing the likelihood of a dropping tool.

Yeah but you can fly SW right now one way from PDX to SLC or Boise for 39 bucks which is about the same you will spend in gas but not have to sit through 10 hours of car time... City anyone? I have never climbed at the NM city but the ID city stays good as late as Nov... all depends on the snow... and with Castle Rock open... hmmm.

The catch is what type of ice you are climbing... water, blue, glacier, etc... the bevel/pick modifications will matter more in some situations... I would highly recommend reading Will Gadd's book... his pick modification section is excellent prose (in addition to his tips for training). Alternatively you can likely find some info on his site; some good info on pick and ice screw sharpening can also be found on the Montana ice site written by Conrad Anker. Finally if you have back issues of climbing and/or rock and ice Gadd generally wrote the training/technique articles which are basically a condensed form of his book. If you don’t have access to back issues I could photocopy them for you.