John Frieh

Bibler Fitzroy.

The 1st pitch of NW face is thin and rotten. If one could manage to levitate the first pitch or push an alternate start the upper portion of the route looked more "in". Triple C looks worse then it did in both Feb. and March. Ice in Stuart Glacier Couloir is much fatter then last year and should stay in at least through the end of the month if not longer (pending weather patterns). Some avy acitivity on north facing slopes. Be careful out there! Yo Mikey! Did you get your FA?

So hook it up! Send me some directions to something you'd like to see cleaned or don't care about...

pms

Would you be willing to show me around?

4

Next session will be Tuesday May 10th 3:30ish – pump. Don't forget: you don't need to have anything beyond a pair of boots and some interest... I have extra pons, tools, etc... just let me know! And as it is staying light out plenty late these days you can't use that "I don't climb in the dark" excuse anymore so unless you PDX turds are willing to admit to an American Idol obsession I expect to see more of you out there! 541.231.2062. Holla!

I have 3 but they all cost me an arm and a leg. Ebay is generally the only solution unless you know some one who has some old gear lying around and wouldn't mind parting with it (the later being the crux). Not that it is any of my business but what do you have in store for it?

Bump Bump Bump. Calling all newbies, lurkers, and anybody else looking to meet potential new climbing partners, catch up with old ones, or find out if someone's online behavior matches their real life personality cc.com picnic this Thursday and Smith Rock Spring Thing this weekend! Get out and meet some new people! See you there!

Does anybody have a topo for the rap wall at snoqualmie pass? Ratings preferred. If you do post it here or send it to me. TIA!

Thanks everyone for some insightful discussion… much appreciated! To clarify it sounds like everyone is echoing the same sediment: dting on crown would be acceptable if I stayed off the established routes however the argument was made why dt on the crown at all if a large number of other viable options exist that have not seen the establishment of any climbing (of any kind) routes. Would that be a correct generalization? Assuming it is I would agree completely. My question and proposal was spurred by a comment made by Ivan one day last year when we were driving to Horse Thief: what if the gorge was granite and not basalt? Or just more sound basalt? My conclusion (I could and generally am wrong) would be the gorge would be home to a lot more climbing and would be a much more desirable climbing destination. But why sit and stew over rock type or composition that doesn’t match one’s climbing interests? What am I getting at? Lots of choss? Drytool routes! And why the crown? No reason… it just happened to fit my criteria: 1) the closer to Portland the better (close enough to be able to hit it after work and still finish before dark) 2) easy approach (supports the after work requirement) 3) either potential for tall (multipitch) and moderate (somewhere in the M6 neighborhood) or shorter (single pitch) Mhard (i.e. super overhung). And most importantly: 4) something no one is going to get pissed I bolted it or dt on it. As I will be staying off the crown does anyone has some crags in mind that meet this criteria? Send me the info! I’d like to put some routes in as soon as possible. Thanks again for the insightful spray free discussion. See you out there! John

LR is the DC of the north side of Rainier.

I envision multipitch drytool routes that top out... obviously if people wanted they could free climb these routes also. If natural protection is unavailable or X rated I would equip the routes with fixed gear (ground up of course) and belay station anchors. As Crown isn't wicked overhanging and the terrain as far as I can tell at this point isn't extreme I think it could potentially harbor some fine moderate multipitch drytool routes for individuals (such as myself) relatively new to the whole dt thing and are interested in developing further their dt skills... especially endurance building on long routes (something rocky butte lacks). Would drytooling these routes of "historical value" deface their value? Should I stay off them all together? Anybody else care to comment? Where? Hook it up! Ty: check your pms!

Anybody want to DT tonight, tomorrow or maybe Wednesday night? Call me: 541-231-2062

So I’ve been in PDX a little over a year now… during that time I’ve crossed paths with a handful of people who have either climbed at Crown Point or know some one who has. It would be my conclusion that the consensus opinion about the crown is that it is home to a few “moss covered choss” routes which got me thinking: why let a potentially great crag (how many other opportunities besides Beacon offer multipitch opportunities near PDX?) go unused because the rock is shitty? What I am getting at here is how do people feel about multipitch drytool routes on the crown? More specifically: Should the crown remain a trad/aid crag only? Why or why not? Would the addition of drytool routes be acceptable? Why or why not? Would drytooling existing rock climbing routes on the crown be acceptable? Why or why not? If you feel the crown is a quality rock climbing destination why is it that it is not included in the Portland Rock Climbs guidebook? And if not the crown are their other areas on the gorge that would be acceptable (developed or not)? I know the road cut just west of the dalles could potentially house 30 or so 2-4 pitch climbs. Thanks in advance for constructive dialogue espicially from those who have climbed routes on the crown.

Any PDXers who want to carpool let me know. Hey all you lurkers, newbies, and anyone who suffers from a lack of partners! This is an excellent opportunity to meet people who are looking to go climbing! Bring some beers and start recruiting! See you there!

I should be around to organize one for Thursday night this week... anybody interested? Ivan: can you hold one Wednesday or Tuesday this week? I know Mac can come out... Post something if you think you are going to... From Sunday: Jason (Illini) working the flake Jason (Illini) on 8 stitches Mac on 8 stitches the bitch PS: It is staying light quite late these days... where are all the people who said they would climb once it stayed light out later?

Anybody want to drytool Sunday morning (April 24th)? Call me! before & after

Couloir should stay in through weekend but do not attempt to climb unless you are there right at sunrise... climbing it in the sun wouldn't be a good decision at this point. Fixed gear still there. Lots of avy activity in the mountains... be careful out there.

Regrettably I will be climbing up north all week so I can't make it out there this week unless the weather turns shitty and I come back early. Ivan knows where all the routes are out there so if you bug him I bet he'd be stoked to show off his mad drytooling skills... magical crampons or not... Hey Ivan! Organize something! Colorado chick, McKenzie and I enjoyed 4 hours of dt goodness in the hail, rain, and mud yesterday

Weather window starting Monday night... what are you waiting for?

Hope I am not too late but my friend has a pair of the old blue ones in great shape. Call me if interested: 541.231.2062

McKenzie, Ivan and I will be at Rocky starting around 3:30ish on Wednesday... come see how much of a cluster fuck whimper fest drytool leads on trad gear can be...

Lucky dog... If I had more time I'd head down in a second! Anything on the north america west coast! Holla back! Make sure to call me instead of a pm as I am not spending as much time on line as before...

I have next 3 weeks to climb climb climb before I report for the new job. Climb with me? Call me: 541.231.2062. Please don't spray on this thread... there are plenty of fine ones you could piss on in spray. Thanks!