John Frieh

Oldmanrock might recognize this… I tried them out this weekend… those of the old school will perennially be badass in my mind. I don’t know how you guys did it. Thanks again and let me know if you find any other good stuff lying around .

Tube chock (# 6 for reference)... I have 5 of these in various sizes. The good for alpine offwidths... leave big green at home. I have no idea how old these are but I would guess older than me. Some one needs to start making these again... Fern?

Combine that with either/both nw corner or w face of NEWS as the lex descent would spit you out right at the start of either of those and you would have a grade A dope shit day out. All the pitches on either one of those routes on NEWS are so short you can link 'em with a 70 easily. I’ll shoot BP a pm… thanks again d00d!

Agreed. Those bolts don't belong... though does anyone know if the original party placed them? Currently there are 2 3/8" metolius fatties. And speaking of Lexington bolts does anyone know if tooth and claw has been retrobolted? Thanks for the beta on freedom.

Sweet! I want to climb Freedom Rider bad… Good to hear its quality. The 2x6 is rotten... at least the one I clipped in July was (or whenever it was I climbed it this summer). I pulled on the webbing that was threaded through the hole in it and the 2x6 cracked so unless someone has replaced it I wouldn't trust it. If you are climbing the route a 6" piece of something (wood, etc) or the new BD # 6 camalot is adequate... a # 5 camalot is too small. I used a # 6 (6 inch) tube chock and had no problems.

East Face of Lexington. We linked it up with SEWS SW rib for a full day of fun... if you wanted to hold your own offwidth rally bash fest thing you should climb the east face of lex, walk off the west side and then climb the NW corner of NEWS (it would be right there) for a full day of offwidth sampling... that would be a h00t! There are some other photos in my gallery.

Next session is Wednesday Feb 2nd 3:30ish - pump... if you would like a second session let me know. Please PM me if you are planning on attending and what, if any gear you need to borrow. Newbies are welcome and encouraged. Also: Being that I am a fat bastard I broke a significant hold off the right hand route Friday making the much more engaging (sorry Ivan).

Tube chocks are your friend!

I have never complained... who ever it was that was prompted to contact you was under their own steam (unless Pandora asked them too). Perhaps you should ask the mod what prompted it… I would be curious to know. And with that said I think assuming Pandora has the same sense of humor/thickness of skin I do would be a stretch...

She knows we are just funnin'... man you guys are uptight these days... And you guys have got to get something else to raz me about beside the GP... that shit is like 6 months fresh... Offwidths huh?

What do you need a zipper for? Zippers add weight! http://www.nunatakusa.com/

Best screw on the market

Chicks dig buckskin. I'm surprised you turds haven't figured it out yet...

You wish you had something long enough that it could droop under its own weight biznatch! How does it feel knowing a d00d with a supposed big ego and a small droopy gets more than the rest of you turds!? Better start working on your heigh hos! Hey Rudy... make sure to put how much "offwidth experience" you have on your resume!

Porky the pig wasn't a disney character dumbass! Maybe they need a peter the pan climber!

Maybe if one of the seven dwarfs was a climber you could get a job. Heck... if their was a gay dwarf MisterE and you could be coworkers! I can see you two now... "Heigh-ho, Heigh-ho... it's off to climb we go"

What about the Annabelle mountie photo madness? Gaper Timmy still has the classic photo as his avatar photo... People should link these...

yeah...but the 5.9 part rules you out! D00d! I stand a better chance then getting to the top then you! Its multipitch...! You'd pump out from actually having to climb for more than 35 m.

Finally... A job for Pandora or Fox.

That's DJ onsight to you biznatch.

If it’s in the guidebook I stay off it even if the guidebook says avoid the route because its crap. If it isn't in the guidebook but looks like someone might want to climb it at some point I stay off it. Never hurts to get a second opinion when deciding this. If it isn't in the guidebook and is choss then I climb it. If you want a guide to rocky or other spots in PDX let me know. Or better: come on out!

Dumb question - how do you find such routes ? Is it a word-of-mouth kind of thing ? Depends on the area... there are guidebooks for DT areas but mostly Colorado and CAN. Around here it seems mostly word of mouth... where are you looking? Hey NY! Do you have beta for those routes? Location/directions? Rating?

Standard markup is 42% for the climbing industry (hardwear specific).

Just thing how crazy Dwayner is going right now not having the chance to whine about the evils of drytooling and how much damage it brings. Hey D!

Nice pics Matt! Carolyn: a number of the people attending are trying out drytooling more for the opportunity to be a little more familiar/prepared for any DTing they might encounter on an alpine route(s)... hence the leashes (as most of us are leashed up there). Additionally it’s a good chance to see what one can or can’t do with various combinations… I myself regularly test drive as many possible combinations that I might have in the alpine: different glove combos, mono, dual, leashed, spurs, no spurs... I think it’s a good idea for anyone to try out possible gear combinations in the safety/sanity of TR instead of an impromptu introduction on route. Hope to see some more new faces next week!