John Frieh

Totally 100% Free Free entry Free beer Free gear demo Free comp Any and all money you choose to spend on gear raffles goes to the Access Fund (unless of course you are spending your money across the street at Union Jacks )

Good catch ryland! Scott! You're fired! Just as soon as you make me another one What can I say... we did like 9 revisions of that poster and not one of us caught it... good eye man! Revision 10 is up... let me know if you find any more errors It looks like we spelled it right on rei.com

Send an email to pdxicefestival@gmail.com and maybe pick up a new rope for free

PDX Ice Festival: Read about it in the Willamette Week Everyone attending: don't forget to send an email to pdxicefestival@gmail.com to be registered in one of the raffles for a new rope! And all you out of towners... make sure you let me know if you are planning on staying at my house

Mods please move to events forum.

Downey/Bachelor Creek is more or less brush free the whole way.

Or do I just need to find a different sandbox?

Youth! I'll climb with you any day! ICE ICE ICE ICE ICE

Any word on the sphinx?

life is passing you by norton. i guess festering on a ledge freezing your ass off while spooning your partner , because you got be-nighted is a relative thing. i will be thinking about shivering on that ledge while i am fucking your mom in the ass. i bet your one of those poeple who walks around outside of cocerts with your index finger in the air, and your thumb up your ass. love, flyingpig flying pig = GregW? Capt Caveman? Gottdamerung? Hmmm...

Climb: Dragontail-Wickwire/Stanley June '71 N Face route??? Date of Climb: 9/24/2006 Trip Report: No... no... no... I know what you’re thinking and that’s not what I’m talking about... I didn’t fall in love... unless of course you count coffee which is a hot dark daily love affair for me ... but yeah… I went climbing with Daniel and Elisif Harro on Sunday (I have taken it a point to start addressing them as Team Harro) and reflecting on it made me realize the whole trip was one big lesson in love... but let me explain: Team Harro was chartered a month ago tomorrow when Daniel and Elisif Harro were married. Though I am generally known to make loud audible groaning noises generally reserved for the privacy of the bathroom after a CHA CHA CHA visit whenever someone mentions the word 'wedding' I was honestly excited for attending this matrimony. You see... it just so turns out the very first time Daniel asked Elisif out on a date he brought her to PDX drytool night! I know... I know... I couldn’t have scripted it better myself. And just when you thought it couldn’t get any better then that one of Elisif’s vows (they each wrote their own) was she promised to lead her share of the pitches... Yes I cried at the wedding. Call me a sissy boy... whatever... it was beautiful. Some highlights... Team Harro: Best Wedding Prop Ever? But wait... the climb! It just so turns out this particular trip was Elisif’s very first alpine climb ever as well as Daniel and Elisif’s first climb together as Team Harro. They both thought it appropriate to let me tag along as I was in attendance for their first date which was also Elisif’s first time drytooling. I’m willing to bet post climb they might reconsider inviting me along on future climbs but more on that later. But yeah... I have a suspicion Elisif just might fall in love with alpine climbing... I honestly hope she does as she CRUSHED. So yeah... 2 newlyweds on their first alpine climb together, her first alpine climb... if you can’t feel the love then you don’t have a pulse. Or perhaps you just haven’t had as much coffee as I have had today. But the climb. The plan was to climb Serpentine Arete c2c on sunday. As you can see from the title of this report we climbed (I think) Wickwire/Stanley June '71 N Face route... speaking of if you have climbed Wickwire/Stanley give me a shout. I suspect we climbed at least part of it but would like to compare notes with someone... But hey wait a sec NOLSe... isn’t Serpentine Arete like way right of Wickwire/Stanley? Ummm... Hey NOLSe! How did you ever manage to mistake Wickwire/Stanley for Serpentine? Ummm... If you aren’t licking your chops at the sight of new NOLSe bashing material well... it gets better. I managed 2... count them... one... TWO Marco Polo sessions on the approach. Yes I lost the trail. Twice. I can’t explain it. I’ve done the approach to Bear Mtn 2 summers running, been into Gunsight 4 times and have done the approach to Stuart Moraine in under 3 hours but crap if I didn’t lose the trail twice on the way in. Maybe I can blame in on the fact that I this was my first time in to Colchuck Lake and it was dark but frankly someone needs to revoke my alpine status. Or make just make a neutrino joke. So yeah... 2 Marco Polo sessions later we made it only to have me pick the wrong ridge. In lieu of these 2 blaring bumbles on my part as far I can tell Elisif truly enjoyed her first alpine climb. Some (okay… me) might go as far as to suggest she just might fall in love with it... time will tell I guess. And talk about an alpine baptism! 2500’ of moss, choss, snow (the last few 100’ was a couple of inches of snow and ice over choss... love it!) and me muttering “where are we…?” And the whole time Team Harro was all smiles... I can think of a few seasoned partners that would have started ing about pitch 3 (you know who you are ) Luckiest guy ever? The Alpine Prodigy: Team Harro’s first married summit: The route: Elisif: John… are you sure that is Serpentine? It doesn't really match the topo... John: Yeah... sure... of course... I’ve climbed the girth anyways. And I have a cool beanie! Donde esta Serpentine? Donde esta Serpentine? Team Harro: Snow finish: Headed home: Gear Notes: LOVE Approach Notes: MARCO... POLO! Misc: - No Elisif does not have a sister. - HUGE thanks to Daniel and Elisif for not only a great day in the mountains but giving me a new definition of what it means to be in love... I thought I had a good idea but just a day with you two definitely changed that. Thank you - Happy one month anniversary! I wish you both all the best for years to come. Maybe we can even go climbing every once and awhile - If you bump into them at PDX ICE FEST make sure to congratulate them! Music: Jenny Lewis and the Watson Twins, Mr Ritter, and some song that goes I'm bringing sexy back... (or was just me singing? )

Decide for yourself: PDX Ice Festival

If they aren't paying enough attention to think to ask if the faster party that just caught them wants to pass then why bother?

Next time don't ask just pass them. I don't understand it but it seems like north america climbers are the only ones that think you have to have the parties permission to pass them.

Nice work dude! Looks like a fine line and lots of potential in there

Likely something in the back yard... am looking into how hard it is to get rezoned as a church in PDX... Speaking of bridges... you available for some work? Email me

Dtail with Team Harro. Has anyone climbed the Wickwire/Stanley June '71 N Face route?

Yes but they fixed that by adding a stiffer bar that connects the front and back pieces. No issue since adding. Ask Roj about it at the fest. Lowa Ice Comp is very similar to the Kayland... I just got a better fit out of the Kayland. They aren't as sporty as the Mega ice but depending on how you size them you can wear them all day. Lowa has a replacement fruit boot in the works so prices should continue to drop.

Being that Roj onsights around M8ish and has redpointed M12 I would say he drives them. zoom zoom: But never doubt my ability to get caught speeding... 17 and counting

I wish VW all the best in the new location... talking with the new owner yesterday it sounds like they have some awesome improvements in the works. Thanks to Mike Palmer for hosting the Ice Fest the past five years... too bad VW won't continue the tradition. And I promise the foam will get lots of use in its new home... thanks again!

Have you been into Redoubt or Bear? Unless they clear the bush there is no way they could see you... especially on the approach to Bear... it is so bushy on that approach you have to crawl on your hands and knees in some places.

I own a pair of kayland ice comps mounted with BD raptors. The kayland came stock with the cassin ghost last year so I bought it without the crampon and mounted the raptor myself. The kayland comes stock with the raptor this year. Roger Strong (who will be at the PDX Ice Fest) drives the La Sportiva Mega Ice mounted with BD raptors. Dylan Taylor, daler, and Marcus Donaldson (who all post here) all have homemade jobs.

You could walk after one of those!?!?! What do you have a hollow leg or something?

Bosch of course