John Frieh

Name dropper! Good work dude! I know you have been looking forward to this trip all summer

Blood in the water... 1) Overall route length is a much more appropriate gauge than # of pitches... our route was over 1000' long. We employed simulclimbing and a 70 m rope to do the route in six pitches. Just because Hans Florine does the nose in 2 pitches doesn't make it a grade II. 2) Pitch ratings for us: 10-, 10+, 11-/A0 (12- free), 5.8, 5.8, 5.9. Not simulclimbing/using a 70 m rope will result in a third 10 pitch. 3) The west face of Baron Tower is a seven pitch (the same length our route will be unless others employ the same tactics we did) 5.10 grade IV put up by Reid Dowdle... someone who knows more about ratings than any of us. The west face is the same height as the south west face. 4) I would agree that the NCCS does have its shortcomings and if anything perhaps a AG would be more appropriate. However # of pitches is not a correct basis for overall grade. 5) Jordan: the route you are thinking of is the North Ridge of Baron Spire which is an 18 pitch 5.11 that is commonly considered harder, longer and more sustained than Beckey/Chouinard. Seeing the topo I would say it makes the complete N ridge of Stuart look like the W ridge of Forbidden 6) This forum doesn't have a moderator I believe... at least someone isn't listed at the bottom.

I can understand how at face value the route might seem light for a grade IV; however I can assure you it is not. Perhaps a seperate thread in the NEW ROCK CLIMBING FORUM might be appropriate... Thanks for the concern everyone.

Ozone, Beacon, Broughton, etc etc Can leave PDX around noon. 503.758.5772

September 9, 2006 • 10am – 6pm At Ecotrust, 721 NW Ninth Avenue Portland, Oregon free and open to the public More info

Ridge has been climbed.

I was talking about pics of the snowmo

How "open" is your relationship with gaperbeckey? Got any pics?

Hey if we both get the chop in two weeks we should cash out all our stock... between the two of us we should have enough to get a double wide in Stanley...

You got a snowmachine?

I should be there... what time? I wanna do Phylynx!

Sept 30th is out. PDX event that weekend.

Stehekin Bakery cinnamon rolls! I can't believe you had the will power to hold out that long... I would have eaten the thing before getting to the trailhead Good work guys!

Is the boat still running then? I am fairly certain the boat stops running in Sept... you might want to check... unless you plan on hiking What route(s)?

Blah blah blah… Earlier this summer Bryan and I agreed to do a trip in between his summer internship and the start of fall classes at MSU… We kicked around a few ideas before we settled on the Sawtooths… and why not? Josh Ritter was playing a free show on Sunday anyways… Drive all night to climb all day: Oh if only OR and WA were this progressive… Maybe I should become # 101? Carpal Tunnel… Following the climb we caught the Josh Ritter show Sunday : Josh: thanks for the awesome show and even more some great music… it has been a silent friend for me the past 6 months… thank you. More drivel: Bryan’s first alpine FA and second alpine climb ever! Looking forward to many many days in the canyon this winter as well as some more alpine trips d00d! Post climb For me forgetting the tent poles Bonus points

Climb: Baron Falls Tower – Carpal Tunnel (FA) Date of Climb: 8/19/2006 Trip Report: Summary: Baron Falls Tower – Carpal Tunnel. 5.11- A0 grade IV. John Frieh and Bryan Schmitz August 19th 2006. SW Face of Baron Falls Tower: Note:Due to foreshortening upper pitches appear to be shorter than lower pitches. All pitches with the exception of 4.5 and 6 were a full 60 meters and in most cases 70 meters. We would recommend (and used) a 70 though a 60 is adequate. Pitch 1: Start in the right of the two chimneys on the sw face. Climb to the top of the chimney and exit left into the left hand chimney. Continue to the top of the chimney until roof flakes force one right and up. Belay at a tree. Pitch 2: Aim for RF dihedral that turns into wide flake. Continue up open book. Belay when rope runs out. Pitch 3: Move up through series of roof to a slab move right into a left facing corner finger crack. Follow up to ledge. Pitch 4: Angle up and right until able to turn corner and down climb 20’ to ledge next to dyke below large chock stone. Pitch 4.5 Walk up dyke until a point where one can find a way to climb up onto the top of the chock stone. Belay here. Pitch 5: Climb onto top of chock stone. Exit chock stone on right and continue up and right. Belay when rope runs out. Pitch 6: Climb short finger crack in left facing dihedral. Top out. Gear Notes: Approach Notes:

bump If you are in there this weekend would you be kind enough to snap me a pic or two? Thanks!

Sawtooths Aug 18th-21st. If you are interested in pooling give me a shout. BYOP (partner) as we aren't looking for a third at this point...

Bridges are for climbing Bryan!

First Recorded Ascent Yup Hard. Especially since we had none of these: Wait till you get to pitch 4

Climb: Elephant Perch - Various Date of Climb: 8/14/2006 Trip Report: What Would Jesus Eat??? Bible Bar of course! More on Bible Bar below… Similar to how a bear or will gorge itself in the late summer and early fall to fatten up for the long cold winter a wise winter alpinist or ice climber will do the same on challenging but enjoyable rock climbs that offer short approaches and easy descents, excellent position and setting… or more succinctly: pure rock bliss. Doing so should more adequately prepare one for the darker moments of winter… that is when it comes time to suffer (and it will) one has a number of excellent examples at hand to answer such important questions as 1) why exactly do I climb again? or 2) has this ever been fun? and other such pressing questions that seem to arise... Marcus and I headed to the sawtooths in search of just that: pure rock bliss. Marcus snuck out of work early and called me to move up the departure time only to find me unpacked and drinking beer at a dog’s birthday party… Why he tolerates climbing with me I’ll never know… Alas I threw some stuff in the car and we pointed it east around midnight. A lot of red bull, coffee, Lucinda Williams, Jenny Lewis and the Watson Twins, Blood Meridian and Mr Ritter carried us through the night to Stanley around 10ish. A quick stop at the SBC for quite possible one of the dankest breakfast burritos I’ve had in awhile and we caught the boat. To reduce our carbon footprint we opted for the lower impact approach: Note: check out the look on snorkel boy’s face At the other end of the lake 2 hours of hiking was followed by 2 days of granite… some highlights: trad girls rock my socks: And how could I forget??? Bible Bar! For you males out there… if you thought the side effects of eating Luna Bars were weird wait till you try Bible Bar! For those of you at home who aren’t familiar with what a Luna Bar is basically it is a power or energy bar made to meet the specific nutrition needs of women. More info on Luna Bars: I’ll say this… Bible Bar will be standard issue for all my future trips! That and Ezekiel's Fire for the really cold bivies! Gear Notes: Bible Bar and Approach Notes/Generic Beta: You can get your weight and fortune for a penny at the redfish lodge! Josh Ritter plays this Sunday ! More Sawtooth Beta here:

Great work you guys! Tasty granite... huh!?! The correct crack system through the roof on the second pitch of Nelson's route was very difficult for us to identify also. The one that ended up working for us was on the climbers left... you can see a good photo of it in the 4th photo down in Blake's TR here: Did you guys walk across the top of the cannonhole? Sweet little ridge route... huh? Hey Blake: So much for it going unrepeated for 20 years Goatboy: Blake and I rated the ridge 5.8 and encountered very similar terrain to what Frosty is describing. A small disclaimer though is as one can bypass some of the towers on either side the potential for finding harder terrain exists. It took us a few hours from the notch (where you bivyed on your sinister attempt). Fun climb! Great TR you guys! Nice pics!

Kinda... would prefer a look at the entire head wall...

Looking for pics of both the ice cliff head wall from the moraine below the NR as well as the upper cirque from either the North Ridge or the Ice Cliff Arete. Prefer original full size pics (my eyes aren't what they use to be ) and the more recent the better (perhaps you are headed in there this weekend and wouldn't mind snapping a few pics for me?). If you don't want to post the full size here just PM me and I can send you an email address. Thanks!

Get a hold of me if you want to pool