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markd

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Everything posted by markd

  1. any word on where the birds are nesting? it sure would be nice to take an early season lap up the big monolith of the columbia river gorge. any chance we'll be allowed to climb before july 15, when it's too hot to climb there anyway? thanks again to all the bird watchers!
  2. this is true, but, what does it have to do with adding bolts to the top of 15ft, 5.8 boulder problems?
  3. i have no good answer about chopping the bolts. my first thought would be to leave them, and find out who's bolting the boulder problems. but, bolts lead to more bolts! BUT, chopping leads to more chopping; it's a double edged sword. when did 15ft become high ball? who bolts this stuff?
  4. kevin, i think your talking about the nw face, which is open year round. what i'm referring to is the west face and the sw face.(south of hiking trail) when you approach both these faces, there are signs that say, "no rock climbing". these signs are up year round.
  5. now here is something i completely agree with! (finally) i've looked at that face for years, though it's covered in oak. does anyone know why this face is closed year round? when you approach the face, there is a sign stating, no climbing allowed.
  6. what made this regulation happen at beacon? i understand the concern with the nw face, as rockfall can be a hazard. but, why does this effect the south face, where this isn't an issue? routes have been going up at beacon, in all styles, for years.(aid, trad, mixed and sport). how do the rangers know what routes are or aren't there? as far as i know, none of them climb beacon rock or ever have. there's routes all over the place that aren't in the guide. what they don't know, won't kill them. why bother them with the burden, when we're(climbers) already doing a good job regulating ourselves?
  7. IMHO, this does not sound good. Too much regulation from government agencies is not a good direction for our sport to move. What has brought this on? Who will decide wether routes go up or not? Who put them in charge? It seems like were going backwards if routes have to get approved, before we decide to climb them. I doubt Jim O, Bill Coe, Mark Cartier, Jeff Thomas, Wayne Wallace, or anyone else, had to "ask" if they could climb up their chosen line. mark
  8. nice pics and tr tyler. that bolt looks horrible! i'm not sure the 5.9 multi your talking about, but i could certainly direct you towards a 5.7 multi. let me know. also, AFIVE, has got some beta on that area, he might share. AFIVE? thanks to CM for replacing those anchors.
  9. bill-- the man-made "bouldering" is my favorite in portland. great at sunset with a couple beers! although i don't know if i'd call them short.
  10. thanks for the response joseph and for your hard work monitoring the falcons. it's really appreciated. my comment about "having a hard time monitoring the birds" wasn't directed at you and your efforts. it was in regard to beacons past trend of always staying closed from february 15 to july 15 without the chance of opening. thanks again for your help.
  11. joseph-- have you noticed any falcons? it seems they would be there now, if they were going to be there. prairie and peregrine falcons are all over the place, down here in central oregon. i have found numerous pairs. also, how come beacon rock has such a problem monitoring the birds? all over oregon, the birds are monitored and the cliffs open immediately when they leave. do you think they really care if it opens early or not? thanks for the update. mark
  12. joseph, is this true? please enlighten us.
  13. i think you should post a pic bill, this could be an early, april fools.
  14. they are nice photos. i believe werner took them. the valley looks awesome right now.
  15. are you using a rotohammer drill? it would be hard to drill through granite without one.
  16. i'd recommend bishop's terrace as good 2 pitch climb. not many people do the second pitch....but it takes you to the terrace[hence the route name]. cool place to be.
  17. while this place is not a destination area(obviously), it's certainly worth a stop if your driving across kansas on 70. quite a few sandstone problems on aesthetic boulders.
  18. another name that place.....this one is a bouldering area in the midwest.
  19. cobra- i tried to reply to your post but it's gone. pm me if you want.
  20. they haven't been found yet!
  21. what's the deal with mentioning trout creek so much lately? it seems to be brought up constantly, even in a thread about an alpine route in patagonia! bolts next to cracks=no good and bad style, regardless of who did the fa.
  22. 35 degrees and in the sun is perfect smith sending weather.
  23. whatever the solution is needs to be applied at beacon rock as well. people are always throwing stuff of and endangering climbers.
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