markd

on a climbing tip - here's some more pics of beacon. all are of windwalker.

cobra, sometimes i wonder the same myself. i can tell you for sure, this senate wasn't elected, and the actions don't speak for many who care. tyler- i'm sure you know this but royal realized he was wrong and stopped altering weml.

so bill - what ever happened with this crag?

eric sending excalibur!

we all know how UNreasonable, reasonable richard is, but i hope adding bolts is not considered an option. i cleaned a route just to the right of the route, local access, 3 years ago, that could be an alternate first pitch to reasonable richard. let's look at new options before we start making others work our own. i'm coming up on thursday with bryan and would love to lead the alternate pitch i cleaned. who's belaying me? snoop, kevbone, joseph - let's do it!

snoop - your comments are priceless and worth logging on to cc.com for. see ya soon.

it's called 10c r in the olsen guide. but, with all the modern wide gear, i don't *think* it would carry an r rating anymore. i haven't led it yet, though. it's a jeff thomas route from the 70's, so i doubt anyone will be down rating it anytime soon.

i pulled some pins like that out, on flying circus a few years ago, while cleaning it. i didn't replace them, because gear now fits where the pitons were. there is still some shakey pins, on the climb, that would need to be funked out. i'd love to take pics of flying circus, this year, if anyone wants to lead it!

looks like a perfect two camelot placement

you're a brave man bill. you are a master of the choss! why would you be rapping off that, though?

i know your old school joseph, but that hex is looking a little suspect!

i wouldn't have ever guessed at seeing a pic of "the mayor" of beacon on cc.com! two thumbs up for jim o - representing with the 20 year old harness and eb's!

stewart and i had a nice run up beacon yesterday! cruisin>the corner>uprising! felt great to be climbing beacon in june. perfect temps. thanks again to joseph and all the others who have made this happen. it's a job well done and very much appreciated. see ya out there!

if i'm understanding you correctly - is this another guidebook for the state of oregon? also, do you know what areas are in this, and it's release date? which areas did you give beta on? thanks

i'm a little nervous about a few of the areas. some of them are fairly sensitive. also, i wonder if any of them actually contributed or helped out significantly at any of these crags that have never been published before.

i'm not familiar with this series. is it an oregon book as well. thanks.

shapp- thanks for the info. where did you find that list from? also, do you know anything about the authors, besides their names? tyler- it's listed on amazon. i'll pm you about climbing.

does anyone have any info on this guidebook. what areas it covers?

well at least we agree on the gridbolting, as you did, and do, try to bolt all the rock. what about the no new bolts ethic, that you, crimper, stewart, kevin r and myself agreed upon? why are new bolts still going in? kevin, not sure what you mean by, "you act like gear climbing is the only climbing." you know that i put up sport, trad, mixed and multi pitch routes - so obviously, i don't think that. i just don't agree that basalt, is the arena, for bolting the crap out of every square inch of rock. lastly, you know that i'm not just giving you crap, i would say this to anyone, who was over-bolting a crag, that i have a significant amount of time and energy in.

kevin- gridbolting=bolting all climbable rock. are you trying to tell me that you didn't try and bolt all the climbable rock? how many gear routes did you put up? any? also, i thought we all agreed, no more bolts, yet your putting up another bolted route as we speak. meanwhile stewart has done ANOTHER all gear climb, yesterday.

YOUR AREA? since when did it become, "your area?" who's routes are you talking about? just because you monopolized an area and grid bolted it, doesn't give you much ground to stand on. every other developer at that crag, disagrees with you and your style of doing new routes, and you know this!

well thanks for the effort thus far. it sounds like we're mostly on the same page, with the same vision. i would just like, so bad, to be able to climb on our "big stone" all march and april.

the difference is, those crags re-open. you're right, borton, is doing a good thing by organizing the monitoring. it's helping climbing, in all of sw oregon, tremendously. but isn't this what you and billcoe and other monitors are doing at beacon?

thanks for the informative post. i'm still wondering, if you know, when the last time, beacon rock state park rangers, knew exactly where the nest was? also, how consistent year to year are they with actually identifying it? wow! this is the first i've heard of this. is there anyway to reverse this decision. also, who made this decision? was it a group of climbers? at smith rock, they shut down areas based on seeing the birds. also, check out http://climbsworegon.com/HOME_PAGE/seasonal_closures.htm they have done a good job in years past monitoring where the birds are and when they've fledged.

we all know that won't happen, as the "tourists" are the only ones paying to be there. beacon has been run like this for too many years. i'll never understand why elsewhere in the nw, rocks are monitored and open and shut down with some consistency to the birds actually being there. Yet at beacon, it's a black and white issue. February 15 it closes, for no logical reason, and july 15 it opens. where did these dates come from? when is the last time, beacon rock state park, actually new where the nest was? {none of this is directed at you joseph - just spewing my opinions}