markd

cobra, go check out the beauties on flying circus! these pins would be lucky to hold a quickdraw. while photographing arent a few years ago on blood, sweat and smears, he had the pin fall out in his hands while clipping it. i don't trust them at that beautiful monolith in the columbia river gorge.

bragging and name dropping in the same post

i'm not sure why people would do this either? free for all ends at the free for some anchor. then you rappel with one rope.

i'm not sure why people do this. you have always been able to rap with a 60m rope from big ledge to top of ffs. then from there to the ground. why would anyone rap to the perch then to the middle off ffs if they're not using 50m ropes?

that's what i thought. thanks.

I dont think there is a bolted anchor under the tree anymore. joseph, is this true?

you can rap off the anchor on ffs with a 60m rope, though it is close. it was my understanding ( according to jim o ) that it's there for the people who rap with a 50m rope - which must be very few these days. i'm not the guy who's going to take it upon myself to remove it; however, i think it shouldn't be there. there is an amazing amount of anchors in less than 200ft right there. - half way up ffs - top of ffs - the perch - the tree - big ledge

how long it takes the average team to climb it.

soloing again, ivan? you crazy

I second that. emabarassing is a strong word so why don't we just look at it for what it is: the only column at beacon that has a hanging belay in the middle of it. no more no less.

i've said that for years!

imo it seems self centered to have to rid the route of the bees. it's not season to climb that wall anyway and the bees will be gone when it is.

i love the butthole pitch! imho, if a bolt got added there one of the two previous bolts on the pitch should be taken out. as it is i don't clip the crux bolt because of the perfect 1 camalot to the side of it - also makes the rope run smoother. great route.

i wholeheartedly agree. not enough new routes to matter ( though there is plenty ) and the "new" areas have not had access smoothed out yet. there's nothing wrong with some routes being undocumented - it makes it more fun when you discover them.

snoop, this link should answer your question: http://mountainproject.com/v/oregon/broughton_bluff/105878883 come down and climb!

chockstone climbing guides.

if you're friend is up to climb 10d, then i would give demian a go - my favorite climb there.

thanks pink! when you heading back this way - it's climbing season.

sounds good tyler. most people lead that pitch all in 1, so as to not have a big runout right off the belay. see ya soon.

ya its a sport route that goes off after the 1st pitch of super slab. its usually pretty stupid IMO usually the FA party being lazy or poor. what other routes are you thinking of? on amphetimine grip right next to red rover, at the better belay spot theres an ancient fixed pin, where the gears not the best, does any one care if this fixed pins replaced? amphetamine group was climbed in the ground up era and should be honored as such. imho, the pin should be replaced with a pin - if even at all. when the pin comes out a nice stopper may go in.

chris garner using skill alone to safely move up this beautiful crack.

I haven't done that route for so long I think I forgot it existed. So I have no opinion. On Karate, I think that is better left as is. It makes you think, especially as a leader, about protecting for the follower. There are precious few of this kind of route over there (Culls in space too), I'd be for leaving it as theres the history of the thing as well, despite the fact that it's a real strange hit follow. There are plenty of straight up routes over there, no need to straighten this one out - my opinion only. But as Kev says, it IS Smith after all:-) i completely agree here. karate crack should stay as is. it's also is the best spot to belay when doing the chimney above. sundown also has this same style anchor setup too

there is a hand crack over by the old prg. it's a block or so closer to hawthorne and up a block or two.

you have? Where and what? classic crack

was thinking the same thing but didn't write it!