markd

ivan, are you running cordless laps on yw now?

measure for measure 11d

nice pic cobra. this beauty could only be the very aesthetic and beautiful masquerade! did you climb this? hats off to you if you did.

...thread drift to keep this thread alive, we should start a list of our favorite routes in the lower gorge regardless of grade or style. in no order: -cry of the poor -last chance -original sin -try to be hip -mantra

my favorite 11a in the lower gorge (or the park for that matter) is cry of the poor.

was the other chain harder to reach?

bill - that is ridiculous that someone would remove your hardware. you'd think anyone trying to "clean up the butte" would notice all the trash as a bigger eyesore than bolts. do these choppers have names? i'm sure they're proud of what they did.

joseph, you'll argue till your blue in the face and i'm not going to get sucked in. i'm just saying eric isn't here to defend himself and your bashing him. you don't even know him. people did voice their concerns to him as well - out at beacon. however, jim o was not one of these people. he was all for what was going on. did you voice your concern to him? when eric was working new routes, he put anchors in. so did you, jim o, me and everyone else that did new routes. not sure your point about that.

all this eric talk is making me sick. why is he being brought up and slandered? when he was here he did 2 new routes. he freed the second pitch of flying dutchman with NO added fixed gear at 11c. his second was a free ascent of the lower part of journey to the east where he put in maybe 3 bolt in 230ft. he never finished the upper pitch which would have had more bolts but not many. that route also wouldn't be considered out of place as the norsemans head is just to the right and is all bolts.

what's up larry. how's the high lining going? i was wondering if you were ever going to show up for the "conversations" cheers. [edit] i would second that larry is a local for life - grandfathered in, yo.

dave, since no one is responding to you, i will. i think your best bet is to just go out to beacon and meet the folks climbing. you'll find the circle of beacon climbers is small and many of them don't post here. don't let the "drama" on this thread deter you from heading on out and meeting people. most of the people arguing here climb together when they see each other at the great stone.

it's my understanding that they did try to keep it out of olsen's book.

flying pig, i'm confused by your last post. who is brian? who are you responding to?

thanks for the update scaredsilly. what you say is exactly what i figured.

i can't come this weekend as i'm camping at sparks lake. i would love to be there when it happens - it's worth the trip up. i hope something comes out of it and all sides listen.

doesn't sound like jim o - not his style. my guess is that it's, without naming names, the guy we all know who lives in colorado. he is very passionate. if it's not him - he's another that would have some productive things to say and while he doesn't live here - he's definitely a "local." i'd be surprised if kevbone would actually go to the trouble to get another account and email address. i also don't think he'd get into name calling... but what do i know.

kevbone, i hope your trolling. for being so adamant about not talking about things on this site, i'm surprised you bring this up here. this seems like one of the main topics that could just be talked about elsewhere. just my opinion.

also if your interested in areas that you have never been to and are off the beaten path, i know plenty down where i am. feel free to email me and i'll point in the right direction.

bill, i went to the opal creek wall back in 2002 to scope it. the wall looks amazing. let us know if you check it out or add a route yourself. i've been looking for a reason to head back out there. does anyone know the rock type? it resembles granite.

bill, that's funny. i sincerely wonder how you would have felt about this 20 years ago though. my guess is a little different. i'll "adopt" a route next time i'm up. i'd like to get on flying swallow and the variation next to it.

having not read this and not really knowing the butte all that well, stewart and i rappelled in right over the top of this climb directly on top of the nest. when stewart through his pack down......it got interesting. we had to use 10ft sticks to retrieve our packs.

i'm going to *try* to stop my part in these circular arguements, as i feel it's not really helping. points are just refuted and the same actions continue to happen. in arents defense, he added a pin(which is not fixed pro) to the route. this is more than a little different. joseph are you saying stone rodeo didn't have a bolt on it when your friend freed it in 87? had it been chipped yet? see all you beacon fools tonight at jim o's!

i just got off the phone with jim o. sounds like stewart and i will be there as well. stewart is actually there right now doing yard work for him. it will be good to put faces to the names of some of you.

thanks bill. i was unable to make it up this weekend but will be up mid week. you climbing? it was too hot for me to climb this weekend anyway. it was a hot weekend in bend!

there is rock climbing in all of the places you mentioned. it depends more on what exactly your looking for. what do you like to do? do you want to be in a small city, a town or "in the sticks." if you fill us in on more what your looking for, it will be easier to direct you.