markd

Ah, you're other pm's and post made me think you were with him when he did it. The anchors on it were replaced and at this point I've been through so many that I can't remember whether the anchor you described was the one at the middle right or higher on the left. first, i belayed him on the second pitch, just not his successful run. second, are you just replacing anchors blindly? not all anchors need to be replaced? some may not be appropriate or just added at a later time for no concievable reason. third, again my biggest concern is the spray on the internet. any chance of just doing the good deeds and not letting everybody on the web know your every move? you can still tell the rangers, just keep it to minimal on cc.com?

Ah, you're other pm's and post made me think you were with him when he did it. The anchors on it were replaced and at this point I've been through so many that I can't remember whether the anchor you described was the one at the middle right or higher on the left. higher on left would be the anchor for bears in heat. flying dutchman's first pitch climbs to the top of the pillar as does psychic wound's first pitch. the second pitch goes straight up passing a couple pins to the grassy ledge anchor.

joseph, people do climb riverside. not as many people climb flying swallow because it's 10d R and was freed by jeff thomas who was a known bold climber. flight time is a harder rating and is protected by old pins, which means not a lot of traffic. and iron maiden is 5.11A4. not many people aid that grade for fun at beacon.

first, i did not free the second pitch to flying dutchman, eric did. flying dutchman is two pitches to grassy ledges. he did the second one.(the top of the first pitch is red webbing with two carabiners to rap off). it should also be noted, that he did not add any fixed gear.

You cleaned it off? Cleaned it? I'll bet somebody is gonna show up and piss on you here in a moment for making it easier to get up it, and then showing up and telling people exactly that. Has anyone done this route? Anyone? Well, I wanted to head over to it this summer (would have except for the foot issue, so maybe next year), and so I want to personally thank you for spending the time and effort to get it ready for me! Thank you yes, many times. and so have many other people who have posted in this thread. i watched jefrick onsight it last year. stewart's got a good story for his first try it as well. and the second pitch was freed two years ago, which i told you via email right after it happened. i think it all comes down to agreeing to disagree. my biggest concern is the internet broadcasting of a crag that used to see very little traffic and had a mysterious feel to it.

bill, ivan and others, first, thanks for volunteering your time. i'm wondering, is beacon going to open earlier if no birds are seen? or will it always be closed this time of year? it would be great climbing there in the spring........... thanks again.

layton, i may be around this weekend, though i've been mostly working on new routes "near smith". if that interests you, or if you just want to grab a beer in bend, call me.

sunshine dihedral?

very cool. last year we saw a cougar walking the tracks.

what kind of bolt was it that popped? i thought they were all pretty new. the west face route was just rebolted by ryan, thomas and chip, so those bolts should be pretty good now.

i have to agree

karsten i'll be climbing at beacon most of the weekend. i'll be out with kevin and the usual crew. i think bill is going to meet up on sunday as well. you should head on out.

bluebird climbed directly from the winters delight anchor is one of my favorite pitches at beacon....long, sustained with a straight in hand crack to finish it off. the fourth pitch of young warriors is another good one. and don't forget about pipeline.

bill could answer that better than me, as he's climbed it. however i have friends who climbed it when the bolts were still their and it sounds as if the pro is minimal. although, like with all beacon routes, if you do a little gardening you might find some bomber gear.

it's a shame the bolts got chopped as it looks like a good alternative to the "butthole pitch". i've never been on it though, just looked down it from the second pitch anchors. but if it was done originally without the bolts, i guess that's how it should stay.

joseph, the corner that bill is talking about(i think) is directly off the ground and just to the right of YW's bolted pitch.

joseph, if were thinking of the same dihedral..........that's the one that bill bolted and called the old fart variation. the catch is supposedly someone had climbed it prior without the bolts, so when they found out they chopped them.

bill, sounds good about sunday. i think i'm going to sleep on land of the little people saturday night with kevin and arent so i should be out climbing early. a few others will be out sunday morning so we should have a good group to climb with. we were going to try to establish the second pitch to rise up, a climb kevin and i put up last year. i'd be very surprised if someone climbed through the roofs to the left of YW. if they did they truly did it with the ethic "leave no trace". it would be very bold to climb without bolts. joseph, at the very least we could look at it from the ground and see if it's worthy to climb up their. i think bill is on to something with that dihedral to the right of YW. edit: correct spelling of my own friends name and better clarify what i was trying to say.

joseph, not sure if i'm the guy to do this fa as i've got unfinished stuff i'm already working on. but i would definitely take a closer look............doesn't sound like the most promising rock though.

bill, i've never climbed raindance...........is that the bolted route to the right of the first pitch of yw? have you ever noticed the cool roofs to the left of the first pitch of yw. it looks like you could have two mixed pitches starting off the ground that would end at tree ledge. i'll be up climbing thursday-monday you should come out for the fun.

sounds like you'll have your hands full with that fa. good luck. i'll have to check it out when i visit this week.

were you leaving the couch belay(top of third pitch) when you were heading into this bad looking rock? if so i've noticed that piton up and to the right(10ft above 2 piton anchor) and always wandered where it went to. it seems like you could climb from the ground directly to the corners 200ft up. that would be a really cool line.

Joseph, are these corners your talking about above and to the right of the second pitch anchors on young warriors. it appears as if there is 2 oe 3 left facing corners next to each other. i was looking at them with jim last time i was out their and they looked really good. never ventured up for a closer look though.

rbw1966--I never worked at the Bagdad.

If the consensus is to start keeping better track of the new routes and the recently freed aid lines, I'm all for it. I have all the beta on the routes that Eric and I did last year at Beacon as well as the routes I've done at other various crags around Portland. I'm not sure I want to post topos on the web,just yet, but I would be glad to meet with whoever wants to be in charge of gathering all the info. For that matter I would happy to do it if anyone has routes they want "credit" for. mark