markd

tyler- it doesn't look like it to me, but i've never seen it from that angle. i remember it being a lighter color and having water streaks. where were you standing when you took this shot? that will be a big help in knowing if this is it or not.(i assume you took it the pic because you posted it).

or do you mean the anchors on top of the norseman? that anchor was definitely mank.

why would it get replaced when it is brand new?

when we rap in to swith the flying circus anchor i'll show you some more stuff, i'm reluctant to say here. it's fun talking about beacon though!

there is another way to get in without using those bolts. everytime i have ever rapped in i have used a different way. pardon my ignorance, but how would you use those bolts in a rescue? there is no routes up that lead up that direction, so you shouldn't have to rescue anyone from there. it also seems like you would lower people not raise them to the top.

joseph, yes, it's not hard at all......i don't want to give to many secrets away on the internet though......it took me years to find my way around beacon. if you rap into big ledge the ledge on eric's anchor(which i think needs to be removed!), it's only two columns over. i've done it multiple times and the first time i did it solo with a pack. i'll be glad to show you or just do it with you.

joseph, you can traverse over to the top of the pillar. that's how i cleaned it.

i cleaned a couple a few years ago......the one i want to do the most is though, is flying circus. amazing crack.

thanks joseph. it seems to me that trad climbers should be put on the "endangered species" list and washington should do what it can to restore them as well.

thanks for the informative answer. if the nest is high on the east face, have the rangers agreed to open the south face? i would be interested in a few observation days as well. maybe get a couple pics as well.

joseph, -where do you watch the birds from? -it seems very possible that they are not nesting on beacon, but somewhere else in the vicinity. which would explain seeing them all the time around beacon.

no, that one unfortunately ends at a nest, so we've stayed away from it. we've done all the one's around it on that wall though. i'd love to give you a tour sometime. it won't be "season" until march though.

are you heading over here this weekend?

did you end up going to the basalt area on the deschutes? do anything new?

i'm definitely interested. it is listed in the back of portland rock climbs. the wall is pretty big and has basically no routes on it. it has a strong resemblance to granite. i'm sticking around bend this weekend as i still have unfinished business to deal with. the weather has made it difficult lately.

shapp, have you climbed at all in opal creek. there is one big obvious wall we walked up to. looked almost like granite. also, where is your neck of the woods?

has anyone climbed in opal creek wilderness? i've been up there once exploring. the rock looks really good and the place is amazingly beautiful.

kind of looks like pete's pile.

sounds good. just keep my updated and i'll be there. i can also probably help a little with the peregrine watch, but not consistently as i don't live in portland anymore.

western chimney 5.5

joseph, i would like to be part of this initial clean up and anchor replacement session. are you talking about the anchors in the center of the south face like flying swallow and flight time?

retired, your right, bubbas in bondage has gone clean more than once. it was done again last year. also, the first pitch goes free at 11c and was freed by thomas emde.

is one of those on the mudpile? if not where are they? who are you climbing these with? you should contact me sometime when you visit this side of the cascades. i'm currently working on some routes out there as well. maybe we could partner up for the long walk. i'm mostly into free climbing though.

what new routes did you put up in the marsupials?

there is no routes info on this crag and hopefully there won't be. if you know where it is, then you know all you need to know. pick a route you think you can do and just start climbing. if your looking for routes that have names and star ratings, this is not the place to you. i'm going to disagree with AFIVE(G is that you?) and say yes, there are plenty of bolts out their but not many fully bolted routes. most routes require the use of gear.