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Everything posted by Blake
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2,800 Vertical meters would be a pretty aggressive day in the backcountry (especially if you are avoiding steeper avy-prone slopes), good luck with finding a partner/making the goal.
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A few days later after doing Young Warriors with JosephH, we did FFA (whole thing this time) and I was able to get my sling and 'biner back!. This was a great long crack climb, but too long to make a single rap, so plan accordingly.
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Here's a good one that someone should try soon. It's only been climbed once to my knowledge. Summer view: Another View:
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They are not at all doing what they originally set out to do, and IMO not a worthy group to support if you want to be able to access the backcountry. As a former Greenshirt (and I mean that with the utmost respect) I'm surprised you'd endorse the NCCC after how the treat Palleck and the current NCNP admin in their propaganda. Edit: Skeevix, I PMed you.
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you should try "jack of hearts" or whatever that crack at Silver Bullet is called.
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This actually sounds like it might be usefull, but from just tying a sheepshank with a bit of 7mm cord, I can't really figure out what you'd do. Can anyone give a more detailed description?
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that's a cool birthday concept you got going, how long cna you keep it up for?
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You're the one who lives in Colorado. Seahawks are going to get killed tomorrow. Why does everyone get excited when a mediocre team makes the playoffs only to lose quickly? No NHL, No Winter Olympics, NFL is crap, College football is over. Go Bulldogs and Huskies B-ball. I can't wait for spring sports to start competition.
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I can rent tranceivers from WWU for a few dollars a weekend, if you want to borrow one or go out some time.
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yeah, i've alwaysdone a munter hitch on an hms Biner? (doesn't the M in HMS represent Munter?)
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Closed for all winter, and nothign for sure beyond that, as far as I know. Sno-parks such as marble mountain are also closed to discourage recreation on the slopes.
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yeah, i miss it as well. I might even contribute to the site if it was back up.
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Were you inbounds? From the highest chair towards Shuksan I could see some groups of guys bombing down the arm.... looked amazing. There were also some folks touring up around table mountain and as they were skinning up the cat tracks I couldnt help but notice VAST amounts of gear being hauled along, including some big blue tarps, the kind that people use to cover their boats or firewood. You're right though E, the powder was fantastic.
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There is for sure something nuts going on. If you click the "who's online" it says there are dozens and dozens of anonymous people reading old topics, WAY more than normal....
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Like others said, get the cheapest harness that is reasonably comfortable and has at least 4 gear loops. The harnesses from any mainstream retailer will be safety certified, just put it on correctly.
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I've heard that it's awful tough to manage a rappel of two different ropes (one dynamic one static) with a high% difference in diameters. A way around needing to manage both of them is what I was getting at.
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I have a bunch of nylon slings, but I was planning on leaving them behind for alpine stuff. This was more of a "what if" question, not a "I plan to" question. Is the consensus that spectra/dyneema should not be tied? As for the # of biners in the rappel, I know that the more carabiners you have, obviously the more friction you have. I don't weigh much, and on stuff <90 degree or without much of a pack, I was looking for the lowest # of carabiners (least friction) I can use and still be safe. All the pictures I see (and they way I was taught) use two sets of 2 carabiners, but I was hoping to get away with fewer.
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If I'm climbing in the alpine using a long 9.3mmish rope and a 6mm static rap line to facilitate long rappels, is there anything wrong with rappeling only down the 9.4, but then have the 6mm running next to it, and using the 6mm to pull my rope down once I'm at the bottom? (I'd have to make sure there was a loop on my rap anchor with a hole smaller than the knot between the two ropes at the top, or have the second person secure the ropes above when I was going down, and then i'd need to secure them both at the bottom when they rapped.) I could even keep the 6mm in a pack and play it out as I descended per Lowell Skoog's idea here: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/ubb/Forum9/HTML/000013.html 2. On Carabiner brake rappels, assuming you have a locker on your harness, does anyone just use two perpendicular oval or D carabiners for the "brake"? Is this considered a death trap because they aren't lockers or in pairs opposite/opposed? If you are using three, are you doubling up on the carabiners that are clipped to your harness locker? 3. I'f I'm cutting the 8mm Mammut slings (to tie around a tree for example) is a standard water knot the recomended procedure? Or is the width of these such that another knot is better? -Blake
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Why would Danny name his dog after a little bug? Anyone else think Caddis is a stupid name for a pet?
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Normal Petzl Tikka, best headlamp ever and it wont get you killed in an Avy.
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A photo would be great.
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I think o is kiss, like an open mouth, and x is hug, like crossed arms.... I can't believe i'm replying to this.
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So you just put your cannister stove on a round/shiny piece of cardboard? I'm not seeing this one I guess.
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Here's a good deal on the MH "Monkey Man" Jacket. It's a good one. http://www.campmor.com/webapp/wcs/stores...mberId=12500226