Blake

That pin has been there for 20 years. It's not as good as when it was first placed; I wouldn't want to fall on it. At this point placing a bolt next to it may be an option to consider. The rest of this route is compromised by a bad start IMO. The tough bouldery direct start, or a unprotected traverse through blackberries on a wet sloping ledge, then only a suspect pin after the single belay bolt. It seems like a little gardening and/or pin replacement might be in order.

Tikka

Way to change the issue with an ad-hominem attack. Can you say D-E-N-I-A-L?

Semi off-topic.... what's the consensus on the reliability of that pin on the first run-out frictiony part of GM? Last time on that route the bottom was wet, and I had to make some sketchy moves to clip the pin where I was in range of a seriously big fall/pendulum. Do you think it's more psychological pro than anything?

yeah, listen to the canuck. It'd be a much better plan to climb at Index on Sunday.

Anyone leaving AFTER 11:00ish tomorrow? (saturday)

still looking...

I've got Saturday after 11am and all of Sunday free. I'm looking for a partner with a car who can drive for trad cragging (Index, Squamish) or alpine. I'll be happy to provide rope and rack as well as gas money. I know someone's got to be looking to get out.

How much do you think I should ask for it Dru?

Pretty funny, I was also really amused by the looks of confused consternation expressed by some of the more uptight members of the audience at Timmy's brand of humor. I won a fancy headlamp that I'm trying to sell, and some kind of hot oil massage from Dick Cheney, which I'll treasure. Anyone in Bellingham need a climbing partner for the weekend?

http://www.petzl.com/petzl/LampesProduit...ProduitAssocie= I'm selling this brand new and never used Petzl headlamp with 4 new batteries. This retails for $77. I'll sell for $49, or trade for a large cam(#3.5 camalot or bigger). PM or Email.

REI members get 20% off regular priced item through April 3, 2005 Coupon code: DVD25

I talked to Dallas today at Erie (where the weather by the way) and he said that the new book is at the printers, he'll be giving a final edit to make sure the layout and all that is solid tomorrow (Monday 2/28) and printing should begin immediately. He expects availability in a couple weeks.

what's the story on that alien in the 2nd pic?

Anyone in Bellingham have Sunday free, and own a car? I'd love to hit up Index, Squamish, or even Erie. I've got full trad rack, rope, and gas money. reply or PM if you want to get out.

Camp xla 130.... 4.6 ounces. It wouldn't be comfy for hanging in, but for snow, glacier, and "just in case" times, it's the lightest thing going.

It's an Edelwiess, I'm belaying with an atc, and coiling with a butterfly. Thanks for suggestions.

What's the conventional wisdom on keeping ropes from getting all twisty and coiled up, or getting them un-kinked? I've heard lowering off of anchors can do it, any truth in this? I've had this problem after a day of single-pitch cragging. (We aren't belaying/rappeling with a munter either, as I've heard that this also kinks ropes.)

What do you mean steddy? this is the only name/persona I've ever posted anything under.

Is that "Jack of Hearts"? I remember climbing a 5.9 crack in that area with some kind of card-playing name. I was on a toprope, the crack seemed thin and a little tricky to protect.

Those are some nice topics, care to elaborate Ms. Tumblemark?

Those are nice nice topics, care to elaborate Ms. Tumblemark?

The type of wildlife they claim to have encountered does not exist in the Gobi. They trekked across Mongolia without food for weeks and without water for days. They crossed the Himalayas with no real warm clothes, and no climbing gear, or maps. The author never even bothered to learn the first name of his American friend (Smith) let alone his life story, and this is on a 3000 mile journey where they are constantly dependent on one-antoher. None of his companions were ever located, or found on military records. I don't doubt that there were amazing escapes, but this is one where the nugget of truth is coated in a thick batter of deep-fried exageration. Check out various reviews and records for more precise geographic and biological discrepencies. http://outside.away.com/outside/features/200301/200301_adventure_canon_9.html

The Long Walk is pretty much considered a fairy tale at this point, not a credible story.

Mix gatorade powder in your water, and it wont freeze as quickly.