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Blake

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Everything posted by Blake

  1. Totally different places, miles and miles apart. Goode is visible from both spots though....
  2. Here's a new one Name any and all, there are lots to choose from. It might help to look at the full-size picture: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=9338&size=big&sort=1&cat=500
  3. Was taken from Sahale. A=Formidable B=Rainier C= Monte Cristo Area? D=Mix-up E=Monte Cristo Area? F=Sloan
  4. Looks like you guys are correct, thanks. http://www.summitpost.org/mountains/phot...r_by____limit__
  5. Because they aren't very comfortable, they are just tight and work well.
  6. Is Pugh in that area as well?
  7. I can't figure out the snowy one that seems to be leaning over to the left. For reference, Formidable and Rainier visible as well.
  8. Hey MisterE, that's called a "Beer Knot." It works with 1" tubular as well. It's cleaner, but slightly more bulky than a water knot.
  9. B-52 or Reverso
  10. Looks like it might have been better a bit higher where the crack widens. (course a tricam or big old hex would be a lot lighter in there, and looks like it would work as well.)
  11. When I climbed at Beacon in the howling winds with JoshephH he suggested (and with good results) that the belyer stick their chemical hand warmers under the wrist cuff of their gloves, right on top of all the veins ad arteries. You can then climb gloveless, but the hands will stay warm for a while. Dru, were you sliding your wool sock tubes down over your feet when you took or shoes off to belay, or were these just ankle warmers?
  12. figured as much.... thanks Dru. [brag] I just picked up a brand new 8.4mm Marathon dry rope in trade for a $20 gear sling and an $8 headlamp. Ye-haw![/brag]
  13. Will it work to climb on two 60m half ropes of slightly different diameters (8.1, 8.4)? Both of the ropes I'm looking at have the same dynamic elongation, and impact force. They'll be used mostly for alpine/multi-pitch trad.
  14. Concept2 Ergometer (erg) i'd imagine, what kind of workouts are you doing on there?
  15. PM sent
  16. Blake

    Ribbon-based economy

    There are no units of measurement on the "climber status" line. How will I know when I'm going from Mountie-basic to Fred Beckey... or even, gasp, NOlSe?
  17. Blake

    Ribbon-based economy

    According to this thing, NOLS courses is dependent upon days per week climbing. I think that you need to somehow incorporate three independent variables (days per week/NoLS courses/Years in outdoor retail) to form the dependent variable of "How much like NOLSe and Cracked am I?"
  18. I was at Erie today, we did all the left side routes on the powerline wall, as well as a short but very fun route on the right side of the cirque. The weather was beautiful, i'm sure tomorrow will be fantastic as well. Anyone else notice that the only existing guidebooks are pretty far from reality at this point? It'd be nice if the news ones really did show up in a couple of weeks. Edit: if you go to Erie and stop by the above mentioned spots, please keep an eye out for a black gerber knife that I think got left behind.
  19. I have a feeling we'll start at the top/powerline area, but i'm not sure. Blue small car with ski rack and lots of stickers. So far there are two of us, and we'll be there 10-3ish. If you find us say hi and i'd be happy to give you a belay, but see if you can round someone else up if possible.
  20. I'm going to be at Erie with one other guy tomorrow for local interested in climbing in the sun. I'm not sure where will be, but if anyone else is going to be there, reply or PM and maybe we can meet up.
  21. check out the webpage for the canadian store "mountain magic" you can get two mammut phoenix ropes for about $240, they are better than the beal ice-floss and weigh equivalent amounts.
  22. Blake

    Mileage

    Right on right on. I started my M-F in March and found I had way more free time than I did in grad school so I kinda went crazy. Climbed every weekend with the exception (had to move) of 3 during that time period. Good stuff. I definitely know if I was in Seattle I would have put less on the but still a small price to pay for quality climbing in WA. I climbed alpine every weekend during July, August, and the first three weeks of September. Total driving, about 20 miles. Location is everything.
  23. It was in reader's digest several years ago.
  24. http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?topic=80507&forum=23 It's 12 pages of one guy saying his alien broke, and a million other people asking for pictures/proof/evidence which is not produced.
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