Blake

Most useless post ever?

I bet you could find a partner on this site for a day on hood this spring, and you could buy them lunch and after the climb for a lot cheaper than a guide service. Just know how to self-arrest and walk with crampons on.

beautifully written

I was told that the gum thing is in lsrge part due to the high-speed train systems, which had doors that were getting "gummed up".

It'd be great if folks could mention general where these places are. (assuming you aren't saying "north Ridge stuart" etc..)

I've got this one, and it is a good bag. I wouldn't call it a "summer bag" though. However, at just 2.1 lbs, i wouldn't see myself buying another bag for summer pruposes unless i was saving at least 10 or 12 ounces without sacrificing too much insulation. -Blake

What pieces of gear have you made or changed that have come in handy for your climbing? I was out with a fellow the other day (JosephH) who had stiffened the slings on his tri-cams with plastic sleeves, allowing them to be placed where he couldn't reach the actual metal. He'd also used athletic tape to keep the metal part of the tri-cam from swinging in the wrong direction. After using one of those Metolius Rope Hooks I made my own using a couple of wire coat hangers, some duct tape, and a bit of 1" tubular webbing. I found these things to REALLY help with rope management and keeping your rope in good condition. You need to use at least 2 coat hangers to be stiff enough to support a wet 60m rope. I'm sure there are some fantastic ideas out there from others.

Than fleece layers? Or down vs. Synth?

I think in a small space where youd be taking advantage of the smallest of the three pieces, the back two pieces would be bulky and useless and might make the chock itself too large to fit into a slot. If there was a way to remove/re-arrange these 3 pieces on the wire, it might make sense. If you can fit the largest cylinder back in the crack behind the constriction, and it wont come out with a pull, the two smaller pieces are useless anyway.

Right now I have a bunch of good fleeces and polypro under layers, and I've got a light weight shell (Sierra designs version of the marmot precip) and a goretex winter jacket. I recently craved into the fad, and bought a softshell jacket as well. This is all i've needed for northwest summer alpine trips and winter days tripsof the past. If i'm planning on doing some ski tours, more winter cragging/belaying or more alpine stuff during the non-summer months, do you think getting an insulated jacket would be necessary? I've read the past couple of threads on down and synthetic jackets and if i decide to get one, i'll use those suggestions, but I guess i just need some input. I love the idea of a 16 or 10 oz down jacket, thinking i could just keep it dry under a shell when it rained. Is this realistic? Would you get an insulated jacket if you were in my spot? If so, Down or Synthetic? Convince me! Thanks for the advice.

Are you looking for one of these? http://www.outdoorsmagic.com/news/article.asp?UAN=599&SP=328335336820364170484&V=1 If so, it's an amazing jacket, and contact Nolse re This Thread.

Note the Name in the 1st entry of this cascade summit register:

I think you'll be ok, but you might want to have one side of the rope a little longer than the other when rapping, so your pen mark isn't at the rope's bend. I know this is an anecdotal bit of information, but who has ever heard of a rope failing due to a felt pen? (real life not lab tests)

I'm looking to go cross country skiing with the family on Friday. Where is a good place to go in a day from the Portland area? Any trails or parks near Government camp? Thanks.

Beckey doesn't do boulders.....

what'd you do billygoat? I too was able to get in a day on the rock today. (my fourth in the past 2 weeks )

If you want to climb anacortes/Mt. Erie, you can print off the topo for free. It's a pdf file and has been posted on here before. Search and you'll find it.

My thoughts as well Josh. How is that really in line with the "golite" philosophy? Western Mountaineering Flight Jacket (down not synthetic) is 10 ounces! http://www.backcountrygear.com/catalog/appareldetail.cfm?PRODUCTS__ProductID=WE4075&code=100

Yeah, I think i'm in. I've only been there once, and it was in the rain last week, but i'd love to head back. I'll PM you.

How valid/accepted is Weiss' FA claim?

I think that the dog is a male as well. That's a confused deer.

Climb: Beacon Rock-Free For All Date of Climb: 12/21/2004 Trip Report: A friend and I planned on doing the SE corner at Beacon, but constant drizzle and fog ruled out that option. We ran into local veteran Jim Updike, but even he wasn't climbing in this weather. We did most of Free For All (Left side start is fantastic). However, the Rock was wet and I didn't feel really confident on lead, and called it quits part way up. We left a gray sling and 'biner slung atop a pillar about 50-60' up and just right of the route, free booty for someone. Also, I recoverd a biner that had no kN or CE ratings on it, and said "chamonix". Anyone know about the quality of these carabiners? Gear Notes: chemical hand warmers - most vital gear we had.

I neglected summitpost in my search for beta, I guess i figured Beacon wasn't really a mountain. SP's beacon page was great though! Thanks for the advice everyone. I'm thinking we'll 2-rap straight down the line from the grassy ledges per http://www.summitpost.org/mountains/phot...r_by____limit__ Either way, i'm sure it'll be great.

There's a webpage called "ebates" that will automatically mail you a rebate check for purchases made from a wide variety of online retailers, including many climbing/outdoors places. (REI, Altrec...) The discounts aren't huge, but it is simple to use and there doesn't seem to be a catch.

The toilet at Heaton Camp was once ranked as having the most scenic view in the state (maybe even country).