Blake

I would like to borrow a Bugaboos guide from someone in Bellingham or Seattle. I will be able to pick it up and return it. Pick up this weeekend, return the next weekend. I'd be willing to pay a rental fee or some beers. Thanks! email or PM or phone me. 206 779 sevenfivetwosix

I think he's in the Adamants with David TRippett.

Anyone have Gary's Cel phone number? please PM,i'm not sure he'd want it posted.

FFA of one of the steepest big faces in the cascades! Perhaps the most remote "hard" free climbing in the range? HELL YEAH GUYS! .11+ Crux A1+ Crux Way to style it!

Too bad it didn't work out. Leaving a new pack full of someone elses's gear just because you don't want to deal with brush which you chose to get into is grounds for bad snaffle karma in the future.

Leor (Off_the_hook) was a long-distance runner in college and is obviouly still at it. That's an awesome accomplishment. What kind of headlamp do you use for night time trail running? (or for when you started at 2:30 am)?

Are you posting from the Adamants Lodge?

Anyone else want to climb the complete NR of stuart on thurday or friday? Other ideas welcomed.... i'm getting anxious for some alpine rock. -Blake (206) seven 7 9- 7five 2 6

It was a great climb. You guys should post more shots of the overhung ice cliff "it's something"... The accident was caused by me and dan being lazy. After down climbing all the way from the summit, we did one rap at the very end and stood in the fall line while pulling ropes. If we'd both been off to the sides, the whole thing would have been avoided. If entering or leaving Boston Basin on hot days, you have to go several hundred feet upstream from the main crossing in order to ford the stream. (or else your wagon will sink and oxen will drown) Has anyone climbed the rib/arete to the climber's left (East) of the NW face route?

Cool, good job guys. The last 3 pitches were all rumored to be 5.9 as well (crack climbing for much of it) but definitely had some harder bits thrown in. I think it's worth camping in the valley in order to do Salish and Roan as well.

Yesterday it looked fine up to the saddle W of Sahale.

no floor, think BD megamid. Sillybunt, i didn't get a pm. Send me an email and its yours BlakeHerrington @ gmail DOT com

Anyone want to head up to Squamish tomorrow? need a 4th... leaving from Mt. vernon. 206 sevenseven 9 7526 or pm Probably cragging at Murrin...

I have some Vasque hiking boots (mens 8.5) for sale. Used one day... they look almost exactly like this: They Retail for $160 an hour! $60 OBO I also have a Megamid type tent. It is made by Outbound, which is a Canadian tent maker and I think it was bought at MEC. It is exactly like a BD megamid, and is 9' x 9'. I also just sealed the seems and I have weathered a couple of big storms in it no problem. www.outbound.ca $20 OBO I alo have a brand new 40 degrees synthetic fill sleeping bag $100 OBO Thanks!

hint...

On the 2nd to last pitch of the East face (Slab pitch) you can climb up to the very top of the slab part where it steepens and then go straight left. You can get in protection in 2 or 3 places to protect yourself and the second climber on the later part of this pitch if you do that. I noticed a bail biner up above the slab in the steeper section of the E. face, but it did not belong to Sol's group. Either someone did the route as an unpublished FA or its an old relic from the Skoog route. I am pretty sure it was an old oval biner, which would suggest something from the older line, but it'd be interesting for the next group up there to climb up to it and take a look, or rap down from the summit. You can see it between yourself and the summit if you look up while climbing the 1st half of the slab. On the West face, I think the rock is just so untouched that there are some scaley/skin sections which should be flaked away with a wire brush or climbers. There anre't just jumbles of blocks or giant chunks ready to blow. Way to go guys, looks like a really good time. Glad you enjoyed all the windfall as much as we did!

That ridge on Buck looks so classic! too bad it just isn't...

yeah.... that corner in your first picture was soo good! it'd be worth TRing if you climbed up the normal way, cause it is ***** climbing. Someone else must have gotten lost like us.

How's it going Tom, how was Martin peak? I asked you about your approach at a time when I had already done that route 2 times in the past 12 months, I wasn't interested in beta, but curious if you went the way I had gone too. As for your link disapearing in the old post, I have no idea why that happened, but i'd guess it was done for some logical reason(size/bad link?), or out of accident. People spend a lot of time moderating these boards, and I wouldn't be so eager to start swearing at them as you seem to be. As for Dan saying that I know a lot about that area; I can certainly think of a few locals in Stehekin who know more, not to mention tons of NW climbers. It was still a nice thing of him to say though, even if it was an overstatement. I'm sure he'd be glad to delete that part of his TR if it'd make you feel better. Anyhow, it sounds like something sure rubbed you the wrong way, so if you want to talk more about it or benefit from my vast and unrivaled cascades expertise, shoot me an email. BlakeHerringtonATgmail.com -thanks

On the climb Rebel Yell, it seems like the first pitch has a lot of options. When we did this climb last week, our first pitch was stretched out to include a cool overhang move into a very prominent L-facing corner with a fingertip lieback crack in it. This crack/corner went on for quite a bit before a ledge where it became a thrutchy flaring chimney, and eventually a wide crack that you had to grab on above your head, and swing out of the flaring chimney before traversing rightward to the actual route somewhere around p3. Has anyone else ever climbed this variation or know how hard it is? Either way, that's a really good route. The line i am talking about goes up the really prominent left-facing corner to the left of the actual route, in this photo:

I'm 90% sure that the Mary Greene glacier route would be fine right now. I did it mid-august in a lower snow year and it went fine. Stay climber's right.

Anyone climb the other routes on PP more to the left/west side? Rampage and some other crack systems look like they might be fun. NYC007, as Sky mentioned, the whole climb goes quick. We climbed it fine in a short October day.

DBerdinka and a buddy are up there now, so there might be even more climbs to do in the future. judging from the number of PM inquiries i've gottn about approach info, we should plan a Gunsight pub club for august.

Sol, we kinda got off route on the crux. You mentioned a flake, and so we ended up AOing an overhanging flake to the right of what we think is the crux finger crack. From the ledge above, we top-roped the actual crux (I think). It was a Right-facing corner with a perfect finger crack that went through a roof/bulge thing, and suddenly turned into a splitter hand crack for the last 15' to a big ledge. I felt like it was .10d with perfect pro, but it was on TR. you just need to save a hand-sized cam for the last part, which you can't see from below. All the other stuff was onsighted, and the grades felt right on.

Robert, I sent you a message back. Didn't you guys climb along the N ridge of the N Peak after trying the W face?