OlympicMtnBoy

Nice TR Bump! Now we need some ice for this season!

Woohoo! I like the new look, thanks guys for the work! I've only been poking around a few minutes so these thoughts may change, but my initial comments: The front page looks good and snazzy. It highlights the blog posts and articles, but TRs are not mentioned at all except in a tiny box at the bottom (which leads to error code: 1S160/2 BTW). IMHO the best part of this site as a regular user are TRs and the Forum, I would love to see recent TRs and Forum posts highlighted up front. Or maybe TRs should be considered like articles/blog posts? That and I really hope my and everyone elses old TRs are accessible again eventually. I'm still figuring out this whole "recent activity" thing, not quite as easy to browse as the old "past 24 hrs" list, but I'll probably learn. The font and layout makes for a lot of scrolling there, maybe that can be optimized to not show "in the last hour" as it's own category (until we have a crazy busy site)? I am guessing this was a ton of work, so props to everyone!

Nice, thanks for some rainy weather stoke for D-town!

Thanks! It's probably not fairing well with this warmer spell, but hopefully back soon!

Thanks for sharing, nice article.

Along similar lines as others, I was reminded of this quote from Malcolm Bates on Beckey's Bible from the NWMJ: Yea, though I contour gently on talus slopes and beneath the obvious arete and across the firn into the hanging valley of Despair, I shall fear no exfoliation (although I should be on the lookout for hidden crevasses and friable rock). Thy route and approaches, they comfort me . . . I was lucky enough to share a few trips with Fred over the last decade or so. Even in his late eighties though we amazingly even saw to top of a few routes together. On of my fondest memories though is of high camp on a ridge on Mt. Monarch. We roped up for the glacier and Fred insisted on carrying his own pack (which we discreetly lightened for him). He had to use an ascender to get up the last steep snow bit but he made it on his own. It was clear that he wouldn't be able to make it to the top but he hung out while Bill P. and I summitted the next day. Sitting on that high ridge with a beautiful sunset and only a few climbers around for miles and miles, Fred was clearly in his right place. I'm glad I got to share a few of those moments. You will be missed Fred, your mountains and routes will endure.

Hah, I was on Mt. Holyoke this summer. Maybe that means I should try this next year? Hah, unlikely I could manage. Nice work and thanks for the TR!

Mountain Equipment Co-op (MEC) recently redid their climbing packs and a crag pack. If you are passing through Vancouver or something it could be worth a look. I wasn't in the market at the time but I fondled a couple packs in the store in Victoria and the crag pack looked burley (for not being a haul bag material pack).

Nice TR and way to get back at it after the first time!

Last minute but worth a try, anyone wanna get out tomorrow (Sunday)? I'm up for most anything but probably clipping bolts is easiest. 20+ years experience, plenty of gear, probably only leading 10ish trad or 10+ sport right now but happy to follow harder or ropegun for you! Hit me up via pm with your number if you are interested. I'd just like to get out, even if it's only a half day. Cheers, Stewart

DPS for the thread win!

That looks great! I wanna go there!

Sweet! I've seen that cloudy view a few times, have yet to see from the summit! One of these years I need to go back on a good day!

Thanks for the updates!

Nice work Josh! Always exciting to see how the lake can change over a day huh!

Thanks for the update, I was hoping to head in to ski Glacier Peak that way later this spring so hopefully it gets fixed!

Pretty much what everyone else said. I've also had good luck with Gu/energy gels, in limited quantity, at altitude as well. Sometimes when you don't feel like eating but know you need to they easy to choke down. Think about how things will be cold/frozen as well though, for example the plain vanilla powerbar gel worked well for me in Peru, but the chocolate/coffee Clif Shot type ones were too stiff and harder to eat. I like gummy candy/shot bloks too but I did lost a crown off my tooth on a frozen one ice climbing. That sucked. Sometimes high fat things like cocktail pepperoni (Oberto Outlet for big bags cheap) get more appealing on trips than at home, although altitude may make fat harder to digest so maybe best for basecamp.

Nice work! I love the cornice tunnel exit, looks like you had to dig quite a bit!

Thanks for the conditions update, sorry you didn't make it up! It's not (likely) going anywhere for a while so you'll get another chance!

I have some Vasque Ice 9000s (non-plastic double) that I think are around 11.5. 10 yrs old but barely used, I started ski touring around the same time.

Wait, I didn't think those were aid routes? You weren't tryin to free climb now were ya? Hehe! ;-)

I've got a pair of old Sportivas around that size that have been converted to fruit boots if that's what you are going for. Come with Grivel Racing Crampons bolted on so not quite just beer but I'd pass em on for $75 since I never use em.

I keep getting this set of errors when I try to get to cascadeclimbers.com. Using both Chrome and IE. It's been going on for at least a week now. :-( Warning: include(/home/climb/cascadeclimbers.com/plab/uploads/14049/help.php): failed to open stream: Permission denied in /home/climb/cascadeclimbers.com/index.php on line 3 Warning: include(): Failed opening '/home/climb/cascadeclimbers.com/plab/uploads/14049/help.php' for inclusion (include_path='.:/usr/local/lib/php:/usr/local/php5/lib/pear') in /home/climb/cascadeclimbers.com/index.php on line 3 Warning: include(/home/climb/cascadeclimbers.com/gear/javascripts/config.php): failed to open stream: Permission denied in /home/climb/cascadeclimbers.com/wp-settings.php on line 239 Warning: include(): Failed opening '/home/climb/cascadeclimbers.com/gear/javascripts/config.php' for inclusion (include_path='.:/usr/local/lib/php:/usr/local/php5/lib/pear') in /home/climb/cascadeclimbers.com/wp-settings.php on line 239 Warning: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at /home/climb/cascadeclimbers.com/index.php:3) in /home/climb/cascadeclimbers.com/wp-includes/pluggable.php on line 881

Cool memories, maybe I'll get on the North Face when the snow settles a bit. Last time I was up there, many years ago, we got lost in the bushes, soaked by torrential rain (and bushes), broke an ice tool trying to chop some firewood, and then bailed like wet rats having never set foot on the face. We were doing it wrong.

In classic fashion as usual! I picked up Fred and got some gas and then we hit up the North Bend McDonalds. They have a hard floor and it's a good spot to put on ski boots, also napkins. I had a second breakfast and one of the employees flirted with Fred. Back on the road eventually and we made it to Blewett Pass. Fred complained about not sleeping well and a fall he had recently and decided to nap in the car while I took my dog out for a short ski. Back at the car 45 mins later for food and some of my friends showed up with kids and xc gear. Fred managed to make it out of the car to say hello and be in a couple of pictures but still wasn't up for skiing. The rest of us did another hour up the forest road and back in pleasant snow. We tried to hit up the Washington State Ski and Snowboard Museum at Snoqualmie on the way back but they were closed. So no skiing for Fred, but at least he got his boots on and walked around in the snow for a minute. He seemed happy to get out and wasn't even grumpy about waiting in the car. I hope someone will drive me to the mountains when I'm 94, whether or not I actually get my skis on!