OlympicMtnBoy

We just rapped down to the thin ledge with the natural anchor and then downclimbed the last 15 feet to the big ledge, didn't seem like a big deal or a reason to haul a second rope up there. The natural anchor didn't look that bad except for the ratty webbing that i didn't feel like replacing.

Alpindustria in Moscow, Russia stocks them. Just a short walk from the Izmailovskaya metro station. Alvo Titanium who used to make them for Ushba is still around. Scroll to the bottom of http://www.alpindustria.ru/catalog/alp/spare_p/1395/ to see a few, but there were more varieties when I was in the store a couple years ago. Good luck trying to order them online though. ;-)

Nice Chad, we missed you guys in the Alpine Lakes, but it looks like you were having good fun. :-)

Many or most of the trad routes at Smith also have bolted belays, although it's kinda hot there right now.

More pics of our climb are online here: http://picasaweb.google.com/matthiesen/SEButtressOfCutthroat

Cool, looks like a fun day of scrambling!

BTW Geoff, all my pics are online here: http://picasaweb.google.com/matthiesen/EastFaceOfLexington There are a few more of you guys on Liberty Crack.

Hi Dan! Get better soon! :-)

Wow, there is nothing left to add as Mal just covered my list. I'd also second his recommendation of picking an area or a route with little info and going for it. What the Olympics lack in solid rock is more than made up for in adventure, scenery, and solitude. You're unlikely to find another party any of these routes except maybe Cruiser on a weekend. Check out the Constance Massif for some rock FA potential too (there is more detailed info on the 5.7 route in the book too, as well as some likely unrepeated 5.10 spires).

Rough story. Condolences and best wishes for sure.

Sweet! I'm glad you'll get your shoe back Lisa. I was bummed when we knocked it into the moat.

I did it many years ago when i think my entire rack was 4 cams, 9 nuts, and some draws (which is more than you need for that route anyways). I think I just had one 50m rope too. I don't recall it being too difficult to get down. I think it was just about 80 ft to rap the 5.0 pitch to the little ledge.

All of your questions are miraculously answered in this thread here from the frontpage. :-)

Nice job guys, I love Olympic rock climbing!

The boy was legs with lungs in college, and he hadn't been guiding yet. We got him to carry a whole full size watermelon in his pack into the Olympics once back then, so I'd like to take credit for helping him train. ;-)

Nice job, one of these days I'm gonna get in there!

Nice lookin route! I was doing Angels Crest a couple weekends ago and I kept looking across the gully at your route thinking how cool it looked! Maybe someday I'll be able to do it. :-)

SMC Himalayan Hammer? I think that may be only up to 55 cm though. What are you on that is steep enough to need to pound pins but not need a second light tool? If you just want the axe for easy snow on the approach, just get used to using a short one. I find anything longer than 50 cm gets in my way while rock climbing anyways and I can arrest fine with a short axe.

You mean the one with the sheep on it?

Nice job burninating the offwidth, thanks for cleaning out the fixed body parts too!

Actually I think the OlympicMtnBoy on summitpost is Byron S, who somehow beat me to it there (but not anywhere else). He probably can answer your question too but this time of year I'd take my aluminum axe and crampons. :-)

Partner found! :-)

Anyone? Anyone? Bueller? C'mon cc.com, don't let me down. I know someone out there in work land wants to head out on this fricking beautiful day!!!

I just found this from the WTA the other day: http://www.wta.org/go-hiking/trail-closures That may be of some help to you.

It's sunny and warm and my afternoon meeting just got canceled (so my boss can work in her garden). I've been climbing lots of cracks but for some reason I feel like clippin' some bolts today. Anyone wanna head to Exit 38 or 32? I'd like to hit some stuff in the .8-.11 range, but it's sport climbering eh. I'm in Fremont and can leave around 2:30 or so. Drop me a PM or call 360-301-2585. - Stewart