OlympicMtnBoy

Maybe you can rig them for some super ultralight six point crampons? Or STP has some CAMP steel pons, the back half will fit these and you can have some steel aluminum hybrids (although I rig mine with the steel up front). ;-)

Anyone wanna head to Leavenworth from SEA with me on Sunday? I'd like to get out and swing some tools if anything is in. I might be open to other ideas for Sunday too. Shoot me a PM. :-)

Hey Andy, good to see you again! We have to get out some time. It wasn't the best show in Seattle but it was still fun. My fav was the Old Man of Hoy, I guess the visual part wasn't fantastic, but I liked the poem a lot. They didn't really have either a good environmental or cultural film by the usual standards (not sure how the animated bit was winner for "mountain environment"). There was a lot more focus on basejumping/snowkiting/sking/biking/dws that was about projecting things or showing a whole lot of short bits of action from different angles or with tons of time to set up camera shots. I really missed the long climb/epic journey/wilderness bits they have had before. I also saw the Sharma bit (which I actually liked) at the Reel Rock Tour and the mtn. biking bit somewhere before too. Oh well, still a fun evening once I managed to get in. :-)

I use an USHBA basic as well for TR solo, with an occasional backup knot. It's the easiest device to climb with that I have used since it's basically self feeding. The test quoted above was looking at factor 2 falls with big guys (simulated) and while it is interesting reading isn't very relevant to this sort of situation. G is right that many ascenders and self-belay devices will fail or shred the rope at those forces. For lead solo I use a gri-gri.

GC, I have them and I used them in Peru this summer up to almost 20K. I got them because I was worried my single leathers might not be warm enough. It never got that cold, but the boots were extra toasty warm. I managed several miles of approaches with a giant pack with them on too and didn't have problems. I like em, but I'll still climb with my single leathers for anything but Rainier in winter here. They will work fine for ice climbing, probably great if you get really cold feet, but won't be nearly as sensitive as a single boot. They are a lot better than many double boots I've used (I like the sticky rubber), but I'm not an expert, they are the first pair of double boots I've owned. My liners fit about like any other shoe, the left one was a tad bigger on my cause my left foot is smaller. A whole thumb is too much extra in the liner I would think. 1. You need to have room in the shel for a liner of the proper size. 2. A liner ofthe proper size should pretty much fit before it's molded, molding it will form it to your foot better, basically like breaking it in. It's like a hiking boot new out of the box, and then after you've been wearing them for a season. Don't expect miracle size changes. Good luck. :-)

Trip: Mt. Stone - Route 1 Date: 11/24/2007 Trip Report: After some tasty turkey, and a day for it to settle, I headed out with my old friend David who was home visiting family as well. The weather forecast wasn't real clear, but I figured since I'd never been up to Lake of the Angels before it would be a good choice with the possibility of climbing something if conditions looked good. Something white was lightly falling from the sky as we turned onto the Hamma Hamma road. David said it must be lots of lichen coming off the tree. We started the hike in and as we busted up out of the trees at the end of the maintained trail, the sun also busted through the clouds. Mt. Stone looked good so we headed up towards the standard route, little did we know that you can't see the rimey summit from the trail. We headed up the snow which made travel really easy. The recent snow had already consolidated for good travel, probably all fluffy again now though. We climbed up under the cliffs and traversed left and up to the ridge (skyline). Here was the first steep bit. The snow wasn't bad, but there was some hard ice under it so we put crampons on after this. One more little icy step popped us onto the ridge and we finally got a good view of the real summit. As you can see, the clouds came back with wind and some more lichen. Looking at the thin coating of ice over the rock was not inspiring given our lack of a rope and my dull aluminum axe and crampons. We investigated anyways. Right before turning around to head down, the sun reemerged striking new confidence into our hearts. Uncovering the cairn marking the route on the right we had overlooked helped too. The normally 3rd class rock was iced over, but I managed to chip out a few of the key holds and made my way up about 20 feet to easier ground. David wasn't as comfortable with the need to downclimb the icy rocks and sent me up the last 100 feet on my own. Here is the obligatory summit self portrait. It took about 5 hours from the car. I headed down after a minute. At the top of the sketchy downclimb I tossed my pack down to David and then picked my way down. I got a couple of solid sticks in the ice with my aluminum axe and made it down. We gathered our stuff and headed down. Here David points back. The summit block looks nicer in the sun. The route is on the far right up the ice smear to the snow. Here is David coming down the last bit: On the way down Mt. Pershing lit up with the sunset. I'd like to get up there too. On the trail out we waited a bit to check on some kids coming down behind us to make sure they had a light, and then strolled back to the car. There was one other party signed it that said they were climbing Stone too, but it looked like they were spending the night at the lake first (which I still haven't actually seen). Great climb, the conditions really made it a bit more interesting than usual and it was good to climb with David again. I'll definitely have to explore that area more. I wonder if that waterfall on the approach ever freezes? More pictures can be found here: Picasa Web Album Gear Notes: Aluminum axe and crampons. Approach Notes: Putvin Trail almost to Lake of the Angels, head up right into the bowl below Stone when you can (4,500 ft), the snow started around 4,000 ft but wasn't deep. That's probably changed now.

In Vermont it was never a problem. Here though, my impression is that the parking is often more of an issue than the climbing since the road side is often narrow near the road cut (hence the reason for the cut) and parking in such areas is often illegal, even when you think you are all the way off the road. Sometimes cops keep their eyes open for abandoned, broken down, or slid off the road cars near these icy areas where people don't usually park and when they find out you are none of the above, they are annoyed at having stopped for no good reason. I think the nuisance/distraction issue is less likely to come up if your car is nowhere to be seen (parked in a lot or off a side road). I think proximity to ski areas increases the chances you'll get an annoyed cop too. Then again, don't come crying to me if you get a ticket while following my advice. ;-)

You mean you had a thumbs width of room when you try on just the liner, and then no room when you try on the liner and the boot? Maybe the liner is too big for the boot? I think you are supposed to size the shell first, and you should have about 1.5 fingers fit behind your heel in the shell only with your toes at the front. Mine are fit this way. My left foot is a tad smaller than my right so my left liner shrank to fit it and it is a tad loose in the shell but doesn't seem to affect anything when laced up. There is a fair amount of give when you mold the liner, you need to make sure the shell is the right size first.

Yep, just heat up an old knife with a torch or your stove top and cut away, pretty much works the same as an electric hot knife. It helps to cut on a cutting board or something just like you would with the electric knife, just slowly press the well heated blade into the rope. A soldering iron works too, some even have a cutting blade.

Hardware is cheaper than most PLBs, the $99/year for service is about the same I think. I like that you can transmit a "help, send rescue" message, "help send friends" and "check in" feature instead of just an emergency broadcast. Never used one though, probably wouldn't bother unless I was doing another real remote trip. Doesn't look like they have much coverage in Kyrgyzstan. I guess that's another thread though.

All right, sound like a party! Thanks for that extra bit of info John, you coming to the party too? I'll put it on my calendar to see if we can organize something for early summer. :-)

Damn thing always sells out before I hear about it. I'm looking for one ticket too. - S

Still no takers? Anyone for anything on Sunday? You can't just sit there and watch the Everest reality show ALL day, even if it is raining!

Welp, add my name to the list. I've been up there in summer but not winter. About 50% of the time I can escape work on short notice if we get a good window. Weekends are pretty easy to extend one way or the other. ;-)

The weather sucks most everywhere and the doc says I should ease back into using my shoulder, so I guess it's time for a "training hike". Or maybe exploring a mine or something since then you'll be wet either way and I know a couple I want to check out. I'm up for either sat or sunday (possibly both), have a car, am in the Fremont (Seattle) area, etc. Anyone else just need to get outside? I'm headed to dinner and movies soon, but PM me your phone number and I'll call when I get home (give me a "don't call after" time). I'll even put an extra beer in my pack for you. - OMB

Put me down for one!

Cool, thanks for that info John. It sounds like we need a cc.com gathering in the Constance area next year! I saw some lines on Inner Constance from Home Lake that I'd like to try (bring your helmets), and lots of other peaks it would be awesome to explore. I'd love to spend several days just hinging out up there.

This makes me wanna cry. So sad but true. I loved that show, even when I was like 8 and didn't get half of it. OMB (in his last holdout of an apartment building in Fremont, surrounded by new townhouses, condos, and construction sites)

I thought this was them: Maybe that other one if for the advanced class when they don't have to be in large groups.

Not sure if this made it in another forum or not, but it's pretty cool, especially over only 4 years. http://www.ptleader.com/main.asp?SectionID=36&SubSectionID=55&ArticleID=19166&TM=18059.3 From the PT Leader, 10/31 PT couple summits 44 Olympic peaks By Celeste Flint, Leader Staff Writer Although names such as Desperation Peak, Gasp Pinnacle and Devil's Fang would cause most to imagine frightening images of people dangling helplessly off the side of a cliff, one Port Townsend couple thinks they're rather neat. Perhaps this is because the couple has summited each of these peaks, along with the 41 other 7,000-foot-plus peaks in the Olympic Mountain range. It began about four years ago, when friends of Henry and Karen Nichols took them on a climb up Mount Olympus for Henry's 50th birthday. Henry is a Port Townsend dentist, and Karen works in his office. "We've been in the mountains all of our lives. We just never climbed," Henry said. "It made us realize there was a whole vertical dimension that we hadn't explored." After scaling Mount Olympus, the Nichols started learning more about climbing by taking classes and practicing in a gym. Then they found "the book," titled the Climber's Guide to the Olympic Mountains. At the guide's end there is a list of the peaks organized by height. The Nichols' copy has check marks next to the tallest ones. "We saw the list and said maybe we should do that, so we did," Henry said. Although the couple is uncertain about Henry being the first man to accomplish the feat, they're fairly confident Karen is the first woman to summit all of the Olympic Mountain peaks. "We're pretty sure we're the only couple who have done it," Henry said. They said that climbing is a great sport for people of all ages. "It gives you incredible access to beauty and incredible things people never get to see," Karen said. After the Nichols accomplished their goal of climbing all the Olympic peaks in summer 2006, one of the peaks was removed from the 7,000-feet-and-higher list. The Nichols are guessing it has to do with global positioning systems being able to provide more accurate heights. "It's sort of like Pluto," Karen said. Pluto was recently demoted from its "planet" classification to "dwarf planet." Challenges Before getting to a summit, climbers have to do a fair amount of hiking, and the peaks aren't always easy to find. "One of the problems with the Olympics is that the approaches are really long," Henry said. They'd often have to hike 18 to 25 miles before they could set up camp and begin climbing. "Most of the approaches are on trails, but there is significant elevation gain," Henry said. Because the hike-ins are so long, the Nichols often climbed multiple peaks in one trip. Their longest trip was more than 10 days, in which they summited 10 peaks. Once the climbing began, they left the trails, so it was important that they were good at finding routes, reading maps and using a hand-held GPS. "It's kind of fun, because it challenges you to find some of [the peaks]," Karen said. Long approaches mean climbers need to bring all the appropriate hiking gear as well. Consequently, packs can weigh as much as 70 pounds. "The main issue is that you want to be frugal with your weight," Henry said. "Karen dehydrated our food." On one hike they even had some friends hike in with a supply of food. "We had support from some of our buddies," Karen noted. In addition to long approaches, the Olympic Mountains aren't popular because the rock is "bad," or "rotten." "The rock is not solid. It's loose, and quite often the rock will come off in your hand," Karen said. This loose rock also causes a significant amount of rock fall, which makes wearing a helmet critical. "We have both been hit by rocks, but neither of us has ever been scared," Henry said. "I don't think it's that dangerous; it's hard, though." One of the more difficult climbs was up Sniffer Spire. "The rock is really bad and there isn't a lot of protection, and it's pretty technical," Henry said. When the couple reached the top, they found the climber registry under an empty tuna fish can. Judging by the registry, they think they were the third group to summit the peak. The first group reached it in 1962, and the second summit was in the 1970s. Preparation Before climbing, the Nichols prepare physically by working out five or six days a week for as long as an hour. "We 'Nordic Ski' quite a bit, and we row in rowing shells. We hike a lot," said Karen. "We do fast walking with hand weights." They said that weight training is also important. However, they don't run, because it's hard on their knees. They also suggested that before climbers start hiking, they make a gear list and check each other's bags before leaving for the mountain. Technical climbing Since summiting all of the Olympic peaks, the Nichols haven't done much hiking in the peninsula range. "Our interest now lies in more technical climbing," Henry said. "With better rock," Karen added. Technical climbing requires more strategy, and many consider it a key factor in the difficulty of a climb. "It's sort of like a puzzle," Karen said. "It all has to be planned and strategized." They said they plan on climbing in the Cascades more often, and they just returned from a three-week trip to Europe, where they climbed for two weeks. "That was all technical climbing," Karen said. During the trip, they started by climbing in the Dolomites of northeast Italy and finished in the Julian Alps of Slovenia. "It's pretty much a limitless challenge," Henry said of climbing. "I think the whole conquering thing is a misconception." "It's the journey, not the summit," Karen added.

Ned, here is a picture looking up the cirque towards the east. This was taken standing a bit past the gully of the main route, the mass of Warrior rises up to the left and there were no other real options until the main gully splitting the peaks. We took the gully heading up and right as the left hand option looked more difficult than the 3rd class we were expecting (maybe not true, it look easier from closer). Out of the frame on the right is the glacier and the pass. I'm thinking maybe we should have taken the left gully as the right hand one sure adds a bit of ridge work.

I put a few more pictures up here: http://picasaweb.google.com/matthiesen/WarriorPeakClimb Nothing terribly new, but some more nice terrain shots. Diretissimo, Animal pointed it out to you, that picture was taken from Constance Pass, there are some similar pics in my picasaweb folder. I would be up for going up C-141 as well, it looks like a nice climb with some interesting and sad history. Do you, or anyone else, know exactly which glacier your father's plane crashed into? As I recall, the wreckage was left in place. With all the glacial retreat we're seeing, I wonder if we'll start to see some bits of the plane emerging from the ice over the next years.

Awesome, cows from god! 1. Why did they continue driving a mile after this happened? 2. Where is the picture, the tv news just had a map to show. I know someone had a cell phone camera!

Yay! Yay! Yay! Can you tell I'm excited!

We spent the night at Home Lake and then headed down to the boulder field and up from there. It was a bit south of the minor waterfall. It was actually much easier than I thought it would be with no snow. We were able to stay out of the slide alder entirely, basically headed straight up towards Inner Constance and the traversing back north below the cliffs to get back near the creek that comes out from the Warrior-Inner Constance cirque. We went back down the same way. It was a bit annoying in the scree in spots, but not a schwack by any Olympics standards. I'll try to get my pics up, I had some better ones showing the gullies we saw and the one we went up.