OlympicMtnBoy

Trip: Yosemite - Leaning Tower - West Face, 5.7 C2F - Solo Date: 5/27/2008 Trip Report: Whaddya know, I really can solo grade V eh? Pictures are here: picasa Back in 2005 when I was last in Yosemite, being partnerless I contemplated Leaning Tower as a solo trip, but never quite got up the nerve and just found partners for some free climbing. This year, a wedding brought me to San Francisco for Memorial Day and I figured I could probably stretch my vacation for the whole week and just drive down. Since none of my usual aid partners were free, the idea of a solo crept back into my mind. I figured I could use some time on my own for a bit, so I loaded up the haul bag. Last year I spent a few days at Index soloing single pitch stuff with a grigri, and I'd done a few short walls with partners, so why not go for it? I loaded up my haulbag and headed down. Day 1 I arrived in the valley early to somewhat ugle looking skies, parked at Bridalveil Falls, and hauled my first load up with all my hardware and ropes and stuff. The approach was fairly easy to find with the Supertopo guidebook. I dropped my pack and headed out to check out the exposed 4th class to the base of the route unencumbered. I found another party in the process of bailing from halfway up the first pitch bolt ladder due to weather (??). They were the only aid climbers I'd see on the wall. Caching my gear I headed back down for the next load. I had some lunch at the car, moved it out of the parking lot where you aren't allowed to park overnight, and picked up my much heavier haulbag loaded with 4 days of food and water (too much) as well as an unneeded portaledge and fly. The second trip to the base of the wall sucked, especially when the weather broke and it poured rain on me. I was glad for the fixed rope across the fourth class with the huge load too. Just as I arrived at the start of the route again I was greeted by two free climbers rapping down a fixed line. They told me the weather was supposed to get worse. Oh well, this route overhangs right? So there I was, already 400 ft off the ground due to the ledge approach, with all my gear. Shit, I guess I better climb eh? How did it get to be 3:00 in the afternoon already? Maybe I should start tomorrow and see what the weather does? Aww fuck it, I racked up and started out. Pitches one and two are bolt ladders and can be combined to almost exactly 60 meters, so just went for it. By the time I rapped my haul line, and then cleaned the route it was already 7, no way I'm hauling and camping. I went back down to the one person bivy ledge right at the base for a good nights sleep. Day 2 I jugged back up, realizing I'm out of jugging shape, and then made relatively short work of the haul given the free hanging nature of the line. You can see exactly how overhanging this all is in my pics. Mikey and Justin, the free climbers, jugged past me on the fixed line again to finish their free attempt on the route. I climbed and hauled to Guano Ledge at the top of pitch 4 and decided I ought to just bivy on the spacious Ahwanee ledge nearby since there wasn't anyone else there. I took a nice late lunch break and then headed out to climb, clean, and fix pitches 5 and 6. Right as I started I realized the weather was back and it was pouring rain about 30 feet out from me. Then it started to drip a bit on me. No prob, it's pretty sheltered. Around the middle of pitch 5 it started to hail, right when I got to the only exposed part of the route. I was not happy, but there was only one way to go, and soon I was dry at the belay again. I actually managed to clean the traverse without too much trouble and was still pretty happy with myself at the end of the day as i popped open a Guinness. Day 3 I had a leisurely morning alone, then headed up again. As I rapped down from the top of pitch 8 to clean I met another pair of free climbers. I was ready for lunch so I hung out at the top of 8 while they combined 8 and 9. It was cool to watch someone free climb a 5.12b roof right over my head. Maybe next time I'll free it, but as soon as they were clean i had my fun aiding through it. Before I know it I was at the top of pitch 10 behind them and done with the route! Now I had the scariest moment of the climb, rapping my haul line off the top with over 1000 feet of air below me. Now I wished I had a beefier haul line (mine was 9 mm). No probs though, I lowered out the bag, cleaned, and was back on the comfy bivy ledge with all my gear by 7:30. My final beer was well earned. Day 4 I slept in, explored the summit, photographed some lizards in the sun, and then packed up. I had over a gallon of extra water and tons of food still, but I was at the top and it was time to head down. I left the water for the next thirsty party and headed down. I'm sure there is a way to link the rap stations with fewer stops, but still the trip down the chimneys wasn't bad. It was much nicer when I could hang the bag under me and didn't have to wear it, but I still made it down. The final hike out from the base with EVERYTHING in my haulbag REALLY sucked, but despite costant visions of twisted knees and such I eventually stumbled back into the parking lot and then down the road to my car. So that was it? Yep, I soloed me a wall and absolutely nothing exciting happened during it. How cool is that? No go look at the pictures, i think they much be more interesting than my text. Gear Notes: There is so much fixed gear it's almost a sport climb, but I took two sets of cams from ~black alien to #3 camalot, one #4, one set of offset aliens, one set of offset nuts (brass to aluminum sizes), one set of normal nuts and micro nuts, two sets of ball nuts (love those things), and a few hooks (which I used to basically avoid all but two moves of free climbing). I took a portaledge thinking I might be slow or the real ledges might be crowded, never brought it out of the bag. Approach Notes: Head left from the bathrooms, left of the house sized boulder, and then follow the trail and cairns.

I'm headed that way too, but leaving on the 22nd (evening) from Portland and coming back the following weekend. Sounds like we might be coming back at the same time but with two cars. Anyone else want a ride with me? I'd have to drop you off at the train station on the way there though cause I'm going to a wedding in San Fran first.

Nice! I wanna go there! I love the holes and cracks in the pavement.

Is it too late to request my ?? If not I'll take 3 or so! I'll be wearing my cool shirt with my name tag on it so everyone can point me to the right shelter.

I like my Ice 9000s, used em in Peru last year and they were super toasty warm. They made a few long approaches without difficulty too. Fairly light and dexterous for double boots too. I don't know what has replaced them though.

FWIW, it's only in the NEW edition of the climbers guide, linked to above, and not the old one with Mt. Cruiser on the cover.

I got all the way to page 4 and there aren't any pictures! @(*$@)!

Yep, done it on a 60 several times, it will get you to the top of the boulder. Make sure you are exactly at the middle for the anchors, and make sure it's not your buddys 60 where he forgot to tell you it's really only 55 now after that last crampon hit.

I use a 12 liter MEC pack that I think has been discontinued, but it's very similar to the BD Bbee or Bullet. All the stuff you listed, can fit into one of those (and nothing else). When I did Epinephrine a few weeks ago (16 pitch, 5.9, plus a lengthy walk off) we both ended up carrying a pack of this size to accommodate extra water and insulation. I find I still want my jacket, water, and snacks with me on long routes so I can be warm, eating, and drinking while I bring the follower up, especially since we led in blocks, so having my own pack is still nice. In the harder chimney pitches we clipped both packs together and had the follower bring them up on a sling under him, otherwise each carried his own. If I really wanted just one pack for two people, the MEC Alpinlite is pretty good.

I walked over to check that wall out once too. It was pretty chossy, but looked like it might be fun aid climbing. If it was close to the road it might have a line or two on it. Right now it's lots of moss and lichen.

Town Crier, Green Dragon, probably lots more.

Hey, just in time! My new skis just came in the mail yesterday! Maybe I can figure out how to put them on and get up and down a hill before the ski-in? Hmmm . . .

Don't tell me this is an April fools joke. I definitely need some of those on my aid rack!

Bump, going to UPS tomorrow.

So i got these from STP ( http://www.sierratradingpost.com/Reviews/96435_Tecnica-Mountain-Approach-Shoes-For-Men.html ) but then decided I wanted a 10.5 for a little tighter fit. I can pay the $6 to send the size 11 back, or I can pass my good deal on to you (now they're $40 + shipping at STP). I'm in Fremont and I'd prefer you pick them up, since otherwise it's easier to slap the preprinted UPS return label on then. If no one wants these in a day or two off they go. :-) It's a pretty good deal for a decent approach shoe, seems like they'll scramble well and they're fairly comfortable. I normally wear a 11 or 11.5 if that helps. - OMB

A friend of mine had the same thing happen on his gregory pack a couple years ago. He sent the strap back to gregory and they sent him a new sternum strap free. Might be worth a try unless you need on ASAP.

Awww, yer just trying too hard to get good at something . . .

Back to the original topic, thanks for putting those up! It was fun to get a little drytool fix a couple times this winter when I could only get out after work. I hope you guys will do the same thing next year! :-)

Hehe, this seems like a good way to wake up. I seem to have the same problem. Also being lazy I'm pretty sure I won't ever be an expert at most of these, but maybe I can get "pretty good". Variety is the spice of life eh? This year: Rock Climbing Ice Climbing Aid Climbing Mountaineering Backpacking Day Hiking Sea Kayaking Sewing clothes/outdoor gear Skiing Snowshoeing Muzzeloader shooting Hunting Scuba diving Snorkeling Traveling Cooking Drawing Welding (for fun) Gardening Sailing Remodeling the boat Canyoneering Mountain Biking And there is a whole 'nother list of things I'd LIKE to do if the opportunity arises for me to try them (paragliding, whitewater kayaking, etc).

It would be possible in something like that, but you'll likely have to take some of the creek wash crossings and such out of the road ruts, meaning you might be scraping against the bushes and stuff. If you have a rent a car this can be an issue. I'd go for something with a bit more ground clearance and 4wd if you can. Or maybe the road topo lists a better route, there are roads crisscrossing that area, you might be able to patch together a decent route, but it won't be the obvious one.

Trip: Red Rocks - Frogland and Epinephrine Date: 3/8/2008 Trip Report: It seemed like a good week to start the weekend real early, so I hopped on the plane on Wednesday after work (ok, so i bought my tickets a couple months ago when they were super cheap), and met up with an old friend from the Peace Corps and hung out on the strip for a day. On Thursday my climbing partner Brendan showed up so on Friday we headed out to the Black Velvet Canyon trailhead to warm up on Frogland, a nice 6 pitch 5.8. Problem was we couldn't find the road to the trailhead. After driving up and down the highway a few times, we finally realized that the road we wanted now lay behind a gate and a construction site. There is an alternate road, but it required a high clearance vehicle, not our VW Rabbit rental. Hey, it's only like a 3 mile walk though, so off we trudge into the sun and dust. Fortunately we only had to walk for 3 or 4 minutes before someone came along and stopped for my outstretched thumb and sad look. Of course they already had a truck box and two bikes and three people in the vehicle, but we crammed, me on top of the boc, and Brendan sandwiched with the bikes. We made it to the TH and picked up Josh who we decided would follow behind us and solo TR on rope we'd fix for each pitch. Brendan and I wanted to make sure our two person team was up to speed for Epinephrine, so that method was easiest and Josh would get a lot more climbing than rope soloing on his own. By now it was nearly 1 PM. But we got to the base of the route without much delay. Frogland was a good solid fun time and a highly recommended route. We summited Whiskey Peak and then made our way down the descent (which is also the last 1/3 of the descent from Epinephrine) and back to the packs before dark. We stashed some gear knowing we'd be back that way early in the morning and likely hiking in. After a quick bit back in town we were in bed, and then out again at 3 AM. Some truck stop coffee got us to the right spot on the side of the road and we started hiking. It only took us 45 mins or so to hike to the TH and we quickly found our stashed gear and loaded up with another team just arriving in their truck. We made it to the base of Epinephrine about 15 mins ahead of another party of two but got on the route first. Unfortunately I got off route in the middle of the first pitch (missed a key bolt to head towards) and the other party caught up on the alternate start. They said one of them had done the route before and they were going to do some linking/simuling so we let them go ahead (I know, I know). We followed on their heels, but without too much waiting to the base of the 5.9 chimney fun. The day before, when discussing if we wanted to do Epi or not, I had volunteered to lead a block of the first 5 pitches, including all the chimneys, if Brendan would haul both our packs, so we lashed out two tiny packs together for him to dangle off a sling. As soon as the other team cleared them I started up. For me it was one of the funnest pitches of the route, fairly slick but solid chimneying, and only really runout for one section near the top. I actually missed the "real" belay and went nearly a full rope length to an alternate station. From there some more fun 5.9 bulges, and a scary 5.8 runout bolted chimney that felt harder for me, finally got us to the top of that bit. Then the route changed to mostly face climbing with big patina holds and I let Brendan take over the leading for the next 5 pitches. You really get some good exposure from up there, especially since the climbing feel like the gym with such huge holds. The party ahead of us finally realized we were probably slightly faster than them and waited for us to pass (thanks guys!) at pitch 7 and we cruised the rest. The last runout bit wasn't bad, then past a super juggy roof and on to the easy stuff. We mostly simuled and swung long leads for the last 6 pitches. We hit the summit, snapped a few more pics and then headed down, managing the descent in the last remaining light. Back at the parking lot we could see some headlamps on various descent routes, but no one nearby, so we opted to hike back out instead of trying to bum a ride, thus making our trip "car to car from the highway". We thought that should be a milestone of some sort, at least it encouraged us for the last bit of hiking. Chile's fed us and we camped out in the wind for a final night. Our last day was spent just hiking around and checking stuff out before heading back to town. I picked up a couple women in the Bellagio and won and lost some of their money playing roulette, but that's another story for another board. All in all, a fricking awesome couple of days of climbing for my first Red Rocks trip. And the scary chimneys ended up being the highlight for me! More pictures are up here (cause they aren't showing up right inline right now): http://picasaweb.google.com/brendan.mcmahan/RedRocksWithStewart Gear Notes: Nuts, double set of cams from green alien to #3 camalot, plus one #4. Approach Notes: Main road to Black Velvet is closed due to construction, take a 4WD or high clearance vehicle on the back road or hike.

Nice job, lookin good there.

Nylon repair tape, works great and you might find a color to match, check REI or most sporting goods stores (Swains or Browns in your area). Or Seattle Outdoor Fabrics. If the hole is really big I normally hand stitch it shut and then cut a patch with rounded edges of the repair tape. I find running a warm iron over the patch helps make it more permanent. The patches on my Wildthings Epic jacket are still there after several washes and 3 years.

Don't forget the Needles in the Olympics!

Oooh, ooh, pick me! Pick me! I volunteer for the Committee to Fix Everything! Oh and the one to execute the bad people! Is there a committee to choke Steven Segal? I'll be on that one too!