OlympicMtnBoy

Nice, my favorite alpine shoe too, sized a size bigger than my normal shoes to accommodate socks and long days. Just got my pair resoled though.

For glacier travel I use a super light CAMP harness and clip the few pieces (picket, screw, pulley, biners) to the pack waist belt or other convenient spot. The harness is soft and under the pack hip belt. I assume that when I stop I'll be able to take my pack off in relatively stable terrain and not need my gear (no hanging belays). If it's a harder route I'll choose a pack/hipbelt that is lower profile and doesn't interfere as much with the front two gear loops on my harness. My pack is normally light enough to not need as cushy of a hip belt then and I can take it off at belays and hang it from the anchor. Just try it out and see what's comfortable and allows you to reach what you need quickly, it will differe a bit with each pack harness combo and what gear you are trying to rack.

I don't recall any issues with route finding and we did it with only 3 nuts in about one third the time. Plus we did it car to car. And we had better beer.

Cool, glad I inspired someone else to get out there (and to eat sausage)! You are correct on the name in Beckey, I must have been embellishing. ;-)

Your original loop idea is doable BTW. There is a little bit of bushwhacking but there is still a fishermans route down from Toketie Lake (don't follow the creek). It's hot, long, and annoying and has lots of burn debris, but not that hard to follow.

Nice job, I think that's a fun climb, not so much for the rock but for the cool alpine ambiance. When we did it a few years ago we didn't have to rappel on the descent which is the 4th class scramble route to the top. I do recall one or two anchors that we scrambled left or right to get around without rapping (we only took a 30m rope).

When I still wore contacts I couldn't wear them overnight and they weren't disposable, but I still preferred them to glasses in the backcountry because I used to have huge steaming issues, rain on them, etc. I just found a small ~1oz bottle for multi-purpose solution and pre-filled the lens case. If you are new to contacts it also helps to practice so you don't need a mirror to put them in. Also make sure you wash your hands in the morning and around your eyes or you'll get sunscreen/bugspray/campfire smoke in your eyes and it sucks. It works though. Of course after 10 years of full time contact usage my eyes stopped tolerating them so I'm back to glasses, but newer smaller thinner and lighter glasses help too.

Done.

If you quit dickin around the first few days you might actually get up a big route next time. Hehehe, just kidding. Nice job guys! Sorry I missed this one, maybe the wall bug will be back this fall.

Hmm, we saw several large boulders, some with snow still under them, but must have missed the "perfect" bivy boulder. The wind was howling that evening so we opted for the "also perfect" melted out spot in the trees. It seems improbable with that much snow in the valley, but there always seems to be a spot in the trees by the tarn by mid-June. Ivan should know how much I love sausages.

Sweet, I've been wanting to get back up in that area again, looks like fun except where it isn't. ;-)

Trip: Crystal Lake Spire - SW Rib - 19p, 5.8 Date: 6/28/2012 Trip Report: There are blanks on the map, places illustrated with dragons and skulls and names like nightmares. Some of these places lie in our back yards, just off the beaten path, but never visited by those who return to tell the tale. This is the story of one of those places . . . Ok, not really, but judging by der internets, people don’t go here very often despite it being spitting distance from Prussik and the Enchantments. Or at least the people who do visit are a little strange. I knew the approach wasn’t too bad from a day hike last year so I recruited James (he had no idea what he signed on for) to head up and check out a mysterious 19 pitch 5.8 line on Crystal Lake Spire. Crystal Lake Spire has nearly zero prominence from McClellan Ridge and the Chessmen as you look at it from the Upper Enchantments, but it rises in a beautiful ridge over 2000 ft. from the floor of Crystal Creek valley. We struck out under gray skies with a light rain and were soon soaked by the bushes overhanging the Ingalls Creek trail but it kept us cool and we hoped to take advantage of clear weather the next day. We made quick work of the trail and fairly quick work of the off-trail bit and were at camp after about 6 hours with a few stops. The Bangers and Mash James brought along were just what was needed in the cold and very windy evening. We crawled into our bags early. - brought to you by Salted Nut Roll - The SW Rib is the obvious ridge up the center of this pic although the summit is not visible. Unfortunately being on the bottom of a steep valley means late sun so it was still pretty chilly when we set out at 7 the next morning under the forecasted perfect blue skies. It was only about a ten minute walk to get onto the toe of the SW Rib and after a short constitutional break we scrambled up gullies a few hundred feet and then roped up on a sloping sandy ledge below a steeper looking bit. Some easy simuling and one short hand/fist crack got us above the bulge and we began following the more defined ridge higher. Stellar ridge scrambling interspersed with easy climbing led us higher and higher to the base of an obvious white headwall mentioned in the brief Beckey description. We followed the obvious ramp up and left and back onto the ridge crest past some loose rock and tiny bits of snow and ice still clinging on. We finally broke into the sun and had a nice break then James set off up a gravelly chimney and I enjoyed a stellar 5.8 finger crack and some more great ridge climbing. One more pitch, with a short traverse where we should have gone straight up the nice 5.9 looking hand crack brought us to the summit . . . of one of the major points on the ridge. Here we found a small rock cairn, the first sign of any other human travel in this area at all. Not knowing exactly what still lay between us and the summit we took a quick picture then headed on, downclimbing a bit along the ridge from the point and then taking another ramp up and left around a steep headwall. Some more ridge scrambling, another short but protected downclimb, and one more simul pitch up and right of the last steep bit brought us to some compact cracks and then the true summit boulders. Swarms of thousands of ladybugs greeted us and we basked in the sun on the top. - Looking back at the spire we topped out. Overall about 8 hours on the route with four simul blocks and four pitches which probably is close to the 19 pitches mentioned in Beckey although the wording was a bit curious since nothing else around is described that way. I made the scramble up the nearest Chessman and we enjoyed several long glissades making it back to camp in the valley in less than an hour and a half. We soaked our feet in the Crystal Creek Tarn which has mysteriously lost a good foot of water that day (ice dam melt with the warmer day?), and enjoyed camp before hiking out in the morning. No dragons or skulls, but a heck of a great trip with some fun moderate climbing and hardly any sign of humans merely a stones throw away from the usual hordes! Great area and plenty of more climbs in the book or new! I'd be happy to head back in there if anyone has the desire! I'll try to draw a route line on one of these pics later. A couple more bonus scenery shots: Lots more pics here: https://picasaweb.google.com/104708573545176184583/CrystalLakeSpireWithJames# Gear Notes: Took a double rack to #2 plus a #3 and some large hexes. Big gear not needed. Aluminum ice axe handy for the cold morning and afternoon glissading. Approach Notes: Head 7.7 miles up Ingalls Creek, turn right up Crystal Creek and head 2.5 miles up, look for cairns.

Haven't used one but I'd guess it would work just fine. Neither the weight or the price is unreasonable and Sierra Designs has been making tents and stuff for a long time with some good gear. Try it out and let us know!

I decided to tag along with my girlfriends work trip to Portland next week (leaving monday morning). I don't have much going on during the days so I'm hoping to get outside in the nice weather. Anybody want to climb something? I haven't climbed much there other than Hood, Smith and Trout Creek (I know, not quite PDX). I'd love to check out other local areas, the open parts of Beacon (never been there), or some obscure alpine rock. Leading 10+/11- trad or sport. Also happy to aid or climb snow (probably not Hood since I'd have to pack my skis too) but I'd need to pack that gear tonight. Let me know if you are interested!

There was a rescue up there Sunday the 17th. No idea if it's related but there's a thread around here somewhere. http://www.kimatv.com/news/local/Authorities-respond-to-2-seperate-backcountry-rescues-159505165.html

Nice, this is a great time of year to do that one. Did you take the right hand variation on the first pitch, I started up that and then opted for the less mossy standard way left. I couldn't tell from your pic.

I can't recall the stats but I know my Kong Ghost (which is basically new and I'd sell) and Cassin Piu 2 both handle skinny ropes a tad better than the BD and Petzl Reverso (haven'tried the newest version of either though). This is just based on my experience though and I haven't used either one a ton with really skinny twins, they may or may not be rated as such.

Yep, I tape if I'm expecting hand or fist jamming and it's steep enough that I'll be really weighting my jams. Maybe I just have soft skin and it takes forever to heal or gets bloodied up when I climb next. I'm sure we could all use better technique but I've certainly seen friends who would climb better if they were willing to tape because they always get bloody or are in pain. Then again, plenty of people climb hard without it too. Always pack it out! I normally just leave mine on till I get back to the car anyways, also protects your hands if the descent is crappy.

Anyone want to leave for Alaska early next week with Fred Beckey? Sounds like he had a few partners bail on him last minute and he's already got an airline ticket for Monday (could change by a few days if needed). He might even be desperate enough to help with your airfare. Having been to Alaska with him a few years ago I'd suggest a lot of patience and a sense of humor, but also say that it can be a great time and you'll meet fun folks along the way. A good strategy is to have two people plus Fred. He is 89 but does get around pretty well. Or if anyone is already in Alaska and wants to meet up? PM met and I'll put you in touch.

Dropped an old Chounaird straight sided nut up there years ago doing the runnel bypass (they were dry). Be a wonder if that's what you found though.

Why's Careno not on the 5.10 and under list? You could hammer out a nice variety of ~14 pitches with Careno Corners, Bale-Kramer, and the Regular route, good stuff from 5.7-10b even if the pitches are a little short. A few other good ones in the area too.

I've been pretty happy with the Primus version of Jetboil, the Eta Solo (almost identical and Primus used to make the burners for jetboil). It seems a little more durable, has a better more positive attachment to the pot, and comes with a handy hanging kit, pot supports, etc and it's cheaper. No melting parts or anything in the last couple of years with mine. http://www.primus.eu/templates/pages/product.aspx?ItemId=90563

http://www.wildsnow.com/6599/la-sportiva-ski-boots/ Haven't tried em either but they look to be in the same niche as the TLT5, Scarpa Alien, etc which is more oriented towards uphill ad climbing. Those aren't exactly on the part of the shelf I'd be looking at for an all-around touring boot. I don't now your purposes/experience but some of the recommendations upthread might fit the gap between the Spitfire and the Mobe better. Or if they fit you can probably learn to ski em if you work at it hard enough and you'll enjoy the uphill more. :-)

I was up with Monty and I agree, conditions were kind of crappy for either skiing or climbing. Didn't see much ice anywhere and stuff was either crusty or wallowy. Hopefully it'll set up better but it's not there yet.

Why exactly would you need your pancake batter to be pressurized from an intended use point of view?