OlympicMtnBoy

I've lived in Leavenworth for a little over two months now, does that count?

Nicely written TR! Not too many solo accounts of Guye are that fun to read. ;-)

Try Tvash's technique and you may have better luck with the Candela. I've been really happy with mine. I also use the "stick" part to push ice out of screws if it's too cold to blow them out and too wet for the ice bits to fall out with a tap on the top. That one never catches on my other gear like the coat hanger types. Never tried the rigid ones though.

I use nikwax, it makes them dirty yellow but it works. You might be fine not doing anything but I worried about the leather drying out and cracking eventually without some sort of conditioner, especially with repeated wetting and abrasion. Mine have survived almost ten years and still keep my feet dry. I retreat every couple years. I may have used snoseal once too which is pretty much the same thing I think.

A pretty good review here: http://www.outdoorgearlab.com/Portaledge-Reviews/Black-Diamond-Cliff-Cabana-Double-Portaledge My only experience with one was a pain in the ass to get the spreader bar on but otherwise giant and comfy. FISH makes some nice simple ledges if you don't need cup holders and stuff.

Wait. You mean you went there without skis??

I've been pretty happy with my Petzl Adjama as an all around harness, reasonable balance of weight and features and comfort. I found the Arcteryx options not terribly comfortable to hang in. I'd go with the Sama next time as I never use the adjustable leg loops either. I do like the plastic gear loops that have since been discontinued. For an alpine harness I use a CAMP XLH 95, basically when I don't expect much technical climbing or need to rack much gear. But you didn't ask about light alpine harnesses. ;-)

http://www.mizo.co.jp/mountain/ 9 variations of climbing hammer, can you name the uses? I don't speak Japanese. I do want the titanium shovel though.

Hehe, good luck finding one of those, haven't been made for a long time. You might check out the Grivel "steel blade" option. Or if you have friends in Japan Mizo makes a titanium version: http://beyondx.exblog.jp/8912752

Nice handiwork Pat! I use a small nail puller/hammer that I found in the hardware store for a few dollars, like a tiny hammer/crow bar. Works great for stubborn loose flakes on new routes too.

If it's a nice weekday I'd cross the pass and hit something up with you Pat, or we could have a solo aid party and get on routes next to each other and shout insults back and forth!

Here is a pic from last night with Vern of the Punchbowl/Trotsky's. He may be a bit more optimistic than I but at least Trotsky's Revenge took screws. The Cable was a great TR but very wet and not quite touching down (although some ice blobs at the start made the mixed moves easier). Extra fun in the dark after work. ;-)

Always fun to see winter stuff from the Olympics! Thanks!

I HAVE used both. The plastic just isn't going to get you through hard snow/ice chunks that you often encounter. In soft snow, they work great, so do a lot of things. Better than nothing, but not what I'd want in a real emergency. Snowclow actually made a metal "pro" version I was interested to check out but never have used.

Hey Nate, I'm around if you have some ideas for something that's not too much of a drive from L-worth. - S

I think I could also dig a snow cave with the plastic cutting board in my kitchen. Given enough time I could also do it with a spoon. So yes, you probably can. I would much rather have a "real" snow shovel with a metal blade for most conditions though. That looks like a nice light toy to play with in good weather or if you are rando racing and need to meet some arbitrary rule requirement for "having" avy gear. I used a Snowclaw once and it was functional but not what I'd want for real emergency shelters or for avalanche debris.

Can I come? I'm good at dropping unneeded gear!

Been raining hard and in the low 40s in Leavenworth, some of the stuff in the Tumwater might survive if it gets cold again, but looked pretty sketchy right now. I haven't been up the icicle since last week but I'd expect the same. Avy danger is going back up too with fresh wet snow but I hear the higher stuff might be better.

I'm out of town till the 27th but I'd be up for a trip from Leavenworth on the 28th or after. I'm still warming up my ice season so the hard leads are yours though. ;-)

You can come to Leavenworth and get one of mine. We even have some tiny bits of ice. Have to wait till after x-mas though. - S

My guess is that picture is just from the ice climbing up there and not the long snow/ice route listed in the book. There is some decent ice that forms up there near the lake most years for some ok single pitch cragging (except for the long approach and short days when its in). I think that picture you linked to is of someone on the ice flow to the far right of this pic from the same person: I've never heard of someone climbing the 1200 ft. line recently but it shouldn't be hard to climb something up to the ridge, lots of options. I would guess most people humping ice gear up there go for the shorter but harder ice flows instead of steep snow. Also might be pretty dry this year so maybe not enough snow right now? Ice climbing could be cool though without the snowpack, post pics if you go up there!

Those don't seem to have been available through mountain gear for a couple years now, not sure why they are still listed. I think the main use is for in-bounds avalanches (which DO happen) where the ski patrol is immediately on the scene with a Recco receiver to look for potential victims. I know at least some of the local resorts are equipped/trained. I'm not aware of any actual rescues but it seems like the system is getting more popular and probably wouldn't hurt (obviously never a replacement for a real beacon in the BC).

I think it's one of those things that are specifically not available separately or why would you buy the $800 jacket. Be handy to have one on the keychain though. Let me know if you find a source. Maybe find some older european gear or boots (aren't they built into some euro downhill boots?) you could get cheap and cut the reflector out? Edit: Looks like $30 or $40 on ebay would get you something if it's worth that much to ya.

Even with increased patrolling and enforcement, fee revenue won't cover enough of the operating costs. The first round cuts chose to decrease staffing and only close a few parks. I'd expect to see a lot more parks "mothballed" in the next year. :-( Beacon and Peshastin aren't exactly highest on the revenue generating list.

I think the La Sportiva Superfly was like that too but those are long gone.