olyclimber

Climb: Mt. Cruiser-Route 1-A Date of Climb: 2/27/2005 Trip Report: Alpinfox (Pax) and I (Porter) climbed Mt. Cruiser this past Sunday (February 27th). We had made an attempt to climb on January 28-29th, but opted out as we awoke to a snow covered rock, which had been clean and dry the previous weekend: Our first attempt was not a waste. During this first trip, we came up with an ingenious ad campaign for JetBoil stoves. One scenario involved and old couple sitting on a park bench and JetBoil Man. I'll spare you the details, but basically our financial futures are set and paved in green. Anyway, last weekend we saw a picture posted by Fairweather from his Mt. Washington climb that showed the Sawtooth range, and we could see that Mt. Cruiser was dry, so we decided to give it another go: We were able to drive past the Putvin trailhead this time, but soon after were stuck in the snow. After digging ourselves out and then getting stuck again, with some help from some Olympians, we got unstuck and turned around. We left the car at around 1pm and hiked up the road to the Mildred Lakes trailhead, and onto the lower Mildred lake by 5:30. We set up camp and hit the hay early. During the night a tiny snaffle scurried across my face and then was in my hair for a small time. We also heard a mysterious noise, which could have been an owl or maybe a cougar? We awoke to a perfect day (compare this with the picture above of our previous attempt): We left our camp at 8am and headed up to the upper lake. We decided to take the following route up: In our scramble up we came across the tracks of a big cat, which Alpinfox identified as either a creature part lion/part tiger....or a cougar (see above). We also found some excellent bouldering on the way up, as demonstrated by Alpinfox as shown here sending Tree Crack: We finally hit the snow fields and donned our crampons and headed up. The snow was consolidated, with a slushy crust. Finally we made it up to the base of the summit block and roped up. Here is Alpinfox headed up the 5.4 pitch of route 1A: We were able to make the summit in two pitches: one long one to a big platform, and one short scramble to the summit. We had 360 degree view of the Olympic mountains. Olympus: Mildred Lakes below: Alpinfox on the summit: #1 Best Belayer: ....and glissading down: We were back down at the camp in a couple of hours and made it out to the car by 6:30. The approach is definitely the hardest part to this easy rock climb, but the views were certainly rewarding. The existance of consolidated snow definitely made the traveling easier up on the ridge, and the recent sunny spell dried the rock of any snow or ice it may have had. According this this thread, there is a possiblity that Cruiser has not seen a winter season ascent before, but it would not surprise me to hear that has been done before. Thanks to Alpinfox for the ropegun duties, and thanks to Fairweather for posting the beta that helped us determine that the route was dry! Gear Notes: JetBoil Stove Extreme attitude Chocolate Halva Top Ramen 1 60m rope (with 10' of 3rd class downclimbing) alum. crampons ice axe #3 camalot (or equivalent) there are a few unnecessary bolts on the route Approach Notes: Road was drivable up to just past the Putvin trailhead. The trail in the trees was clear for the most part, but buried in snow in places.

Nice! How did that swami belt work out for you?

Sort of wierd to do system maintance in the middle of the day

Friggen sweet!

Time to die little Jimmy!

Hang in there troopers. The sun will shine on you some day, and it'll all be good. Then it will get too hot and you'll get a sunburn, and you'll wish it was raining again. Then it will start hailing and thunder and lightening. After that, it will be humid, yet uncomfortably chilly. Then, following this, there will be a period of weather you simply won't remember or won't mean much. Then you'll die. It's all about the weather.

Mike, you should join a choir.

Dear Sir, I have had a similiar issue, and will gladly share with you the solution to the problem. 1. Attach the file (as you have in the post). It will be viewable on by clicking on "Attachment" as it is right now. 2. Click on "Attachment" and you will see the image hosted at CC.com. Select the full URL of the image as hosted at CC.com. 3. Edit your original post. Post the full URL into an "Image" function as you normally do when referencing an image from another site. 4. Submit and celebrate your cleverness. Soon, as a result of your success, you will be rejoicing in the Alpine Environment. Life will seem different....some how better, undescribably filled to the brim with joy and happiness.

This tastes like the cow got into an onion patch.

thanks for everything awesome site and psiked to be hear!!! Olyclimber

You love it.

Great pictures Tim. Sounds exciting with the crevasse! This is amazing weather we have been having. Hopefully it will extend through this weekend!

I know some of yall aren't so fond of this rag, but the article about trolling on ClimbingBoulder.com is freak'n hilarious. I made me think about this place and some of the characters who post.

"I gots me a date fer the dance!"

Seattle Times article. The gem in this story is this bit:

I have the same plan Fairweather, but I had just planned on approaching from the north.

AssMonkey and HarryPi posted today. It is a regular family reunion going on here.

There are certain qualifications to get into that forum. You know what they are. You made the graph after all.

Sweet! I can't wait to hear about it.

You can also search a particular forum by selecting the forum and going to the bottom. There is a Search box down towards the bottom that will search just that Forum.

check PMs

There is information for getting published in the AAJ in the "Author Request Forum". You also may want to submit this to Alpinist.

Correct?