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Everything posted by olyclimber
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first winter ascent Stuart's complete N Ridge in Winter
olyclimber replied to Marko's topic in Alpine Lakes
Damn. I'll just leave this post as a cautionary tale to keep others from posting after an evening quaffing potent belgian ales at the Drunken Monkey.- 64 replies
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- alpine lakes
- mt stuart
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You forgot 1 sprayer to promptly make a lightbulb suit and post a picture of it.
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Damn I wish I got the channel his show is on.
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And that would give you the serious shits eating that much GU!
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Keep your pants on there, MrE!
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first winter ascent Stuart's complete N Ridge in Winter
olyclimber replied to Marko's topic in Alpine Lakes
I took a sniff of Colin tonight, and he is generous! But don't be expecting these guys to put out! Unless you go something Alpine up yer sleeve!- 64 replies
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Twight?:???????!!!!!!
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I got Alpinist X in the mail today But...fucking mangled again ! . Thats a real nice story there Geordie.
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Myth: Only the tail of the alligator is edible. Fact: Although the tail of the alligator is considered the prime cut, all the meat of the alligator is edible.
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I came across this site searching for something, and read some of his Trip Reports. Good stuff! Check out the Slesse TR. Some of his stories have been published in the usual climbing rags. George Bell's website Klenke, is that your car in that TR?
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Meet the brains of this operation:
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I'm LMAO !!!! This is too much!!!!
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Does this windshirt make me look fat? I was pregnant with a camera.
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Alligator in Lake Washington? This is truly a sign of global warming!
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I believe the conditions were probably as easy as it gets for this approach. Here is a link to some folks who did this approach in the summer. The snow covered up some the bushes they had to thwack through.
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But only the cute ones.
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Yes, I heard the Smith Guide was going to be published in a volume set along with the Renton granite guide. If you haven't seen this online guide to Vantage, it seems pretty good: New Routes at Vantage by Bill Robins
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Link to Deceptioncrags.com, for the Exit 32 and 38 books mentioned by Mr. SpecialEd.
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Reading Extreme Alpinism (and Kiss or Kill) was both funny and informative. As long as there are boundaries to what people think is possible, then there will be people pushing those boundaries. Though Twight's rage (at least the rage that live is Kiss or Kill) is comical, what will be really funny is the person who tries to push the limits beyond what Twight has set. I'm glad Twight wrote these books, because it is always interesting to hear what the Extremos are doing. And he must be somewhat accurate with his information because he is still alive.
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Was that instrument the flute? If he was the Pied Piper he'd be 'baggin all the chicks.
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Climb: Mt. Cruiser-Route 1-A Date of Climb: 2/27/2005 Trip Report: Alpinfox (Pax) and I (Porter) climbed Mt. Cruiser this past Sunday (February 27th). We had made an attempt to climb on January 28-29th, but opted out as we awoke to a snow covered rock, which had been clean and dry the previous weekend: Our first attempt was not a waste. During this first trip, we came up with an ingenious ad campaign for JetBoil stoves. One scenario involved and old couple sitting on a park bench and JetBoil Man. I'll spare you the details, but basically our financial futures are set and paved in green. Anyway, last weekend we saw a picture posted by Fairweather from his Mt. Washington climb that showed the Sawtooth range, and we could see that Mt. Cruiser was dry, so we decided to give it another go: We were able to drive past the Putvin trailhead this time, but soon after were stuck in the snow. After digging ourselves out and then getting stuck again, with some help from some Olympians, we got unstuck and turned around. We left the car at around 1pm and hiked up the road to the Mildred Lakes trailhead, and onto the lower Mildred lake by 5:30. We set up camp and hit the hay early. During the night a tiny snaffle scurried across my face and then was in my hair for a small time. We also heard a mysterious noise, which could have been an owl or maybe a cougar? We awoke to a perfect day (compare this with the picture above of our previous attempt): We left our camp at 8am and headed up to the upper lake. We decided to take the following route up: In our scramble up we came across the tracks of a big cat, which Alpinfox identified as either a creature part lion/part tiger....or a cougar (see above). We also found some excellent bouldering on the way up, as demonstrated by Alpinfox as shown here sending Tree Crack: We finally hit the snow fields and donned our crampons and headed up. The snow was consolidated, with a slushy crust. Finally we made it up to the base of the summit block and roped up. Here is Alpinfox headed up the 5.4 pitch of route 1A: We were able to make the summit in two pitches: one long one to a big platform, and one short scramble to the summit. We had 360 degree view of the Olympic mountains. Olympus: Mildred Lakes below: Alpinfox on the summit: #1 Best Belayer: ....and glissading down: We were back down at the camp in a couple of hours and made it out to the car by 6:30. The approach is definitely the hardest part to this easy rock climb, but the views were certainly rewarding. The existance of consolidated snow definitely made the traveling easier up on the ridge, and the recent sunny spell dried the rock of any snow or ice it may have had. According this this thread, there is a possiblity that Cruiser has not seen a winter season ascent before, but it would not surprise me to hear that has been done before. Thanks to Alpinfox for the ropegun duties, and thanks to Fairweather for posting the beta that helped us determine that the route was dry! Gear Notes: JetBoil Stove Extreme attitude Chocolate Halva Top Ramen 1 60m rope (with 10' of 3rd class downclimbing) alum. crampons ice axe #3 camalot (or equivalent) there are a few unnecessary bolts on the route Approach Notes: Road was drivable up to just past the Putvin trailhead. The trail in the trees was clear for the most part, but buried in snow in places.
