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olyclimber

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Everything posted by olyclimber

  1. Happy Valentines Day indeed!
  2. Is this what the future holds for us in Massachusetts? Life Without Mikey Michael J. Fox was right. California's Prop 71 will put an end to the shakes. The 27 million dollars that the biotech companies invested to convince Michael that they could stop his disease was well spent. He bought it; then, sold it to us. We should all feel really happy for him, and all the other people that are inflicted with Parkinson's disease. Michael is a brave man. And the good news is that, thanks to 71, my children's children won't have to deal with poor folks like Michael, because they won't exist. Parkinson's won't exist. Oh, and let's not forget Arnold. A big thanks to him as well. Although the majority of scientists have resigned themselves to the fact that embryonic stem cell research will never find the cure to Parkinson's disease, they do all agree that Prop 71 will put an end to it. I guess Michael didn't notice the winks and the nods going on behind his back as they convinced him that thiss is the way to save the world from such disease. Why couldn't he see what Proposition "Adolph vision" was really about? Did he ask why the 'oversight board' that was created by Prop 71 had been given three Billion dollars without having to be accountable to the taxpayers? Or why the press was specifically singled out as not being able to gain access to the future state of affairs? Did he ever wonder what "somatic cell nuclear transfer" was? It couldn't be cloning; because the bill specifically denies the use of cloning, right, Michael? Did he not want to know exactly how Prop 71 was going to eradicate Parkinson's disease? I'm sure they told him that it will also wipe out other diseases as well. Does Michael know that in the event they do not discover any cures, (as they have not done in the more than two decades of embryonic stem cell research) that at least they will have come up with hundreds of patents on cloning and discovered thousands of unique cells that will allow the world to selectively control the existence of people with Parkinson's and other diseases. I doubt they told Michael that he would have been avoided, skipped over, passed on. They didn't tell him that with the patents they get, from the knowledge they learn through the milions of lives they create to destroy, from the billions of dollars they were given from the millions of suckers they snowed: that they will be able to rid the world of homosexuals and Native American Indians and fat people and ugly people and people like John Kerry. Hey Doc Hollywood, you dont know what you have done for the world. But stop fooling yourself. Please realize that if we had realized the benefits of Prop 71 fifty years ago, chances are damn good that, for better or for worse, America would not have had "Life with Mikey" or "Family Ties" or "Back to the Future". But be assured, Michael J. Fox will get his wish; in the future there won't be a whole lot of shaking going on. Those kind of folks will be avoided. There will, however, be great opportunities for Brad Pitt to make a financial killing. When he's too old and ugly to act, he can sell his DNA for millions and we can have thousands of duplicate Brad's running around Hollywood. Maybe next time the people of California will do a little homework. There are a lot better ways to spend six billion dollars if you really care about people.
  3. Never mind that last post. I was drunk.
  4. I don't know. I've given up. I'm extending an olive branch to John. True, he is an arrogant chap, but we all have our little problems. Let the healing begin.
  5. Each and everyone of you is special. Happy Valentines Day.
  6. I think you're beginning to get the picture. Like I said, it's quantum. Ripples in the space time continuum give you a place to start with in a general sort of way.
  7. olyclimber

    '08

    Sweet, then we can re-elect Bill Clinton! Cigar anyone?
  8. Not that I want to ruin things with logic Blake, but the line indicates climber status, not any relationship between NOLS courses or days per week climbing. Also, remember that we're crunching some serious numbers with some variables I strategically omitted. This isn't rocket science here....it is way harder than that. I've got my overclocked Timex Sinclair working on it right now.
  9. To add the the confusion, the number of biners left on Girth Pillar, if you still pee the bed, and the whole IQ/SAT score variables have lifted this into the realm of quantum physics. Squid and I have contacted Stephen Hawkings and will be working with him on this one. Additionally, the time machine which I bought over the internet should be operational soon, so we'll be going back in time to consult with Einstien and Abraham Lincoln on the problem. I expect the project is going to take about 70 man months. Ahem!
  10. Gary, you forgot the lyric about gators with no snow in site.
  11. So does that mean we're on for Girth Pillar this weekend?
  12. I think that pretty much covers it.
  13. Post deleted by jon
  14. This 3-D crap is getting out of hand. Anyways, that wouldn't make my graph so linear, as the retail experience bit would be parabolic. Aesthetics are important!
  15. This thread generated a bit of controversy and confusion, so I've done some research. Attached is a graph to help you understand my findings:
  16. BAM-I-DUNYA Expedition Services, program 2005/2006 Please allow us to first introduce ourselves. Bam-I-Dunya Expedition Services is the Urumqi, Xinjiang China, based follow up organisation of former Dutch expedition service company ALPEX High Alpine Expeditions. We have 9 years of experience of organising ventures in the high mountains of Xinjiang, Tibet and the former Soviet Central Asian republics. Through the years we have more and more specialized on exploratory mountaineering expeditions in the remote areas of Central Asia and services for scientific research expeditions in the same area's. With this e mail you get an excerpt of our 2005/2005 programs so you get an idea of what we are offering. Although our ventures are mainly meant for group booking we can sometimes accomodate individuals, wanting to join up one of the preset expeditions. The seven pre planned expeditions we mention here are however only an example: In principle we are able to organise trips to any wished objective within the limits of our operation area. We can, on request, design tailor made packages for any given group size and at any preferred service level, from just simple permit and transport, to fully guided high service level expeditions. Any mountain, under condition it is outside closed military zones and not officially classified as a "holy mountain", we can design service packages for mountaineering or hiking parties. We are able to provide comlete sets of material from our Xinjiang depots, arrange for the necessary papers, provide visa support, transport, lodging and so on. Through our connections with the Xinjiang Ecological Society of the China Academy of Sciences and the Xinjiang Institute of Science and Technology, we can provide official invitations for doing research projects in West China as well as permission to export samples from China. If you are interested in any of the programs mentioned at the bottom of this message, want to have more informations, have your own projects in mind do not hesitate to contact us at Bam_I_Dunya@yahoo.com . If on the contrary you do not wish to receive any more mails from us please sent an empty message or forward this one to kunlunlists@yahoo.com and we will make sure this is the last message you ever receive from us. John, Jimmy & Johan Bam I Dunya management, Urumqi, PR of China ********************************************************************************** KINGATA TAGH Summit Elevation: 6780 Meter Where?; Western Kunlun, Near China/Tadjikstan border When?: 5 July to 30 July 2005, (Same period in 2006) Minimum number of members: 6 persons Price per person: $ 1.749,- (1.349,- Euro) GENERAL INFO ABOUT KINGATA TAGH MOUNTAIN Kingata Tagh is found in the Kingata, Sometimes called Karajira, Shan mountains which stretch from the Karakoram Highway to the Tadjikstan border. The Kingata Shan is the most Western range that geographically counts to the Kunlun chain. Until recently the area was completely unvisited by foreign tourists/climbers. This was partly due to the fact that the whole western part of the range was off limits, being a military controlled border area. In 2005 the rules will change and the road to Muji and the Tadjikstan border will be opened to civil traffic. First to make a reconnaissance in the area was a Russian party in 2001 who researched the possibilities of approaching the main peak from the North. They however found this unfeasible as the way is barred by extended and very difficult glacier terrain. We were out in the area in September 2004 and researched the Southern approach. We found that as well over the moraines of the West glacier as over those of the Southwest glacier the foot of the mountain can be reached relatively easily. Apart from the ascent of two secondaries the route on the Southwest face was reconnaitered up to an altitude of 5400 meter. Kingata is not a very easy mountain to climb, much more difficult than nearby Muztagata, but it is also not a K2 or a Kongur. Nevertheless, those wanting to join our team should be independent mountaineers with sufficient skills in iceclimbing. INTENARY 5 July: Arrival of team members in Kashgar, welcome dinner at John's cafe, stay at Seman Hotel. 6 July: Stay in Kashgar, sightseeing to Id Kay Mosque and Apak Hodja Tomb 7 July: In the morning drive by jeep to Karagilik village, in afternoon Hike up to base camp, (Pack animals for carrying the expedition gear. 8 July; Acclimatisation day at Base camp 9/10 July: Building and supplying advanced base camp at the foot of the peak 11/27 July: Period for climbing Kingata Tagh 28 July: In the morning trekking back to Karagilik, in afternoon drive by jeep to Kashgar 29 July: Celebration dinner and party in Kashgar 30 July: End of expedition INCLUDED IN SERVICE PACKAGE Mountain Permit and all other necessary paperwork. Welcome by us on Kashgar airport or train station Transport from airport/trainstation to Seman Hotel Total of 4 night's stay at Seman Hotel Breakfasts and dinners at John's Cafe on the hotel premisses Sightseeing in Kashgar Transport by 4WD jeep from Kashgar to Karagilik Transport of supplies and gear to Karagilik with Truck All food supplies for base camp Kitchen tent for base camp Mess/dinner tent for base camp 2 Person sleeping tents for base camp Kitchen utensils Cooking stoves Gas for the cooking stoves Base camp cooking services Translation services Expedition management services Liaison services Maps of the Kingata Mountain area Mountaineering Ropes High Altitude Tents Low Temperature Mountain Stoves 45 icescrews 50 carabiners 4 VHF portable radios Satelite telephone GPS compass Weather station Pack animals for transporting material back to Karagilik Transport back to Kashgar by 4WD Jeep Transport back to Kashgar of materials by truck Breakfasts and dinners at John's Cafe Celebration/farewell dinner and party Transport to airport/trainstation ******************************************************************************* AKLANGM PEAK Summit Elevation: 6978 Meter Where?; Western Kunlun, At the Western Extremity of Kongur Shan Range When?: 5 August to 30 August 2005, (Same period in 2006) Minimum number of members: 6 persons Price per person: $ 1.749,- (1.349,- Euro) GENERAL INFO ABOUT AKLANGM MOUNTAIN Aklangm is found in the Kongur Shan, the one but Westernmost range of the giant Kunlun chain. For Xinjiang standards it is a very accessible mountain, as it rises directly from the Karakoram highway, and a whole set of villages of the local semi nomadic Kyrghyz herders are found around its base. Until very recently however the peak did not get much attention from mountaineers/hikers. This is due to the nearness of very popular and equally accessible objectives as Muztagata and Kongur Tagh. Like in all popular mountaineering area's it was the highest peaks that get the first attention. It was only in the summer of 2004 that a Swiss member of one of our teams made the first ascent by way of the west Ridge. Aklangm is a very bulky, very complex mountain with a great number of possible routes on it. Most of this possible ascent ways are of considerable technical difficulty, but a few are fairly easy, the West ridge, which we intend to do on our scheduled expeditions, is probably the least difficult of them. No special technical skills are demanded of potential team members, but all who are applying to join our group should have at least some previous high altitude mountaineering experience. INTENARY 5 July: Arrival of team members in Kashgar, welcome dinner at John's cafe, stay at Seman Hotel. 6 July: Stay in Kashgar, sightseeing to Id Kay Mosque and Apak Hodja Tomb 7 July: In the morning drive by jeep to Bulungkol Dobey village, in afternoon Hike up to base camp, (Pack animals for carrying the expedition gear. 8 July; Acclimatisation day at Base camp 9/10 July: Building and supplying advanced base camp at the foot of the peak 11/27 July: Period for climbing Aklangm 28 July: In the morning trekking back to Bulungkol Dobey, in afternoon drive by jeep to Kashgar 29 July: Celebration dinner and party in Kashgar 30 July: End of expedition INCLUDED IN SERVICE PACKAGE; Mountain Permit and all other necessary paperwork. Welcome by us on Kashgar airport or train station Transport from airport/trainstation to Seman Hotel Total of 4 night's stay at Seman Hotel Breakfasts and dinners at John's Cafe on the hotel premisses Sightseeing in Kashgar Transport by 4WD jeep from Kashgar to Bulungkol Dobey Transport of supplies and gear to Bulungkol Dobey with Truck All food supplies for base camp Kitchen tent for base camp Mess/dinner tent for base camp 2 Person sleeping tents for base camp Kitchen utensils Cooking stoves Gas for the cooking stoves Base camp cooking services Translation services Expedition management services Liaison services Maps of the Kongur Shan Mountain area Mountaineering Ropes High Altitude Tents Low Temperature Mountain Stoves 10 icescrews 20 carabiners 100 meter of 6 mm Static rope 4 VHF portable radios Satelite telephone GPS compass Weather station Pack animals for transporting material back to Bulungkol Dobey Transport back to Kashgar by 4WD Jeep Transport back to Kashgar of materials by truck Breakfasts and dinners at John's Cafe Celebration/farewell dinner and party Transport to airport/trainstation ********************************************************************************* SKYANG KANGRI NORTH PEAK, First Ascent attempt Summit Elevation: 7545 Meter Where?; Central Karakoram, China/Pakistan border When?: 10 October to 10 December June 2006 Minimum number of members: 6 persons Price per person: $ 4.699,-,- (3.699,- Euro) GENARAL INFO ABOUT SKYANG KANGRI Skyang Kangri is found in the Central Karakoram mountains, just about 10 kilometer Northeast of K2. The peak is twin summited with quite a large horizontal difference between the two peaks. The South summit is exacly on the border of China and Pakistan, the Northern one is a few kilometer inside China. A japanese team succesfully climbed the South summit from Pakistan in the 1980's and as it was than thought that it was the higher one, so for many the case was settled. Modern SRTM data however show that the South summit has an elevation of 7512 and the Northern one with 7545 being 33 meter higher. The approach of Skyang Kangri is elaborate, as is the walk in from K2 base camp to the foot of the climb, this is the reason that not many have tried to climb it. Probably the first to do so were Japanese in 1995, choosing a difficult direct route in the North face and failling to climb the summit. In the dying days of our K2 expedition in early 2003, one member of our team had a go at it and reconnaitered an elaborate route, traversing the flank of a secondary peak. After having been avalanched in camp III at 6400 meter and only just surviving the attempt was cancelled. However the "gletscherwolf trail" seems a navigable way up and is for certain the technically least difficult possibility to do so. Although not a very difficult ascent, it is an unclimbed route and a very long way to go. Apart from that there are very steep pitches of snow climbing and the objective dangers are plenty and obvious. So anyone wanting to join our expedition should have considerable high altitude and snow/iceclimbing experience as well as good stamina INTENARY 10 October: Arrival of team members in Kashgar, welcome dinner at John's cafe, stay at Seman Hotel. 11 October: Stay in Kashgar, sightseeing to Id Kay Mosque and Apak Hodja Tomb 12 October: Stay in Kashgar, Last preparations, loading of truck. 13 October: Drive by jeep from Kashgar to Yecheng, Stay in local hotel 14 October: Drive by jeep to Mazardara 15 October: Acclimatisation day, camping out in the Mazardara river valley 16 -20 October: Trekking in to K2 base camp 21 October: Establishing base camp. 22-30 October; Building and supplying of Advanced Base camps I & II 31 October May - 1 December: Period for the climbing of Skyang Kangri North Peak 2-6 December: Trekking back to Mazardara 7 December: Transport by Jeep back to Yecheng 8 December: Transport back to Kashgar 9 December: Sighseeing day in Kashgar, celebration dinner and party INCLUDED IN SERVICE PACKAGE Mountain Permit and all other necessary paperwork. Welcome by us on Kashgar airport or train station Transport from airport/trainstation to Seman Hotel Three night's stay at Seman Hotel Breakfasts and dinners at John's Cafe on the hotel premisses Sightseeing in Kashgar Transport by 4WD jeep from Kashgar to Mazardara Transport of supplies and gear to Mazardara with Truck Hotel stay at Yecheng Transport of materials by camel to base camp All food supplies for base camp Kitchen tent for base camp Mess/dinner tent for base camp 2 Person sleeping tents for base camp Kitchen utensils Cooking stoves Gas for the cooking stoves Base camp cooking services Translation services Expedition management services Liaison officer services Maps of Skyang Kangri/K2 area Mountaineering Ropes High Altitude Tents Low Temperature Mountain Stoves 50 gas cans for the Mountain Stoves, (Refillable at base camp) 20 icescrews 50 carabiners 3 Mountaineering ropes 200 meter of Static ropes 4 VHF portable radios Satelite telephone GPS compass Weather station Transport of materials by camel back to Mazardara Transport back to Kashgar by 4WD Jeep Transport back to Kashgar of materials by truck 2 Night Hotel stay at Seman Hotel, Kashgar Breakfasts and dinners at John's Cafe Celebration/farewell dinner and party Transport to airport/trainstation ************************************************************************************* AKSAY CHIN: Kunlun Goddess Peak Summit Elevation: 7167 Meter Where?; West Central Kunlun, Xinjiang/Tibet border When?: 10 May to 10 July 2005, (Same period in 2006) Minimum number of members: 6 persons Price per person: $ 3.999,- (3.099,- Euro) GENERAL INFO ABOUT KUNLUN GODDESS PEAK The Aksay Chin, also called Tsjung Muztaga, is found in the Southern part of the West Central Kunlun and its highest peak, commonly referred to as Kunlun Goddess, but also called Aksay Chin I, is found in the Southern parts of this huge range. This mountain range is extremely remote and difficult to access, the reason why it has been visited only a few times. The main peak was first climbed by a Japanese party in 1985 and a second successfull ascent was made in 1996, also by Japenese. A few more parties have visited it, but without success. The main peak, which overtowers everything else in the extremely glaciated range overtowers all other summits with more than 200 meter. Although the hike from Base camp to advanced base camp at its foot is a very difficult one, the peak itself is not a very technical one to climb. Experience with prolonged times at high altitude seem more inportant than high grade ice climbing techniques. DATA OF AKSAY CHIN RANGE Other Names: Tsjung Muztaga / Southwest Kunlun / Kunlun Goddess Range Country: China Location: Border area of Tibet and Xinjiang Autonomous regions Total Mountain Area: 4045 Square Kilometer, (53x76,5 Kilometer) Number of 6000+ Peaks: 458 Number of Major Glaciers: 45 Total Number of Glaciers: 850 Glaciated Area: 3300 Square Kilometer Highest Peak: Kunlun Goddess, 7167 Meter Main Lakes: Lic Lake INTENARY 10 May: Arrival of team members in Kashgar, welcome dinner at John's cafe, stay at Seman Hotel. 11 May: Stay in Kashgar, sightseeing to Id Kay Mosque and Apak Hodja Tomb 12 May: Stay in Kashgar, Last preparations, loading of truck. 13 May: Drive by Jeep from Kashgar over G219 (Tibet) road to Kudi village, stay at local hostel 14 May: Drive to Dahongliutan settlement in Kunlun mountains, stay at local hostel 15 May: Drive to Aksay Chin Lake, camp at east shores. 16 May: Drive to Base camp, building up of camp 17-19 May: Acclimatisation days, reconnaissance of way to advanced base camp 20 May - 4 July: Period for climbing Kunlun Goddess Peak 5 July: Packing up Base camp 6 July: Drive from Base camp to Dahongliutan 7 July: From Dahongliutan to Yecheng, stay at local hotel 8 July; Back to Kashgar, Stay at Seman Hotel 9 July: Celebration dinner and party 10 July: End of expedition INCLUDED IN SERVICE PACKAGE Mountain Permit and all other necessary paperwork. Welcome by us on Kashgar airport or train station Transport from airport/trainstation to Seman Hotel Three night's stay at Seman Hotel Breakfasts and dinners at John's Cafe on the hotel premisses Sightseeing in Kashgar Transport by 4WD jeep from Kashgar to base camp Transport of supplies and gear to Base Camp with 6WD Truck Night stay at Kudi Night stay at Dahongliutan All food supplies for base camp Kitchen tent for base camp Mess/dinner tent for base camp 2 Person sleeping tents for base camp Kitchen utensils Cooking stoves Gas for the cooking stoves Base camp cooking services Translation services Expedition management services Maps of the Aksay Chin Mountaineering Ropes High Altitude Tents Low Temperature Mountain Stoves 40 icescrews 75 carabiners 4 VHF portable radios Satelite telephone GPS compass Weather station Transport back to Kashgar by 4WD Jeep Transport back to Kashgar of materials by truck Nightstay at Dahongliutan Hotel stay at Yecheng 2 Night Hotel stay at Seman Hotel, Kashgar Breakfasts and dinners at John's Cafe Celebration/farewell dinner and party Transport to airport/trainstation *********************************************************************************** K2, (QOGORI) Northwest Ridge Summit Elevation: 8611 Meter Where?; Central Karakoram, China/Pakistan border When?: 10 April to 30 June 2006 Minimum number of members: 6 persons Price per person: $ 5.999,- (4.649,- Euro) GENERAL INFO ABOUT K2-QOGORI K2, or Qogori in the local language is found in the central Karakoram on the border of China and Pakistan. With its great elevation of 8611 meter it is the second highest mountain in the world. Unlike with most 8000+ peaks, there is no relatively easy way up the peak and very good technical skills are needed for those trying to get up it. The first route that was climbed on the mountain was the Abruzzi ridge on its Southern approaches, from the Pakistan side. This route was pioneered, unsuccesfully, as early as 1909 by an Italian team. It took several tries until it was finally summited by two members of an italian team in 1954 China remained closed for foreign mountaineers for a long time after the 1949 revolution, so it was only in the 1980's that the first tries on its north side were mounted. The first to be succesfull were Japanes in 1983. Since then the climb on the Northwest ridge has been repeated succesfully a few times and a variation of it was opened by Americans. The climbing of the Northwest ridge might be even a little harder than that of the Abruzzi ridge, but for that it is also somewhat safer than the highly avalanche dangerous South. We are talking one of the hardest climbs in the Asian mountains over here, and we must make clear from the beginning that this is not a fully guided trip, and all those applying to join this expedition should be independent mountaineers with sufficient experience and technical skills. INTENARY 10 April: Arrival of team members in Kashgar, welcome dinner at John's cafe, stay at Seman Hotel. 11 April: Stay in Kashgar, sightseeing to Id Kay Mosque and Apak Hodja Tomb 12 April: Stay in Kashgar, Last preparations, loading of truck. 13 April: Drive by jeep from Kashgar to Yecheng, Stay in local hotel 14 April: Drive by jeep to Mazardara 15 April: Acclimatisation day, camping out in the Mazardara river valley 16 -20 April: Trekking in to K2 base camp 21 April: Establishing base camp. 22-30 April; Building and supplying of Advanced Base camps I & II 1 May - 20 June: Period for the climbing of the Northwest Ridge 21-25 June: Trekking back to Mazardara 26 June: Transport by Jeep back to Yecheng 27 June: Transport back to Kashgar 28 June: Sighseeing day in Kashgar, Stay at Seman Hotel 29 June: Celebration dinner and party in Kashgar 30 June: End of expedition INCLUDED IN SERVICE PACKAGE Mountain Permit and all other necessary paperwork. Welcome by us on Kashgar airport or train station Transport from airport/trainstation to Seman Hotel Three night's stay at Seman Hotel Breakfasts and dinners at John's Cafe on the hotel premisses Sightseeing in Kashgar Transport by 4WD jeep from Kashgar to Mazardara Transport of supplies and gear to Mazardara with Truck Hotel stay at Yecheng Transport of materials by camel to base camp All food supplies for base camp Kitchen tent for base camp Mess/dinner tent for base camp 2 Person sleeping tents for base camp Kitchen utensils Cooking stoves Gas for the cooking stoves Base camp cooking services Translation services Expedition management services Liaison officer services Maps of K2 area Mountaineering Ropes High Altitude Tents Low Temperature Mountain Stoves 80 gas cans for the Mountain Stoves, (Refillable at base camp) 80 icescrews 200 carabiners 3 Mountaineering ropes 1500 meter of Static ropes 4 VHF portable radios Satelite telephone GPS compass Weather station Transport of materials by camel back to Mazardara Transport back to Kashgar by 4WD Jeep Transport back to Kashgar of materials by truck Hotel stay at Yecheng 2 Night Hotel stay at Seman Hotel, Kashgar Breakfasts and dinners at John's Cafe Celebration/farewell dinner and party Transport to airport/trainstation *********************************************************************************** MUZTAGATA Normal Route Summit Elevation: 7546 Meter Where?; Western Kunlun, Xinjiang, China When?: 5 July to 30 July 2005, (same period in 2006) Minimum number of members: 4 persons Price per person: $ 1.399,- (1.079,- Euro) GENERAL INFO ABOUT MUZTAGATA MOUNTAIN Muztagata is situated in the extreme west of the Kunlun mountain range and rises up unfar from the famed Karakoram Highway, about halfway in between Kashgar and Tash Kurgan. As Muztagat is a stand alone peak and its summit is almost 4000 meter higher than the surrounding valleys, it makes for a most stupendous sight. Muztagata is also a very bulky and complex mountain. The first tries to scale it were already made around the turn of the 19th and 20th century, but without much success. In the late 40's, Eric Shipton and Bill Tilman came to within 50 vertical meters of the summit, but it was not until 1956 that a combined Soviet/Chinese party scaled the summit succesfully. After China opened up for foreign climbers in 1980 more climbers started to come to it, at first slowly, but by 1990 it had surpassed Peak Lenin as the most visited 7000 meter peak on the planet: By now the number of summiteers is over 1500 and at least 50 expeditions visit it every summer, more in a good year. What makes Muztagata so attractive is that it is the "easiest" 7500+ peak on earth. The ascent of the West flank knows no technical difficulties and angles are hardly exceeding 30 degrees. Still it must not be underestimated: Its elevation is very great, the way to its summit long and exhausting and there are crevasses and avalanches on its icy slopes. ALPEX has been to this peak with many groups since 1999 and we do not set very high demands on the technical skills and previous experiences of those applying to join our expeditions to it: "Hard Mountain Hikers" with experience in glacier terrain and perfect physical health do stand a chance on this peak. INTENARY; 5 July: Arrival of team members in Kashgar, welcome dinner at John's cafe, stay at Seman Hotel. 6 July: Stay in Kashgar, sightseeing to Id Kay Mosque and Apak Hodja Tomb 7 July: Transport by private bus from Kahgar to Subashi over Karakoram Highway, Camping in the meadows near the village 8 July: 3-4 hour trekking from Subashi to Base camp at 4450 meter 9 July; Acclimatisation day at base camp 10-27 July: Period for climbing Muztagata 28 July: Trekking down to Subashi, transport by private bus to Kashgar, Stay at Seman Hotel 29 July: Celebration dinner and party 30 July: End of expedition INCLUDED IN SERVICE PACKAGE Mountain Permit and all other necessary paperwork. Welcome by us on Kashgar airport or train station Transport from airport/trainstation to Seman Hotel Total of 4 night's stay at Seman Hotel, 2 at start of expedition, 2 at the end Breakfasts and dinners at John's Cafe on the hotel premisses Sightseeing in Kashgar Transport by private bus from Kashgar to Subashi Transport of supplies and gear to Subashi with Truck Transport of materials by camel to base camp All food supplies for base camp Kitchen tent for base camp Mess/dinner tent for base camp 2 Person sleeping tents for base camp Kitchen utensils Cooking stoves Gas for the cooking stoves Base camp cooking services Translation services Expedition management services Liaison officer services Maps of Muztagata mountain Mountaineering Ropes High Altitude Tents Low Temperature Mountain Stoves 30 gas cans for the Mountain Stoves, (Refillable at base camp) 4 VHF portable radios Satelite telephone GPS compass Weather station Transport of materials by camel back to Subashi Transport back to Kashgar by private bus Transport back to Kashgar of materials by truck Breakfasts and dinners at John's Cafe Celebration/farewell dinner and party Transport to airport/trainstation ************************************************************************************ PUKKOMANNA SHAN/BUROG CO Summit Elevation highest peak: 6909 Meter Where?; Centre of Northern Tibet/Qinghai plateau When?: 20 Januari to 20 March 2006 Minimum number of members: 6 persons Price per person: $ 6.999,- (5.389,- Euro) GENERAL INFO ABOUT PUKKOMANNA SHAN The Pukkomanna Shan is one of the worlds most remote mountain ranges and very difficult to reach. It sits tucked away deep in the centre of the unique Northern Tibet/Qinghai plateau, hundreds of kilometers away from the nearest human habitation. The peaks of the range tower up to almost 7000 meter whilst the surrounding plains are at an average elevation of 5200 meter. Given the forbidding nature of the plateau and the great distance to it from the nearest settlements, combined with the immense problems to overcome in the roadless, vegetationless access ways, have led to that the range has been visited only a few times before. All previous successfull visits approached the massive from the Southeast and only exploration of the Eastern chain of the Pukkomanna has so far been done. The mountains of the Western chain, as well as the mysterious, very deep lakes in between, remain unexplored for the moment. At least two tries to reach the area from the North have been mounted so far, but without the desired success. In 2003 a large party from the Chinese buro of minerals and Geology tried. But after losing most of their vehicles in the immense mudfields surrounding the mountains and taking two casualties among the personal they gave up, a mere 30 kilometer from the giant delta of the West Pukkomanna River. In spring 2004 a mixed scientific and mountaineering party of our company tried in cooperation with the Xinjiang Institute of Science and Technology, but also this attempt was ill fated. Previous experiences have led us to the conclusion that only a new try in the depths of winter will stand a change as the mudfields will be frozen. INTENARY; 20 Januari: Arrival of team in Urumqi 21/22 Januari: Stay in Urumq, last preparations 23 Januari: Transport by 4WD jeeps to Korla 24 Januari: Transport by 4WD jeeps to Qiemo 25 Januari: Transport by 4WD jeeps ot Tula 26 Januari: Resting day at Tula 27 Januari to 2 Februari: Navigating the way to base camp at the lake shore 3 Februari to 7 March: Period for Research/Climbing/Hiking 8 March to 18 March: Navigating the way back to Urumqi 19 March: Debriefing and celebration party 20 March: End of expedition INCLUDED IN SERVICE PACKAGE; Mountaineering/Research Permits and all other necessary paperwork. Welcome by us on Urumqi airport or train station Transport from airport/trainstation to Bao Di Hotel Three night's stay at Bao Di Hotel Breakfasts and dinners at various restaurants in You Hao district Sightseeing in Urumqi. Transport by 4WD jeep from Urumqi to Base camp Transport of supplies and gear to Base camp with 6WD military Truck Hotel stay at Korla Hotel stay at Qiemo Lodging at Tula All food supplies for base camp Kitchen tent for base camp Mess/dinner tent for base camp 2 Person sleeping tents for base camp Kitchen utensils Cooking stoves Gas for the cooking stoves Base camp cooking services Cooking service at base camp Translation services Expedition management services Liaison officer services Maps of Pukkomanna Shan area Mountaineering Ropes High Altitude Tents Low Temperature Mountain Stoves 120 gas cans for the Mountain Stoves, (Refillable at base camp) 80 icescrews 200 carabiners 3 Mountaineering ropes 300 meter Static ropes 6 VHF portable radios Satelite telephone GPS compass Weather station Transport back to Urumqi by 4WD Jeep Transport back to Urumqi of materials by truck Lodging at Tula Hotel stay in Qiemo Hotel stay in Korla 2 Night Hotel stay at Bao Di hotel, Urumqi Breakfasts and dinners at various places in You Hao district Celebration/farewell dinner and party Transport to airport/trainstation
  17. Da-dah-dat-dat-da!
  18. We are the world.
  19. Ladies love it when you brag about "scooping them up", don't they? It is so alpha male.
  20. Define regularly. And where are you alpine climbing? If it isn't more than 2 times a week, you best tuck your tail between your legs and run on home. WE'VE GOT STANDARDS HERE!
  21. these are rather pedestrian foods to be carrying. might I suggest a cocktail of 10 supplements before during and after the climb. bonus points if their names are long, obscure, and difficult to pronounce, and if mark twight has mentioned them. Well, I've already been put in my place once today. I'm not a real climber. Please refer to me as "OlyPoseur" when you're talking to me. But I'm not from Olympia, dammit!
  22. I've never worked in a gear store, but I have a low REI number. Does that count?
  23. That depends, how do you plan to use your certificate? Is your resume printed on eVENT or Schoeller? Alpinfox, perhaps you'd like to join me on my quest to become a "Real Climber". I plan on climbing three days a week and living off of nothing but freeze dried icecream and gu packets. If I can get this time machine I bought off the internet to work, I plan on travelling back in time so that I can complete 5 NOLSe courses before I turn 19.
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