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Everything posted by olyclimber
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notable ascent City Park sees new free ascent?
olyclimber replied to willstrickland's topic in Rock Climbing Forum
wow. impressive...did he work on it for a while, or was it an onsite? -
It wouldn't be an FA Hmmmm...I wonder...what sort of pictures are in this book?
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perhaps you're driving by one of those lasik centers.
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"sue age" I like it. Sue everybody!
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It would seem that this is a classic case of someone repeatedly pissing off the land manager which results in changes in law that further restrict all of us. I don't know that there were not others that helped encourage the land manager to update the rules, but the provisions by which the law is enforced allow the land manager (in this case, Joss?) to update/set the rules. Here is Title 36 Code of Federal Regulations (CFR), Part 1, Section 1.5(a)(1) that is referred to. ยง 1.5 Closures and public use limits. (a) Consistent with applicable legislation and Federal administrative policies, and based upon a determination that such action is necessary for the maintenance of public health and safety, protection of environmental or scenic values, protection of natural or cultural resources, aid to scientific research, implementation of management responsibilities, equitable allocation and use of facilities, or the avoidance of conflict among visitor use activities, the superintendent may: (1) Establish, for all or a portion of a park area, a reasonable schedule of visiting hours, impose public use limits, or close all or a portion of a park area to all public use or to a specific use or activity.
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the last dude to light a fire up there paid for it... http://query.nytimes.com/gst/fullpage.html?res=9B07E7DB153DF931A35751C0A9649C8B63
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right, then perhaps the language on the website is brand new, post-The Dean Potter Incident ....they should call them the Dean Potter Rules in his honor. There goes my plan for slacking in the Arches this fall!!
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I believe it was (closed permanently). With the language posted on the Arches NPS website (assuming that it wasn't updated post-this incident), it is clearly against da Toolz Rulz. "The intent of our [regulations] is that all named arches are closed to climbing," Joss said. "If the compendium is found not to be sufficient, we will work with our solicitor posthaste to put a closure on Delicate Arch immediately." Sounds like she is just saying that if the language above is not clear enough (seems to be to me), then they will probably update it...undoubtedly with consequences listed if you break da Toolz Rulz.
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Of course by "climbing" they must mean climbing upward with a rope , they certainly can't mean highball bouldering and then decending with a rope whilst being filmed in hi-def for IMMEDIATE RELEASE.
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Damn, you're right will...there it is. Seems pretty unambigious to me: http://www.nps.gov/arch/climb.htm Climbing The rock at Arches offers excellent climbing opportunities, despite its sandy nature. Most climbing routes in the park require advanced techniques. Permits are not required, unless the trip involves an overnight stay in the backcountry. It the responsibility of all climbers to know and obey park regulations and route closures. Rock climbing guides to Arches and the surrounding area are available at the visitor center and through the bookstore. Regulations 1. Use of motorized drills is prohibited. 2. Climbing is prohibited on any arch identified on current USGS 7.5 minute topographical maps; on Balanced Rock year-round; on Bubo from January 1st to June 30th; on Industrial Disease on the Devil Dog Spire from January 1st to June 30th. 3. The use of chalk for climbing must be of a color which blends with the native rock. 4. Climbers are encouraged to employ clean-climbing ethics, leave dull-colored webbing when recovery is impossible, and access climbing routes via established trails, slickrock or sandy washes.
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It says he didnt beleive it was illegal.. Then doesnt joss go one to say if there is a misunderstanig in the way the law is written they will change it.. sounds like it was all a big misunderstanding.. true, probably not "prosecutable" illegal... but it will be shortly. was potter blissfully unaware that his actions might have repercussions that might screw us all in relation to climbing access?
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I wonder how many cameras Abbey would have had there to film the climb? My guess is that if he were to climb it (and it was illegal then) he would have made it more of a challenge....like climbing it chalkless, sit start, by the moonlight. Really, beyond the repercussions this may have on climbing access in Arches, doing an illegal climb, filming it, and publicizing it is just stupid...unless you're above the law. Reminds me of a TR on this board
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This is confusing. Park regulations, apparently, already prohibit climbing on named Arches. So what would the point be in "working with [their] solicitor" to close the Arches permanently? What the fuck could a lawyer do about it anyway? A lawyer can help them change the language to make it clear that climbing is not allowed and punishable by fines/jail time.
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UNCAGE THE ARCH!!!!
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It definitely would seem that his actions here don't fit well with Patagucci's "lighten the tread of the human ecological footprint" given the soft nature of that rock and the popularity/icon status of delicate arch. Like it was put there just for him to climb, and that his climbing it and publicizing the climb wouldn't result in a hoard wanting to do the same thing.
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ya, i'm not able to pull it off too well, am i? lowfat whipped cream?
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It would suck if you were climbing it and it decided to fall over on you You would forever be known as the person who destroyed the Delicate Arch! My guess is that the concern is that it would get a huge amount of traffic (it is a very popular place/icon), and there would be some polished routes (more likely the rock would crumble away than become polished, actually), and the next thing you know bolts (or someone falling off and dying) blah blah blah...anyway that red rock isn't the most stable stuff. you could probably climb that thing directly with icetools. (I am not recommending this!)
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well, my only requirement is that there is a coffee house right near the shop so that I can order a double half caff low whip frappacino and shop for shoes online while the grease monkeys fix my lexus
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I don't think it is an issue anymore...they are shutting down climbing to all named arches immediately: "The intent of our [regulations] is that all named arches are closed to climbing," Joss said. "If the compendium is found not to be sufficient, we will work with our solicitor posthaste to put a closure on Delicate Arch immediately." I seem to recall reading about a climb or two on some much lesser known, but named arches put up by some pretty well known climbers.
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I wonder what he used for an anchor to lower off with.
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....which makes your getaway up our way a teensy bit puzzling. Hundred inches a year, documented, just like clockwork. That's almost two inches a week. Once we had a drought and only got 70......... Green though, elegantly green...thousands and thousands of shades of green. it is because archenemy is verdant, in the blooming sense of the word.
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Working on a plan to bring loads of jumbo fist-sized cams, big bros, #11 hexes and maybe a couple of RP's down to Smith so my little guy can work on Monkey Face. Last weekend of May, three day weekend.