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Rad

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Everything posted by Rad

  1. Pipe? The right side of the Gun Show has the following routes: A very soft 10c that trends left up a ramp, back right, and straight up. A reachy 11c that is quite good that finishes at the same anchor as the 10. An awesome 11b (Tea Time)(FA Jens K) just right of said 11c. An 11cish route I put up last fall called Match Stick that starts just right of Tea Time. Traverse right, use long draw on first bolt, crux past the final bolt. Awesome movement and rock quality. Way down to the right (descend, traverse) is the start of a 10a pitch that can be linked with a 10d pitch. Leland told me these are called Web Slinger. This route is outstanding! So is there something else now?
  2. Thanks Blake. That's just what I was looking for. Yes, I meant EAST of RP.
  3. Thanks Tom. I will backpack down to Stehekin via Rainbow Lake w kids in 2 days, then I hike solo back up to RP in a single day to retrieve the car while my wife takes the ferry out w kids. So they only hike one way.
  4. Actually, we're planning to backpack to Stehekin with the kids from Rainy Pass, but I figured Goode would get your attention. Why not start West of Rainy Pass proper? Google maps shows a pullout on Hwy 20 that you could park, travel a few hundred yards x-country, and intersect the PCT. This would cut off almost 2 miles of trail. Surely I'm not the first person to think of this. Any reason not to do it? It would mean the difference between a 13 mile first day or an 11 mile first day. Thx
  5. What a gorgeous climb and approach. Thanks for bringing back good memories.
  6. Awesome Blake. Does this mean you've now joined the Dark Side by placing bolts?
  7. Great adventure and post Max
  8. You're going to damage your innards if you fall on static gear. If your goal is to rope solo then look up some ways to do that. There are some experienced folks on this board who can help. If your goal is to connect yourself to an anchor or fixed line then just use the rope. KISS
  9. I rapped off the W Ridge of Inspiration w a single 60m rope 10 years ago. Perhaps more recent visitors can comment.
  10. Nice! Clean Break is awesome. The upper part is longer than one thinks. We got off route at the very end and that cost us some time.
  11. Looks like a lovely ride.
  12. I know folks that biked in on a Friday to do the route.
  13. I bought the Prana Zion and plan to get the OR Voodoo. OR said if I bring in my old pants they'll just give me the new ones - now that's customer service. Side note: the REI garage is gone. Sad. I got lots of good, cheap, lightly used stuff there over the years. Hopefully it will come back.
  14. Thx. Reviews suggest they don't hold up well to abrasion. What's your experience?
  15. Under Pressure is an excellent new few four star route at the Truck Town crag at the Far Side that's mid-11 where you can easily walk to the anchor at the top. That one's a bit tricky to find, though the new guide should help, so send me a pm and I'll take you there sometime. Another is Small Arms Fire, 10c thin face, at Shangri-La. See Bladerunner FA TR for info.
  16. There are surprisingly few. Ellie's Sweet Kiss at the Far Side is one.
  17. Film it. Upload to Youtube. Let social media do the rest. Fame and fortune and flatulating fat chicks will soon be yours.
  18. I also use WD40 when needed. It may be obvious, but the key is to use the very narrow straw so you can shoot the lubricant exactly where you need it and keep it away from where you don't (e.g. slings).
  19. Word from trusted source is the OR Voodoo is good.
  20. I had a pair of OR pants from 2009 that were amazing: Lightweight, non-restrictive yet fitting, simple, nearly indestructible, and comfortable. I got another pair of OR pants (Ferrosi?) to around 2012 and the fabric was crap and was torn on brush within a year. The original pants outlasted them until this spring. Now I need new ones. I need pants that are light weight but nearly indestructible as I do a lot of off trail scrambling, climbing, bushwhacking approaches etc. And I climb rock in them. Indestructible but light. I want a thigh pocket I can easily access when leading, no belt, full length (no man-pris). I prefer tan and lightweight as I wear them in hot environments and can always wear a layer underneath if it's cold. I don't care if I pay $80 or $150 if I'm getting a high quality product. What do you recommend? Thanks! R
  21. Impressive. Thanks for the TR, photos, and links.
  22. Might want to re-think this as it could lead to conflict. What if the leader places the cam fine, but it walks and/or the second botches cleaning it? Or the second drops it? Maybe just have an agreement to split the cost of any gear lost/left/dropped and if someone wants to take full responsibility they can.
  23. The facts that the pack was still there, other things were not missing, and this happened in the middle of a very active climbing area would suggest that it was climbers who stole the gear, not prowling meth heads. Very sorry for your loss. One would hope that climbers would help watch over each others' gear not rifle through it for booty.
  24. Yeah, he usually hikes up twice a day to take pics. Must be on vacation or something.
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