Rad

I know folks that biked in on a Friday to do the route.

I bought the Prana Zion and plan to get the OR Voodoo. OR said if I bring in my old pants they'll just give me the new ones - now that's customer service. Side note: the REI garage is gone. Sad. I got lots of good, cheap, lightly used stuff there over the years. Hopefully it will come back.

Thx. Reviews suggest they don't hold up well to abrasion. What's your experience?

Under Pressure is an excellent new few four star route at the Truck Town crag at the Far Side that's mid-11 where you can easily walk to the anchor at the top. That one's a bit tricky to find, though the new guide should help, so send me a pm and I'll take you there sometime. Another is Small Arms Fire, 10c thin face, at Shangri-La. See Bladerunner FA TR for info.

There are surprisingly few. Ellie's Sweet Kiss at the Far Side is one.

Film it. Upload to Youtube. Let social media do the rest. Fame and fortune and flatulating fat chicks will soon be yours.

I also use WD40 when needed. It may be obvious, but the key is to use the very narrow straw so you can shoot the lubricant exactly where you need it and keep it away from where you don't (e.g. slings).

Word from trusted source is the OR Voodoo is good.

Great pics and report.

I had a pair of OR pants from 2009 that were amazing: Lightweight, non-restrictive yet fitting, simple, nearly indestructible, and comfortable. I got another pair of OR pants (Ferrosi?) to around 2012 and the fabric was crap and was torn on brush within a year. The original pants outlasted them until this spring. Now I need new ones. I need pants that are light weight but nearly indestructible as I do a lot of off trail scrambling, climbing, bushwhacking approaches etc. And I climb rock in them. Indestructible but light. I want a thigh pocket I can easily access when leading, no belt, full length (no man-pris). I prefer tan and lightweight as I wear them in hot environments and can always wear a layer underneath if it's cold. I don't care if I pay $80 or $150 if I'm getting a high quality product. What do you recommend? Thanks! R

Impressive. Thanks for the TR, photos, and links.

Might want to re-think this as it could lead to conflict. What if the leader places the cam fine, but it walks and/or the second botches cleaning it? Or the second drops it? Maybe just have an agreement to split the cost of any gear lost/left/dropped and if someone wants to take full responsibility they can.

The facts that the pack was still there, other things were not missing, and this happened in the middle of a very active climbing area would suggest that it was climbers who stole the gear, not prowling meth heads. Very sorry for your loss. One would hope that climbers would help watch over each others' gear not rifle through it for booty.

Yeah, he usually hikes up twice a day to take pics. Must be on vacation or something.

Any recent pics? Comments on this year's snowpack in the area? Thanks.

You'll find lots of opinions about the Mtneers and other orgs. Ultimately, you need to take responsibility for your own safety in the mountains no matter who else is on your trip. Veteran climbers can make mistakes and should welcome someone checking their knots, systems, weather decisions, avalanche assessments, etc. If you trust someone else completely and aren't thinking for yourself you're setting yourself up for trouble down the road. If you find an organization where inexperienced climbers are actively or subtly discouraged from questioning the decisions of the "elders" you should run away as fast as you can. Learn to think for yourself and assess risk and manage it for you and your team. And you can find some solid partners on this site. Have fun!

Yikes. C2 fracture can turn you into a quadriplegic for life if it's bad enough. Climbing is serious business. Please check the system and your partners, no matter how much experience they have, every single time you tie into the rope. It just takes one mistake to change your life and those of everyone in your circle. I'm glad it didn't turn out worse and hope he gains a full recovery.

Thanks Lucky! A few winters ago two large trees fell across the main trail at the Far Side. People went around them creating more erosion than ever until someone brought a buddy w a chainsaw to cut up the trees and clear the trail...

Joe, Some people provided advice. Others gave you a hard time. Absorb the former and ignore the latter, just like you would on any other anonymous internet forum. And when you find yourself in a hole, like now, stop digging. Have fun! Rad ps. And post a TR when you get back. Welcome to CC.COM!

A fun exercise is to have find a spot with cracks at ground level and have him place every piece on the rack. This doesn't even have to be a climbing area. Then go around with him to each one and evaluate the placements. This way you get to place lots of gear and get immediate feedback on it without the time sink of rope management, belaying, and climbing.

Having the good judgment to turn around when conditions aren't right might be more important on your resume than successful ascents you've listed. It may save your life one day. Good luck.

Shit. RIP. Cue Ivan...

Bump. Blade Runner and Skullduggery are still unrepeated. Anyone want a catch? Kurt is working on a new SnoQ guide with these and many, many other routes. A few new lines have gone up since this TR: Under Pressure: 11b. Truck Town Cave. May, 2014. Side Step: 10c. Truck Town Cave. May, 2014. Matchstick: 11c/d. Right of Tea Time at the Gun Show. September, 2013. Franklin's Tower: 12a. Clean rock on a small crag above the Gun Show. September, 2013. Snaggletooth: 11b. Left of Third Stone from the Sun. July, 2013. Rail Road: 10c. Right of Third Stone from the Sun. August, 2013. ...

Touching the Void in the modern era